dajogejr

Bingo... I actually used my old Orings from older pipes because the new ones from Shearer were being a little difficult... Dab of RTV, Grease, whatever.... A 200 or so grit wet/dry sandpaper on the exhaust flange if absolutely necessary...you're only removing .001 or so...

I would only add to that Jared finally has a bike that runs right and is put together right....Firehead's old bike....since he couldn't tune, put one together or figure it out himself. Give it time, he'll fuck that up too...and sell it to get someone else's already put together bike that's proven. Hell, you could probably fuck up my good running bike...and I've let a dozen guys ride it at the track and dunes without a single issue. These clowns truly don't have a clue.

It's a 5mm longer rod, not 4. If I were you, figure out a budget (double it...lol)... Get a used 4mm stroke, 5mm long rod crank. You'll need crank, pistons, all gaskets and have your cylinders re-ported to match the crank...as well as a cut head or domes. You are looking at roughly 1K or so to do that all. If that is in your budget...go for it. Long rods alone really aren't worth it on a stock crank, you won't notice it. If it's not in your budget, get more porting done on your cylinders.

There's not any organization to it. Last year, the sled guys setup cones and pulled a permit. They coned of 660 feet. Sleds ran on one strip, we ran on the other. The majority of us run methanol, so it's a good idea to make sure your oil will stay suspended (mixed) with fuel in cold temps. Chizels or picks, the numbers and patterns vary. But most guys take a flat, turf tire and shave knobs off, put the chisels or picks in with big washers as backers (so they don't fold over) and run a tube. It's fun...arm drop stuff... And you have to gear different for the longer runs (we normally do 300 feet in MI)...but it's something to pass the time and hang with buds till race season...

If you backload it excessively over 8,000 RPM, it will wear the shift forks sooner.

Yep... http://www.w-c-r.com/contact%20us.htm

That is true only of the 1-6 override for a banshee at this time. WCR is working on a dunable 1-6...but it is pricey, and he's still ironing out the kinks. Other cuts, 1-5, 2-5 and 1-4 allow for downshifting while moving...but with the clutch pulled in.

You are depriving some village of it's idiot. Please return home, Pronto... Beam him up Mr. Scotty.... :biggrin: :biggrin:

Half right... The old style overrides, or...non-dunable, it was a bad idea to backload the tranny a lot, in other words, let off the gas without the clutch pulled in. Newer style Dunables are not like that. You can ride them like a normal tranny, but full power upshifts without the clutch. You shouldn't download them excessively...but, you'll just wear the shift forks sooner....

I use an SRP which is made by Chariot. I wish I had his new design...mine is 4 years old, his new one is much nicer.

It is a flywheel key that lines up the crank and the flywheel. where it lines up the flywheel is offset so it hits the magnets a little earlier than it would if it was a straight key. If you looked at an advanced timing key from the front or back...it would look like an L type shape, instead of flat on both sides. Instead of a standard key, flat on both sides.

On my stocker with T5s and no porting, less than 1000 ft ASL, I ran 340 mains and 27.5 pilots. I had both K&N Pods and a 1 into 2 Toomey foam filter...the jetting was the same for both. I rode it that way in trails and dunes with those filters.

I did not know that....he doesn't advertise them on his site... Lectrons are GREAT carbs. However....with the different needles available to them, it can be very confusing. The key is getting the right needle. Dennis Packard and Fast By Gast are the only two Lectron Distributors/dealers that I know of. They are without a doubt one of the best mods I've done to my bike, period. Do some reading on them so you understand how they work. Once you get the correct needle (which Dennis Packard can not only tell you, but he'll probably get you 95% close to the length it needs to be) they are a breeze to tune in. No jets to play with, just the needle (called metering rod) and power jet to tune it. They are not as finicky as Kehin or Mikuni carbs. I go from 70 to 90 degree summer riding to ice riding and barely have to adjust the carbs....on METHANOL... Call Dennis Packard. get his throttle cable, talk to him about your needle...he'll get you straightened out. As said, he is one helluva nice guy. http://www.packardracing.com/ You may have to grind a little metal out of the inside of the throttle housing if it's a stock thumb throttle for the lever to fully clear. I've had an aftermarket throttle for some time, so it's a non-issue.

You go leaner on the jetting for higher elevation...not richer. Less air means more fuel....so if it was spot on at 300 - 500 ft, it was probably a little rich at 1100 feet. Ride it again at 300 to 500 feet, see if it still idles rough and pops at WOT. Most of the time...it's either reeds, carbs out of sync or an electrical issue.

Different Head. I know Dave Noss makes one... White Knuckle Might... They're an odd bird, and I don't think the super cubs took off real, real well. I still don't think they're worth the cost of a new head and boring the cases vs. a well tuned cub.

I think it's a 16 to 18 hour drive from metro detroit to Little Sahara....

