dajogejr

I agree on a stock cylinder 4 mil. They are very tough mils. Plus...if you decide to make it a drag bike later, you've got good ground work laid... Unless you ride up in Oregon...I'd stay away from the cubs for trails as well.

No...unless you know of a lot of red headed black dudes...

That just means since we went 0-16....we should turn around to like 13-3 next year.... Good thing the Cheifs any none of the other bottom teams are in the playoffs, Miami would really have an early playoff exit then... :down:

Very interesting... When I ran my plate and Dyna...I ran 7 or 8 on the plate and curve 3 on my dyna as well, 4 mil cub on gas. It seemed to give the best off the line acceleration...

A stick in the hands of professional drivers I'd agree. Otherwise...Joe smith off the street isn't gonna cut a better shift than a guy with the same car and an auto tranny.

I sent Jeff my Lectrons to play with on his bike...but to be honest, he really didn't spend a lot of time with them, and he really wanted to dyno tune them to feel comfortable with them. Too bad you don't run methanol Tyler, I'd send you my set if I get down time for you to try again. Other than the straight screws on top, I think they're made of pretty good quality (One of these days, I'll replace those with stainless allens) But I take mine off every time after the track cause I brake clean my carbs inside and out after a race/event. Even though I purge the shit out of them...I still clean them before the next time i'm gonna ride...after having a PWK needle stick on me from methanol residue...I'm anal about that stuff.

Fastener guy kits are individually labeled too! http://www.plasticservices.com/MoldingAcces/threadlube.htm

Shot in the total dark... Crank bearing going bad?

He has a custom ash tray... LOL.

IMO...don't waste your money on VForce reeds until you get it ported...stock cages work fine with aftermarket reeds. You can do more and get a better bang for your buck then VF3s...it'll be faster rather than feel faster. Since you've ridden a bone stock shee (I'm assuming you mean stock pipes) you'll find just about any pipe you get will let it rev better and further as well as pull longer vs. stock pipes. It is literally night and day difference...

Nice write up...I wish I had the time to go through all you did. Are you using the out of the box curves on the dyna, or did you program it at all? I'd be curious as to what kind of numbers you can come up with using each of the stock curves...then a custom programmed curve to your bike. Are you relying on a timing plate as well, or just the dyna for advance? I know this is a stupid question based on how and where you ride, but have you messed with a lightened flywheel at all either?

Funny you mention that...are you guys adjusting that without pushing on it? (the arm) I always push the arm by hand...adjust it till it just separates the clutch...then back it down to align just outside the arrows lining up. I learned a long time ago don't go by the clutch lever feel...lots more leverage there.

Actually...what I meant is your motor and setup doesn't make the kind of power to pull those pipes. A lesser pipe will do you better... In conjunction with a gearing change...

Yep...looking for you right now. Get your wallet out. Bah...can't find them. PM or wait for NYUK to respond. There is a completely new setup a guy sells on ebay. Billet everything, I think it's a dual piston. Comes with a caliper, mount and their own rotor...it is bad ass. Being a drag race guy with ONLY rear brakes, I am very, very tempted to pick one up myself. Ok...got this from NYUK. http://www.mindbendermotorsports.com/defau...PKV=BBSYFZ350|0

pfft...Dan @ Patriot... LOL J/K. Dan is good peeps for sure. never talked to dyno Dave...

Not sure who your builder is Snop, but I do know Kim @ K&T is very good with the Mikunis. Also a top notch guy to talk to.

I would go to one person, and one person only. Dennis Packard. Helluva nice guy, and he is the whip. He is also in this sport. Lectron only has two distributors that I know of....and listed on their site. Packard and Fast by Gast. I do not know if FBG does off road racing ATVS/bikes. They very well might. I do know Packard does. Loco....to your point of PWKs being easier to tune, I would answer this. WAY more people have PWKs, for my reasons listed above. They are a very good carb, no doubt. With a bigger user base, there is more info on them out there. Also more parts out there, more people have used and tuned them. I have to be honest....I was given my Lectrons from a member on the forums. Late last year..a member saw I posted I've always wanted to use Lectrons, they're just very, VERY cost prohibitive since I can get a set of PWKs for less than 1/4 the price (used...) He sent them to me. They were setup for a 10 mil twister running the 1/8 mile...so I had to adjust the metering rod just a hair for my 10 mil cub. And by that...I mean leaning out the needle a mm or two. He would not take a dime for the carbs...next day air'd them to me packaged like fine china. I am very, very thankful for that. I would've never spent the 700 or so for these carbs new (billet bowls, etc.) After working with my PWKs most of 2007, and Lectrons end of 07 and all of 2008...they are a better carb, easier to tune, more responsive, they run cleaner and crisper. Just about anyone that has rode my bike says the same thing...for an alky bike, it is crisp and clean. Snop...sorry to hijack your thread homie....

