dajogejr

No...I didn't know you had to debur the rims for the valve stem. My spindle mounts are ok, BBII's are ok... So you have to move the spacer/roll tube to put the axle in a carrier...ok... What's the third?

Explain please....and are these items you got from me?

PM Me what you're looking for.

Peter.. When you're ready to buy, PM me. I will beat all the pricing on the BOSS website considerably... DJ

39's all the way since you drag 50% of the time... Hex is right...if you're running a long distance, billet float bowls and a dual feed fuel outlet is probably a good call... I can hook you up with the billet bowls, hit me up if you need a set.

let me talk to my buddy, see if wants another project bike...give me a day or two to get back with you (Obviously, sell it if you can...don't wait on me...please) Have you put it on Craigslist yet? Best place to sell!!!

Shave .020 off your head, install a timing plate and set it at 4...then get the dynoport 2 into 1 pipe. Bike will have more low end than you know what to do with...

Post pictures please and where in MI are you? Also..do you have a title?

Sorry to hear it Steve...but I certainly understand. Life has to come first....toys and fun later... Top notch guy to deal with...sorry to see you get out of the sport, but I understand... You ever want to get back into it...hit me up. I'll hook you up on anything you need....axle to axle, spark plug to drain plug. Good luck to ya homie.

Nope....not in my experience.

This is very true...35 HP stock to 120 is just a little bit of a jump...LOL. 2nd is weakest in the tranny, and since a LOT of people launch in it...it gets exposed that much more... While I don't feel the need to run one in mine, if I ran pavement alot I would definitely get one, there isn't the forgiveness like sand or dirt.

Actually D...2nd is the weakest gear in the tranny...that's why they make a billet 2nd.

Bike stops running abruptly....

So...in other words, it would be a safe bet... I was giving the key the benefit of the doubt...surely someone has had a plate fail....

Averages...that's it. Some people may have good luck with them, the average is against them. I would be willing to put money that 100 keys shear or fail for every one timing plate....if not 200. And the key is not adjustable... My bike likes to run on 9 degrees of timing. They don't make a key for that. But loosen 3 bolts and my plate accommodates that. What if his bike likes 3 degrees...or 6?

I got about 30 time slips from a few weeks ago that guarantees he's not talkin about me.... :yelrotflmao:

Here was my advice...and this is after you spouted off about help and replied being a dick yourself (I got the email) but then you deleted the thread. "So...here's my advice. get the correct tool that threads into the inside of the flywheel, don't use a 3 jaw puller, it will bend the flywheel. Pullers are 10 bucks....make sure you clean the threads on the flywheel, they will be rusty and dirty." Being new...you just have to realize...we get this kinda question all time. That...and boost bottle questions, then is a cub cylinder trail friendly. So some of us that have been on the board have their blood boil a little easy when we get the same question over and over... Moreso because there are a lot of gimmicks out there (Spark plug lock tool, boost bottle, roost boost, etc.)...and our fellow brothers have gotten ripped off a time or two wasting money on this shit. So...if I came off brash, my fault...and apologies. Seriously, welcome to the site. We're all pretty opinionated riders, some old and some new...but we are here for your best interest... MEAT is still an ass clown.... Search for both of our names and compare who helps who...and who acts like a little school girl on political debates, religion, etc....

And a Shearer pipe only making 200 RPM more than a Toomey? Ah...no. Here's a 4 mil cub cylinder with T5 pipes and stock carbs. Now I fully understand that bigger carbs would increase the RPM on this motor (my motor back in 06, before I got shearers and 35 PWK)....but you can't tell me T5s on a stock cylinder even with good porting are gonna pull that far...(the broken line is with a bad flywheel, magnets busted up, btw.)

Yeah ass clown, here we go again... I'm the only one that told him not to do it? Right? go stick your head back up your ass. I also offered help how to do it shortly afterwards, didn't I? Pull your head out of your ass briefly to read the whole thread... You don't have to have a high HP engine to shear a shit degree key anymore than you have to have a high HP engine to separate a stock crank. I don't know what you bone to pick with me is, nor do I care... Take my advice or leave it....but I'm quite sure I've helped more people on here than you ever have...I didn't get thousands of my posts from arguing with jack asses like you over politics and religion. I got mine from helping and handing out information.... Seriously, STFU.

If a dealer told me to check the valves on a banshee when ordering a head gasket, I would've calmly and collectively told them "TO SHUT THE FUCK UP BECAUSE YOU DON"T HAVE A GOD DAMNED CLUE, ASS HOLE"....then told them to have a nice day and hung up. Shit on me once, shame on you...shit on my twice, shame on me.

Snop does not have the extensive motor work you do....Damian.... I run 16/45, run out of gear at the 300 ft mark launching in 2nd....a 13 tooth on mine would make the first 3 gears usesless...LOL. Just different setups... Don't forget, D....they are in a different kind of sand than we ride, too...that's a BIG part of things.

Amazing... Guys spend all this money on your bikes and cheap out on a plate vs. a key... go figure.

No rev limiter. Porting, exhaust pipes, intakes, carbs, ignition, compression...etc., all play a part on how far the engine will rev and how far it will pull, but....no rev limiter. Check the electrical first....then check the jetting.

You've read enough of these threads...but still...oh hell, never mind. You're not using it...good for you. The Chariot Billet timing plate is a better quality product, however...it's 15 bucks more. I'll be picking one up before too long...

Yes,...but it is the same uniform thickness top to bottom. All the degree key does is offset that, giving it an easier shear point.