RNBRAD

Yep, definitely a sore subject among many political analytic american's. They also factor in their "cost of living" raises how much and when they deem necessary. Time to become a senator. Why does this not surprise me.

Here's a link below that should help you identify all the differences between US and Canadian models. I have tons of other links on the motors also if you may need any of those. Definitely better idea's and information on these motors than banshee specific motors. LINK

They did an exceptional job porting my motor. Incredibly wide powerband with an arm wrenching hit. I can't wait to get this thing on the dyno. Hopefully soon. It's not uncommon to see 75 to 80 hp just from their TT port stock bore and stroke. PM rocketpig I'm sure he can get you some dyno charts of their porting as well as a list of the mods used.

Good one!!!

Let us know if it works stu? Otherwise yes it will need tig welded back.

Cascade Innovations Verde Powersports Razorback designs

That's called Attention Deficit Hyperactive Posting Disorder (ADHPD).

They need to supply the link in their chain kits then, both types or even an option. Hate when companies recommend one thing and deliver another.

There's no word for that, it's way beyond gay. It would be like me buying a quad and then sitting the damn thing on top of my bigscreen in my house.

Let me define your statement a little better. Most people here use builders "only" for specialty work (porting, honing,rebore, flywheel lightening, etc..) and not general wrenching, welding, tuning and such. So in this aspect, yes we support the builder as a whole for specialty work. Is this the best decision and recommendation to anyone inquiring about these things? Absolutely!!! We know that the home mechanic cannot duplicate what these guys do for a living. Experience is everything and most of us take great pride in our quads and only recommend what we feel is best. What's amazing about this site is, when a person posts a question and how they word that question, we can usually tell if you need to be trying something yourself or not.

I do all my ass kickin in these.

Your best bet. Cut along the old welds and seperate the pipe, do just this and then weld it back.

Fatties!!

Totally dependent on your mods. It's a fragile balance between engine mods and carb size to gain the most power.

I knew it the last time I posted on this thread, but can't remember how much I put. Scroll up!!!

Good idea, cept when your tank is pinched in there and you can't get it out.

Yep did mine, was a piece of cake. Though my screw wasn't stuck. Takes about 10 minutes to do once you've done it already. Mine took a little longer cause I installed it and it wasn't as stiff as I wanted so I installed a larger thicker top spring. Walla no more raddle.

Call Janssen and see if they will put heims on those arms. No reaming required but will probably cost you maybe 50 to 75 dollars more for the heims.

I've always been curious as to the aluminum compared to the poly plastic units. I'm afraid energy may transfer through the aluminum unit where the poly unit would absorb the impact better. Anyone have any thought or idea's on this, or even thought about it?

Word!!

Chrome plating is actually the cheap part, it's the time involved smoothing and buffing out the finish is where the cost is. If it is relatively smooth already, looking at around 35 dollars avg.

Check with pro-flo.com. They can fix you up.

A couple nylon strap, a come-a-long, a 2lb rubber mallet all will help it get right back into shape. You may have to reweld the corner braces if you crack the old welds. Also tie the shee to something sturdy from the backside to hold it on place.

How old is it? I would never chance something like that for sure. Get a new one in there why you have it apart. 400 could be a small price to pay for what could happen.