dajogejr

If he's chroming plastic and it's holding up...go for it.

Headlights? We don't need no stinkin' headlights. But I forgot: Tyson stock frame with headlight brackets removed mod. 81.4% tread left on rear paddles. How do you measure wear on front smoothie tires???

They don't sell "magic racing" pistons. They're either wiseco or Vito's.

Flush it and run it.

Magic racing is 20 minutes from me, they sell Wiseco and Vito's pistons.

Hmmm...I know I'm forgetting something..... :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

I'm gonna work on a flat out retarded signature...

110 MPH on a 16/42 gearing with what looks to be a 22 inch tall paddle. IF this guy has enough motor, in the physical world we all occupy it might do mid 90s. In deep sand..doubtful. Some guys don't get it...oh well.

Or Divorce Court.... :yelrotflmao:

I'd like to see more pics of that crank. I had the top of a piston let go on me...I pulled the cylinders off, flushed the bottom end out with gas/oil (20:1) 4-5 times until no more metal came out. Put used pistons back in...and still run that crank. I'm talking hundreds of passes on a drag motor bike...not a single issue. As long as the bearings are tight, flush them real good....run it. oh...and figure out why it smoked in the first place, fix that. Once a crank is trued and welded correctly once, they're a real bear to split and you risk splitting a web.

Sorry...this topic has been beaten to death. I'm staying clear of this one....

Rob from RDZ should sell and carry 35PWKs. Since it's his porting on the cubs, I'd just ask him. PJs are good carbs, but IMO the PWKs are easier to jet and tune.

polished front bumper, 5PSI air in the rear tires, 6PSI in the front, custom seat foam, 110 octane/93 octane mix, +4 timing....chrome....

It's Friday, I'm on my soap box....and venting. Am I the only one that is tired of looking at FULL SCREEN size signature pics....as in I have to scroll a whole page just to get PAST someone's signature pic?

Yes...but once you start putting big bore sleeves in stock cylinders, you start running out of transfer room that was small to begin with. A larger piston is only one of the cake ingredients...

that bike should run and fire with 7 on the plate and a stock CDI. Let me scan your post again...hiccup....later... LOL.

Yep...sure will. Measure them up first, tell me how many mm it is from the tip of the needle to the base of the slide...go from there.

If they are considerable off, yes...just like traditional carbs out of sync. I usually get mine within .05 to .10 mm from each other.... A digital mic is an absolute must when dealing with this kinda stuff. You don't need a machinist quality mic, a 30 dollar tool will be fine for what you need. I would start by leaning out the needles more...before you worry about the power jet....so...lengthen them and even them out w/ the mic.

before you go any further, get a micrometer. A cheap digital one from Harbor Freight is all you'll need. You have to make sure the metering rods are the same length..that could be a problem right there. Adjustable powerjets are just a different, and better style in my opinoin. The pill style that you have have a pilot jet in them, you increase the fuel flow by putting in a bigger/smaller power jet. Some carbs have both (dual power jets) If you want, someone could probably remove the one you have an install an adjustable one. That's not going to help your loading up off the bottom though, that's all metering rod.

I use adjustable powerjet on my Lectrons, but I can tell you this from experience. You need to not only have the correct needle, but it needs to be adjusted close before you worry about the power jet. Call Dennis Packard. He is the Lectron Guru. Ask him what needles you should be running, he can probably even tell you what length to pre-set them at. Did you measure the needles, what are they at?

I think 4-2 are alky needles.... Have you tried to lean the metering rods? Have you measured to make sure both metering rods are the same length? Get some calipers and measure the length of each rod from the base of the slide to the tip of the needle. Use a digital mic, please....tape measure ain't gonna cut it... If they're the same, the slides are in sync, lengthen each rod by 1 full turn each, then go for a ride. You have the flat side of the needle facing the motor right? It has to. Here are some sites that can help you.... http://www.lectronfuelsystems.com/rod_adjustment.htm http://www.lectronfuelsystems.com/rod_chart.htm http://www.fastbygast.com/Catagories/Produ...0it%20works.asp

blewbyu's family owns a metal polishing shop. He does nice work, more than fair on pricing...and is an honest guy. Here's some before and after of an aluminum drag axle and other parts. After

Good old Pink Panther corning house insulation is all we use....and it's a LOT cheaper, and possibly you already have some laying around the house...

Very nice lowbuck....glad you're taking care of biz and this is a helluva big deal to be in sand sports mag. Nice work to all who have put forth money, parts and/or their time....

Sure as hell did.... Must be some Miami Crack heads that need to sell their bikes for dope money....LOL.... All that guy is doing is selling them for cost. He probably buys in bulk to get the dealer pricing, makes a few bucks selling items, then gets rid of the last of it at cost to move it off his shelf. A lot of people in this economy are doing just that....selling at dealer cost just to move product off the shelf.