ssanddemon

Whoever said you can't weld the cases is a nitwit- half the older shees out there have welded cases from chain breakage or crash damage. JB works really well IF you can get the metal really clean before applying. If you are in a hurry or otherwise don't want to get into the motor, you can scrape and grind away the old JB and apply some more. Of course the best way to do this on a lower case is to pull the motor and flip it over. Otherwise oil is going to dribble out into the crack which is probably why it is leaking now. For all the work involved, you might as well tear the motor down and get it welded and be done with it.

And the chrome kicks much ass over the Toomeys; 3 or 4 times as thick.

The PTs are the $hit! Lots, and I mean LOTS more bottom, still pull about the same on top as the TR6s did. Basically felt like I gained 10 HP due to the better bottom and mid power.

I got a chance to ride my buddies new 700 craptor for an hour or so yesterday at Winchester here in Oregon. Let me say this: my buddy is pissed. He thought it would be at least a little faster than the 450s, but they were walking all over him; even the total stockers. I wasn't much impressed with the power although the EFI sure makes it run nice. Lots of torque but not much at all on top, crappy suspension compared to the 450s, and very tall and top heavy. It strikes me as a fat man's bike. Other guys I was there with had honda and yama 450s, a couple of them with pipes, cams, etc. None could come close to my shee, not even in the same league; though I have a few more bux into mine than them. I will say that the 450s are a lot of fun and I am thinking about having one to switch onto when my arms get sore from my shee. Edit: fergot to mention that my other shee is pretty basic; piped with Fattys, Noss with 21s, and single K&N. Seemed to run about the same on the top end as the piped 450s, so a bit faster than the 700. With the same basic tire setup, we were all getting stuck in about the same places (boggy wet sand this weekend). Needless to say, that bike got put away after one ride and I switched back to the built shee and ruled again.

Depends on the type of riding you do. Woods doesn't require a lot of WOT time so the pipes don't get that hot. Duning (especially in the steeps) will heat those pipes up even if your carbs are just right.

Check out Home Depot or Lowes etc. for a plastic welding kit. That will make a good premanent fix. Hot glue would probably do it too if you can get it clean and scuffed up enuff.

Thanks for the responses, all. Pipes just showed up, gonna tear it up at Winchester tomorrow! chronicwatson you have a pm.

Won an ebay bid for a really nice looking set of Paul Turner pipes to replace my crappy TR-6s before they rust off the bike (show chrome, my ass). I know they are supposed to be a good low to mid pipe, just wondering if anyone has compared them to T-5s, FMF Fatties, or some other mainstream pipe I may have ridden.

Same work as clutch replacement: remove side cover and clutch hub, then remove the cushions as you get to them, between the fibers and steels. Then back together again.

Personally, I would run a lesser grade of oil (like Yamalube) at like 32 or 40:1 for the first couple of tanks. Synth. will likely be too slick to promote good break-in.

Yep. Where are you looking to buy it?

Whew, that's gonna be a lot of compression- something like 180-190, But depending on the rechamber, that number goes out the window. Not too big a deal to install it and check compression; just going to take a head gasket, pretty cheap. Personally I like mine the way it is at .035- I can run 92 oct. for playriding with the kids or race gas and tear $hit up. Going big comp. like that is gonna work the hell out of the crank and bearings and you are gonna have to run half-and-half at a minimum.

I believe most aftermarket clutches call for those rubber cushions to get pitched. They are there to soften up the clutch engagement which is not really a good thing.

Brake bleeding on bikes can be a real pain in the a$$. This is due to the small size of the fittings and brake fluid reservoir- there isn't much fluid weight to push out air, and the tiny openings don't let gravity push much fluid. A little trick I heard about is to zip-tie a rubber glove around the top of the brake reservoir. Cut off the end of one of the fingers and blow it up like a balloon. Hold it shut while inflated and crack the bleeders. Guaranteed fluid flow, pressure bleeding like this just blows all the air out. I guess you would want to keep a good eye on the fluid level in the rezzie so as not to let it run dry; a pain when using this method. But it beats having to buy a spendy pressure bleeding setup when everything else fails.

Heavy; Uses cheap steel not chromoly; Uses the crappy Yamaha carrier; Good luck with warranty when you break it; You get what you pay for.

I like my twist, but I'd never let a newbie ride with one. Even experienced riders have gotten hurt with em.

Easy: V-force! Edit; you should still make sure there is plenty of gas getting to the carb!

Well if you are doing a comp test because of a dead hole, don't bother warming the bike up- if you don't get at least 100 psi, the cyl won't even fire. Anything less than 110 is on the train to wornoutsville. Warm cylinders typically read 5-10 psi more, and are more accurate- hot is the natural state of the engine and you want to measure the engine as it is when being run. By the same token, You want the throttles open to get max air into the cylinders. A proceedure is only good if it follows certain rules, and throttle open is a given on any comp test- otherwise you are testing compression relative to your idle stop settings, which are gonna be different on any bike.

Running lean will make it rev to the moon without throttle as well. Got gas going to the carbs?

Yep, do it hot. Throttle wide open, ign switch off and kick it till it maxes out.

The prob with the cranks is that they are a mass production item- some are gonna be stronger at the splines than others. Personally, I didn't want a weak/bad part on my bike so I pulled mine and had it welded before doing many mods at all; it only cost like $100 bux for welding and gaskets. But there are LOTS of guys running unwelded cranks on fairly strong motors and I haven't heard of many coming apart. It's really a judgment call.

Paddlemasters! They are really heavy (and cheap) with very thick paddles; built for sand, snow and other mixed crap. I have a set for mine and I use them in really crappy conditions to save the Scats for the good stuff.

You can remove the spring from the thumber assy. and cut 2 coils off on each of the carb slide springs. This will still allow the throttle to return normally but will lessen throttle stiffness by about half. And yes, extensions (or better yet, the Cascade lever) help a lot.

I have no interest in what a guy does with his bike at all. You guys who want to baby a new motor, do it. I will say this, I am 35 and have had many new bikes and a few new cars. My break-in is good warmups, hard throttle and lots of oil changes. And no problems. Ever. I was a car mechanic for 6 years and have been a heavy equipment mechanic for the last 9; got college degree and everything. The last performance motor I built was a 460 ford for my jetboat, hp estimate of 725 na hp from the max pump rpm, just as acurrate as a dyno. Over $12k in parts and machine work. Had a misfire late last summer and popped a head gasket; when I pulled the head, the crosshatches were polished down at the top of piston travel, maybe half a thou of wear. And this was after about 70 hrs of run time, the vast majority over 5k rpm. Same with my shee- cracked cases to weld crank and do some porting, decided to put in wisecos while I was at it. Didn't have to do a damn thing to the jugs, just refresh the crosshatch to wear in the new rings-And I had revved the snot out of her from day 1. All I am trying to say is that I have seen enough to know what works; and seating the rings properly is the way to go for max engine power and longevity.

The "no synth" thing is for tranny oil, the clutch hates that stuff. I use John Deere tractor oil, works great. Lots of guys using Bel Ray Gearsaver or the like, lots of others use ATF. This sez to me that gear oil is not a real picky thing with these bikes. I use Benol for the mix oil in mine, but I should've switched after I did the top end and ported it last time around- leaves shitty deposits in the exhaust ports. My buddy uses honda HP-4 synthetic and is real happy with it. We didn't find any deposits on his exhaust ports at all last time it was open.