fastbanshee8

Your pilots seem too big. If there is no motor work, and just a few bolt on parts, try some 27.5 pilots.

NO!

That is a great lever, with the bearing. I've had it for at least 5 years, and I'm running 6 HD springs. The pull, with a good clutch cable is easier than the pull on a completely stock clutch.

The Kevorkian, or Dr. Death. lol

I have never heard of them, but I was able to find this info. http://www.macdizzy.com/update10.html http://www.mossbargerracing.com/flow.htm

Is the jetting the same? Are the slides set to the same height, and are the air mixture screws adjusted the same?

You don't seem to understand, that you are too the point with your motor, and "bolt on" parts, that adding anything else is going to take away from your bottom end. Bigger carbs, and in-frame pipes will usually lead to a loss of bottom end power. You cannot have everything, and you seem to have a problem understanding that. Trail riding, and drag racing are at two different ends of the spectrum. If you want to do both, buy another bike, and set it up for drag only. You are at the cross roads with your banshee, and you can't seem to realize that you either stop, go left, for trail riding, or go right, for drag racing. It's that simple, and you cannot do it all with one bike. Understand that?

If your compression is 180, and it's a stock unwelded crank, then chances are, your crank is coming apart.

A few bags of Quik-crete would work better, because the added weight will help keep the front end down.

The answer to all 4 of your questions is yes.

For the most part, pipes with silencers will lose HP, if you take them off, because the pipes were designed to work best with the silencers on. A Banshee needs some back pressure. OOF's without silencers have stingers on them, or at least all of them that I've ever saw are that way.

Replace the stud, and nut. It's that simple.

That statement is pure speculation, and personal preference. I used to run FMF Fatties, and I beat a lot of bikes with Toomey's on them, so the pipe manufacturer isn't all that matters. It depends a lot, on the supporting mods.

27.5 pilots, and 280, or 290 mains.

Start with the same jetting as the smaller carbs. You're better off being rich to start with, and jet down.

Are they 34mm flatslides?

I've had good results with these. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/81/257/994/1764/8634/ITP-.190-T-9-Pro-Series-Wheel

See if this helps you out. http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html

27.5 pilots, and 1.5 turns open, on the air mixture screws.

Are the plugs wet? Are the pilot jets clogged? How many turns open, are the air mixture screws?

You're better off safe, than sorry. If you are questioning the ball joint, is it worth running it, and risking life, and/or limb?

The only way to replace the ball joints, is to buy different a-arms, if they are stock a-arms.

You can pull, and install the seals, without much trouble. Put a screw into the old seal, grab the screw with pliers, and pull it out. Find the right sized deep well socket, and drive the new seal in.

Yes, the shift shaft seal can be leaking that badly. You might want to check the countershaft sprocket seal, and make sure it's not leaking, also.