RNBRAD

I ran Sand Skate II's for about 4 yrs. Loved them, a really good all around sand tire, for everything, even drag. Their only downfall is price and weight. They are performers though in all area's. I now run 10 paddle Xtreme Haulers. Most excellent tire also. Only downfall I could find with straight paddles was less stability while sidehilling. Though a better drag tire they are not the best all around performer as the SSII's, but very close mind you. It was worth the trade off for the acceleration factor.

This is an interesting thread from Macdizzy's thread spread. Maybe some of you have read it, if not heres the LINK.

You may have bought the "use them once throw them away" kill switches. J/K ditto suggestions above.

And god knows that anything has to look better than those stockers after a few hot trips through the mud.

Heres the times if anyones interested. Times and results

I would say learn on a 4 stroke first. That is if your wanting to shift gears while your in a wheelie. The Banshee isn't the best quad to learn on. It can be done though.

Oh yea, lines up perfectly, never even had a hint of a problem with the bolts lining up to the rim holes. The pinch bolts are cranked pretty good too.

Yep, doesn't matter where you go there's always a half-breed hanging aournd. I'm just glad the houses in my area are expensive enough to keep them from being my neighbor.

I never got any torque specs for the axle or hubs, so I went with the stock recommended torque which was around 72 ft/lbs.

Absolutely sweetshee. Sredish try it in an inconspicuous area first. I bet it will work. Of course i've never seen any ceramic polish, so your probably going to have to compromise.

I have the LSR billet hubs and did notice they loosened up after my first ride. I'm not sure why but I may have not tightened them up enough when I installed them. I have had no problems after I tightened both sides for the second time. Seems like they may just need a post ride tightening as they settle in a little more.

Nice work!!! Wonder if you could mount that carb to a necklace, it looks good enough to be jewelry.

Yea I ditto the +4's, cause I still like to jump. I think it maintains the overall best rideability while maintaining front end loft. Though you should be able to still wheelie with ease if you want. Also I noticed the +2+1 a-arms helps keep the front down a lot more than you would think. Negative swingarms places more weight directly over the rear tires allowing for more traction, such as leaning back with a regular or extended swingarm.

If it's the outer clutch cover you won't need anything. If it's the clutch case cover then yes you will need a gasket. Otherwise for the outer clutch cover and waterpump cover, they come with all the hardware you need for those. So you may need oil to refill gear case, new gasket and threadlock for ALL the bolts.

Wait till you get it back together before you go and change your jetting.

The last word is GONE. Just to let ya know. Good luck selling it. It sould sell fast. 280267[/snapback] It's on ebay now with no reserve if anyone is or might be interested. Ebay item

What year Banshee is it? 97 and later are different.

Let me check again for that one.

It goes straight into the white 4 plug connector.

Give me a minute or two, I'll check it out.

This guide is very informative. Though you won't use everything in it, it will help you decide what's best for your application. Also a link of tools used with a Dremmel and two other great links. Caswell's Buff Guide Dremmel Tools Metal Polishing 101 Meat Heads Instructional I personally use mainly air tools for polishing. I use a straight and angled die-grinders. Angled for surface preparation and the straight for polishing small area's. I use the 3M Scotch-brite roloc disks. They come in 1" to 4" diameters and you need to buy the adapter plate. Then these things just thread on and off. They have any grit sandpaper for these things as well as the scotch-brite pads. Generally the scotch-brite brown coarse disks will remove really deep castings without gouging the aluminum. Then you can use the finer grades to get the metal really smooth. Another cool things is you can buy the 1" adapter plate and use the 2" disks, cut the outer edge of the disk toward the center to make them really flexible for getting into small grooves. What you can't get with this can be done with a dremmel and cotton wheels. For anything that's flat I always use an electric palm sander starting from around 150 grit to 300 depending on the roughness of the surface. Do all your sanding wet, get a little spray bottle. Then I will go to around 400 and last around 600 grit. Some people go even finer, I just let my polishing wheel do a little more work. Last but not least you will need a bench grinder or a buffing machine. The more power, the bigger the wheel you can use and the faster the polishing will be. Also dependent on the size of item you are polishing. I specifically use 12'' cotton wheels on my buffing machine. Some are more flexible and some are thicker. This is by no means the end all information to polishing. It's just what works for me. Good luck, hope this helps and any questions feel free to ask and any recommendations are always welcome.

Green work Ok? It's actually recommended for stainless steel and the brown is for aluminum. But hey, it probably has more abbrasives and cut the time it takes to shine. As long as the swirls aren't too deep.

going....going................

It's like a drug, I was looking for things to polish on my sons quad. sheesh

See if this works.