Get a speaker wire and brake clean for the pilots. A lot of time, carb cleaner and compressed air alone won't do it. Those pilot jet holes are TINY.....

Start stripping that thing down. Weight is 100% key ...I honestly think if you didn't touch the motor at all, you could strip that bike down from the pics and gain 1/2 a second, no BS. Drag parts are light, flat out. My bike with 75 to 125 lb lighter rider...yes rider, goes .2 to .3 faster in 300 foot. Roughly 1/4 the race you guys do in the 1/4 mile.... Welcome to the club buddy....

To be honest... Anyone in the game would know those are not stock cylinders. 5mm higher deck height (since the sleeve is flush with the deck) is noticeable...and something about the exhaust side doesn't look right, like more is added (no doubt for a triple exhaust port)... And with a 535cc motor...anyone you pull a half track on with a true 350 motor is going to know....you simply can't make that up. Sleeper and Cheater run hand in hand....if heads up classes in an organized race with money on the line were in play, I would call you out. For dune and play racing with your bros....knock 'em dead. If you tried to run that in my class at Planet Sand, I'd definately call you out.....LOL.

Sure is a nice LSR outlaw chassis you have there... Ask Loco or NYUK to move it to member auctions.

To be 100% honest, I don't think you'll gain much HP going from a 66 to say...68mm. Again, if you welded the transfers for more room...sure. But, you don't want that look. I've seen a 10mm setup you couldn't even tell from the outside. The sleeve of the 10mm I've seen goes WAY up into the head...but, you can't tell from the outside. You're at or near the limit of stockers...the HP per dollar spent going forwards isn't very enticing to be honest.... Are you already on methanol, lockup, override?

We ice race here...so, out on the ice with no trees or anything to block the wind...it gets butt ass cold!! But whatcha gonna do? :beer:

Gears are cut, dog are removed and the remaining dogs are ramp cut at an angle. You take a 3/4 gear and chop it in half, add it to the tranny. Cut and weld the drum, and the shift star...depending on what config you have (1-5, 2-5, nuetral down, etc.) can be ground, welded, etc. Some configurations remove 6th gear, some block them off.... It all depends on what you're looking for. And I can beat Whitaker's pricing.... His prices are with your good core. PM me if you're interested.... As far as is it worth it for your bike....here's the question you have to answer. How does your bike shift under full power, from one gear to the next? If it shifts fine...then leave it. Unless you drag race a lot, dune race....I don't think you need it. On a bolt on stocker bike...you don't need it. When you start pushing the power with agressive porting or drag race a lot, it is a MUST. Once you start pushing the power, a stronger clutch and/or lockup is a good idea too. To be honest, and don't take this the wrong way....if you have to ask or have a stockish bike, probably not worth it. If you plan on building a bigger, faster motor and will have it torn down....well, that's the time to do it.

Ok...there are two different scenarios... and forgive me if I'm stating the obvious. A stroked crank vs. a long rod are two totally separate things. A long rod...is...well, a longer than stock 110mm rod. A stroker crank actually moves the big pin or lower end rod journal out from the center, creating a longer travel from BDC to TDC. If you're trying to make a long rod motor into a fake stroker it won't work. The piston isn't traveling any further BDC to TDC...that's what a stroker crank is for. The long rod lessens the angle/stress on the crank. A stroker crank actually moves the piston up and down further. So...if what you mean is a 4mm stroker crank using a cut head...absolutely. You can do this one of three ways on a stock cylinder. Cut the stock head for the increased 2mm at TDC (2 at TDC and 2 at BDC is a 4mm stroke crank) Get an aftermarket head with domes cut for a stroker Get a spacer plate. With any of those three options, the cylinder should be ported to accomodate the longer stroke. You're wasting money IMO without getting the porting changed. The spacer plate is the quick and cheap way...I'm not a fan of it because it's one more place to leak, as well as it lets someone know you're running a stroker crank. When you use a long rod, stock or increased stroke crank, you run a piston with the wrist pin closer to the top of the piston.... Hope this makes sense, if not...I'll try to explain better.

Here's the problem.... When you get bigger sleeves in the stockers, you are very limited to how much the transfers can flow.... 68mm is as big as I'd go in stockers. Vitos has a new line of cylinders that "look" very stock...only a close inspection will give it away... However, they need to be ported, just like a sleeved OEM cylinder would have to be. I would think about a bigger stroke crank faster than I would a bigger bore. I would look into who can build you a 10mm stroker with a sleeve and stock head. The sleeve actually runs up into the head...and the head is cut/recessed accordingly. Very few people can get it to work and work well...but that is a better option. If not...a 4 mil with stock cylinders is very doable...as well as getting the head cut, you will NOT be able to tell from looking on the outside either. Edit ** Kevin beat me to it...great minds think alike...LOL