RNBRAD

The Trinity exhaust is exceptional. The pipe is absolutely a work of art with a fit and finish second to none and I do mean second to none!!!!. No more cheesy mid-pipe clamps, no cheap rivets, all stainless and billet mounting hardware. Everything is double o-ring sealed instead of the typical single o-rings. No more rust or peeling, and stronger than your typical steel pipes. Performance wise, I know they flat out RIP on a ported motor and the sound is awesome. You won't hear the popcorn popper ping sound in the expansion chambers like you will with steel pipes. I can't say enough about this pipe!!!!!!!!! Sheesh Trinity needs to send me some advertising money for this.

All my douglas rims have been polished inside and out. Here's a set of C-series I snagged a pic of today. These are barnd new rims, mine have had a season of duning on them and haven't hit them with any wheel are are still as shiny as the ITP's. These look real good. Only polished outside though.

Why don't you guys look into the cool flex hose or FlexiKool stuff that is basically a cooling fin the entire length of both hoses. It just replaces your stock rad hose. Stuff is amazing. Here's my thread on it. LINK

I guess you haven't seen these. These are douglas black labels. These look like chrome, you can see a perfect reflection of the hub and nut. It really doesn't get any better of a shine than this, and if there is a "WAY" better, I want to see it. Here's the inside of the front rim, you can compare it to the chrome of the spindles and the a-arms. I've only seen the C-series polished on the outside only.

Best way is to use a straight angle air diegrinder with a 4'' cotton wheel and some mother billet polish.

I don't know what douglas rims you've been looking at but I guarantee you the C-series are not any shinier than the douglas. If they were I would have a set.

Hey Scott, Iceman72 PM'd me a weak or so ago wanting to trade a 2004 model for my shee. I believe it's pretty loaded up from what I remember. Might PM this guy and see if he may be interested in a trade still. Always worth a try.

For a 2 stroke, the plug is a little lean if anything. Not saying that you checked it correctly but that's what it reads. If this is a 4 stroke plug, it's perfect.

What's Bigwill have to say? Chime in here buddy, you should help get to the bottom of this if this sandrat guy won't. Is he still your friend? Total BS, pisses me off to no end.

Mobil1 15w-50

No question about it, take that head off and see what's up. Don't crank on it anymore or you may ruin your head/domes.

Not too many scientist frequenting this forum testing motors or testing motors period for that matter. Builders and tuners do that and it doesn't take hundreds of dyno's with each mod to see and confirm a difference. The results should be the same assuming all variables are exact no matter how many times you do it.

I would recommend the cpi's for dune riding, especially if you plan on dragging. They will offer a little more top end performance over the T5's. The T5's will trail a tad better, but increase your compression and advance your timing about 4 degree's and this should help you maintain the low end. I would do this with either pipe.

Well I've never heard of a K&N filter that fits around the stock plastic cage for the stock filter. Doesn't mean there isn't one. I would not, can't stress the NOT enough. I would not use the stock filter clamp system, your just gambling with engine failure. You need to get the pro-flo intake system that has the billet or even the one with the poly ring that mounts inside the air box. Your filter will then clamp to this ring using a hose clamp system. Don't ride it untill it is done correctly!!!!!!

I'd rather just buy one done. Can't imagine the hours of work involved, though I'm sure Stan will enlighten us on what it will take and hopefully make it easier if we choose to do so.

What type of riding do you do mostly?

Agreed!! Or you can fork out the money for a sidewinder. I run the DID x-ring and it's a great chain.

Totally killer work no doubt. I definitely admire those that can do it, people don't realize what it takes to do that kind of work. My airbrush work looks like a blind guy try to paint graffiti.

Also dip the steel wool in a little mothers polish, this helps remove burnt stuff even better.

Is it a new chain and what brand? I cheaper quality chain will need a good tightening at minimum of a couple times within just a few hours of riding time.

Led, I've always said interests come and go and if you opt for the bike you will soon want another shee. Though trading it in now may seem practical, in the long run it will cost more, especially if and when you decide to replace it. You have too much money in your shee and I doubt the stealership will give you a dime edgewise. I'm sure that you will come to your senses when they tell you what they will give you on a trade. If you are going to do it, best option is to sell it outright to someone who can appreciate your time and money spent. Good luck in your decision.

Magic is only second to rockymountain. I've bought tons of stuff through them. Great place.

No it won't hurt as long as you don't remove too much material with sanding. Though I doubt you would be able to remove much. Keep the sanding light. Polished intakes are really useless and they need to have a certain rough texture. If you want to polish something with a little benefit, polish the exhaust port. This helps with cooling effciency more than anything.

Prayers inlcuded here. Keep us informed.

Hopefully the person pc'ing your stuff knows how to do aluminum. I wouldn't want a fractured rim on a sportsbike while hitting triple digits. A good powder coater will know the proper temperature and cooling sequence to maintain strength. Here's a snippet from a reputable powder coater taken from this website. http://my.execpc.com/~davewrit/Powder.html Found your article most enlightening. A metallurgist friend told me a few years ago that things like aluminum wheel spindles should not be powder coated. He explained that aluminum billet material (6061-T6 ?) changed crystal structure at a critical temperature around 410 degrees F (as I recall). The thrust was that the heating step would adversely affect the strength of the material. Non-structural components would be OK, but not something that "holds the spokes on". The metallurgist is correct. Products like wheel billets, scuba tanks, etc. can be powder coated, but only with powders which cure below peak metal temperature of 300 degrees F. The magic temperature is about 275F. The crystalline realignment at 400 degrees F causes the previous ductile aluminum to become brittle. Imagine the catastrophe when an 80 cu. ft. scuba tank explodes under 3000 psi pressure after an unauthorized powder coat (this actually happened). To my knowledge, all Aluminum wheels and other strength-critical aluminum components are powder coated with these cooler curing powders. Heating Al alloys above this temperature causes a granular rearrangement of the metallurgical structure resulting in a significant change of bulk properties. The tensile strength of the metal is dramatically lowered, much like a stress relief anneal on a steel piece would do. The resultant metal is not as strong, nor will pressure vessels made of such treated aluminum (e.g., scuba tanks) hold near the pressure that they were originally rated for. Since wheels are essentially load-bearing structures, they should never be heated like this unless the alloy is known to tolerate it well.