Small bore or big bore makes no difference in your case. Shearers are and always have been a top end pipe, and they are designed for motors that breathe. I'm sure others will back me up on that. I COMPLETELY 100% understand not tearing apart a motor with 10 hours on it....I also understand not being made of money. However...you asked the question, and the pipes play into your solution. I don't think you have enough motor to pull 6th strongly in sand...the pipes aren't helping, only hurting in my opinion. T5, T6, FMF or other pipes built for a stock motor/stock port would do better for you. Promise...

That is wrong on so many levels...... On the advertising levels... Not only is FAST a site sponsor, he's a site member and frequently contributes. Since I am on the site once in a while... I would say none of the builders you mentioned are on the site..or if they are, don't contribute very much.... I think that's a true & fair statement. I would also venture to say most of (NOT ALL) of the builders you mentioned specialize in drag or race motors, and I'll maintain what I've always said about HQ... not a lot of drag racers, a LOT of duners or trail riders...especially when compared to other sites that have a lot more of the products and packages offered by the builders/shops you've listed. So...based on that, I think that's why you see more FAST/PASSION stuff...I think you'll see more HJR stuff soon as well, for Kevin contributes to the site too....

Nope...drop them in. I've never seen proof that windowing a piston does anything notable on the track or performance otherwise. I have seen a few broken skirts. I would drop them in. Don't touch a thing. A loose bore in addition to a weakened skirt could very well be an issue... Process of elimination.

I would disagree with that statement, having owned stock mikunis, PWKs (Gas and Methanol) and Lectrons (Gas and methanol) I think Lectrons are the easiest to tune. Here's why people are tuned off Lectrons: They don't understand how they work PRICE!!!!! And not many retailers out there. Said it before, absolute key is to get the correct Needle/metering rod. And you can call Packard or Fast By Gast to get the correct one for your application. Once you have that...tuning is a breeze. No more jets to buy, needles, pilot jets. You simply adjust the metering rod and open/close the PJ as you need to. From going to 80 degree summer days to cold, cold ice racing, my adjustments hardly changed on methanol. I think anyone who tunes methanol will agree it can be more finicky to tune than gas. And best yet...all adjustments are done from the top. Either you remove 3 screws to adjust the metering rod or you open/close the external power jet. And... By simply changing the metering rod you can switch from gas to alky and back. You can't ruin the carb by drilling dumps and mains, there's nothing to drill. Also, by changing the needle and seat...you can go from gravity feed to fuel pump and back. Any one of the few guys I've turned on to Lectrons love them. And as a matter of fact...two more are jumping on the bandwagon... They are 100% expensive....I completely understand that. But having used both PWKs, PJs (briefly) and Lectrons....I'll never go back.

Just goes to show you....you can go out and "BUY" all the talent you want...doesn't mean the team will Gel or produce a good record... I have to laugh...Roy Crybaby Williams wanted to be traded from the Lions, and he was barely even used in Dallas. WTF was he thinking.... When the 'fins get sold, I can't wait to see who Parcells goes to next... William Ford Sr. is not smart enough to hire him...but if it were my team, I would literally give Parcells a blank check...and tell him to fill it in.

My next move would be measuring the depth of the cylinders...I honestly think someone decked them. I know this doesn't explain why it was fine with stock rods and stock pistons...but unless we're missing info from you or your info is incorrect (don't take that the wrong way...just saying) the cylinder itself seems suspect.

Still waiting to hear how I'm bashing his work? More lies? More BS? That's what I thought...

Fastnerguy is who I used too. When I built my bike two years ago...my buddy and I had 3 bikes total to build. two banshees and a YFZ. He cut me a little break on price. Not a ton, but Alloy Boltz could give a shit less.... MAKE SURE you use thread sealer or any other kind of thread lube for the stainless kits. Stainless bolts are notorious for galling from the smallest burr, nick or imperfection. If you're gonna powder coat parts or a frame...run a quick tap through the holes before putting a stainless bolt through just to be sure. I learned the hard way on this one... A while back...there was a thread on using the stainless bolts on the motor itself (case halves). Some didn't trust them, etc. Just a few weekends ago...I finally tore my motor down to the bare cases (freshening up, porting, etc.), the stainless case bolts held up just fine. LOTS of abuse and time on this drag motor...not a single issue. Just an FYI.