Capone

I dont think I've heard someone ever suggest putting the TORS back on

lol.

Get a can of carb cleaner, spray around every gasket while its running, listen for your shee to start revving. Also, my throttle cable broke where the cable splits into 2 to run to each carb, I heard they break there frequently.

19cc 500' w/ 99oct

Before you do all that, I got a bad plug from the factory when I went to flat river, tore the whole thing down cleaned put back together. Still misfiring and not firing at all, replaced plugs... ran perfect. Just incase its something small, you wont waste your time like I did. But if not as everyone else suggests sounds like a airleak to mE

Airleak? Just a thought.

Pro design - Coolhead Highly recommended/ Engine Ice Coolant, possibly a larger water pump impeller, and some in-line coolers, if you get all of that you should never overheat. If you still do, they have larger radiators...etc.

I drilled a whole that fit the key cyl. perfect through my left fender, I got meier plastic with fenders off, looks nice & clean. Wish I would have done it on the right side though.

Repossessor / PT @ FedEx.

Don't you have an aftermarket head? Like coolhead, or noss machine, something of the sort? If not, how are you getting 170psi? And if so, you wouldn't have a "stock cooling system". "we do not recommend you go past 170 psi it will build heat that cant be dissipated with the stock cooling system without a cool down rest." Just a thought.

I rebuilt my shee broke it in, rode it all the time. One day I took it on a flat track, leaned out and blew up. I dunno, only thing I can think of is the fuel in the float bowl bouncing around. Boysen makes a nice round float bowl for shees w/ stock carbs. rockymountainatv.com has them.

Ok, pardon the inproper terms. Lets say the clutch basket is on. Now there is another piece that looks like a smaller basket inside, in between the two are where the clutch plates go. Ok, behind the inner "basket" is there a large circular (washer for lack of terms) about 5 inches in diameter? There was an extra piece left over from the rebuild, i seen the back of the smaller basket looks like it would fit perfect. I hope you guys know what Im talking about. Thanks for looking.

I have the pro design adapter with pro design 2 piece air filter w/ lid off airbox. I ride most dirt, rarely water or sand. I though I was doing good filter wise til I went to flat river with water/wet sand. I was unipressed when I cleaned my carbs and seen tons of sand inside of them. I can't imagine what went through my cylinders. I'm switcing to dual clamp-on k&n's w/ outerwears. Less possible spots for an dirt/airleak since they hook right to carbs, i'll let ya know.

-Thanks for the tip, glad I read this thread, doing it now

I replaced my head due to overheating issues, seen the head was pitted, piston was a little marked up, not too bad, I had a hunch telling me to remove jugs. Upon inspection I noticed skirt of piston was missing. Might wanna do a top end, or at least check your pistons/rings out...

effect* My powerband kicks in extremely hard, I can break my razr's loose on the asphalt when I hit fourth gear pwrband, what mods will help the lightswitch effect? I'm planning on getting boysen carbon fiber reeds, but should I get cages? What about spacers? I love the top end I have, but I'm willing to sacarafice a small bit for some traction. :\ I will be going down to a 13 in front, keeping the 41 outback, hoping for some take off advantage... thanks.

Nevermind.

First bore, wiseco pistons.

Newp.

Nice sig mike...heh. I will let 5 min warm up It gets a new bore everytime it gets rebuilt. Last time it was a sloppy bore, time before that it leaned out with too small of a main jet, first time it over headed due to a blown head gasket. Now, with all that fixed, I was the dependability of a four stroke with the insane power and untouchable speed of my shee. I have a new machine shop doing my work this time, hopefully it will do the trick.

Make sure the float high is correct, blow in the fuel inlet while moving the float up. When you cannot blow any air through the line on the side of the float should be even with the bottom of the carb (where the float bowl meets it). If the line isn't even adjust the metal clip that pushes the little piston up. Guarentee fix. =)

When bought I was told/given reciepts of a barnett clutch kit, said it was installed. Although when the clutch is in and I rev high, my shee will start to move, also doing a plug check is almost inpossible because the clutch is still engauged, any idea what needs to be replaced? maybe harder springs?

What would be the reason for the melted ring?

Dunno if this will help, but I use vasoline, get the orings in there and wipe it across them. works nicely, no grease mess.

I believe there was an airleak in between the cases, i was told it looked like someone put them together using some kind of household caulk. Parts of the cases weren't even sealed, and I replaced the end crank seals. So I believe the bottom end should be good. The last time the bore was too big. I got a cool head, and run engine ice to help cooling. I'm replacing my airbox with dual pod k&n's to reduce risk of an airleak there. Reeds will be replaced with carbon fiber ones. I run wide open ALOT, and I mix 32:1 with yamalube. I just wanted to make sure these piston skirts aren't going to shatter like my first set of wiseco's. I used vito's cause they're thicker, but thats when I had problems. p.s. How can I have no respect for my machine? I dump tons of money into it buying top of the line parts. They should stand up to wide open street runs, or anything else I should throw at it. If not maybe I should buy a four stroke?