Shee_Man

Just bought some Works shocks from a guy on the board... he said they're setup for stock a-arms however they seem to be about an inch to 1.25" longer than my stock shocks and don't seem to want to fit. Is this normal? How did other people install their works shocks if so?

also just to make sure... you have to cut the plastic "fins" that come out of the intake manifold right?

sredish... that's exactly what i've heard and assumed... since the DG's are aftermarket there won't be a HUGE difference between the procircuits and them in jetting... and the reeds are supposed to richen it a tad (normally a clip leaner on the needle)... so since the jetting was good before... I should be fine still... if not I should be fine to test it out and check my plugs right? I won't burn up my engine right away at least?

I'm switching my DG pipes and silencers to Pro-Circuit pipes and silencers... I'm also adding a Noss Coolhead and V-Force 2 reeds... my jetting seemed spot on before... I have no clue what it is though... I was also planning on installing a K&N filter with adapter plate and remove the lid... this would for sure affect jetting though... including this I was advised to run 310 mains and 30 pilots (is this ok?) I bought the jets but all the screws holding the carbs together were tightened by a freak and I can't get them undone. :: If I don't change filters will I be ok with the pro circuit pipes, reeds and Noss head over my original jetting for just DG pipes?

How much did they sell for? How much of a performance increase can you expect?

other than the problems... did anyone notice a nice performance increase? Should I just buy other carbs? My mods are... Pro Circuit pipes and silencers V-force reeds K&N Filter with adaptor plate in airbox NOSS head with 21cc domes bored 0.060 over Should I go with something else... want a nice bump in performance but don't want to loose much low-mid range. Any suggestions? Also will these fit with my stock airbox and intake manifold?

sorry for bringing this thread back up... but i'm looking at the EXACT same carbs... wanted to know if it is a big difference between stock. Mods are... Procircuit pipes and silencers K&N prodesign filter V-force reeds Noss head with 21cc domes How much lower/mid will I loose and how much will I gain up top? Is it worth it? I can get them for $200US brand new... good price?

should I be worried about pushing my banshee to it's limit like this... going that quick and keeping it pinned in 6th scares me... can I overrev? Pushing it that hard for that long isn't bad... I heard you shouldn't do this on a 2-stroke? What's the limiting factor on the shee... drag or gearing (does it rev out?) Would I get higher top speed with shorter gearing or longer in other words?

I just bought the banshee... so I have no clue. But one of the chain rollers is broken right off... that is visible (the lower one). What are the chain guides though... where are they? Sounds like I should just redo the whole system... the chain looks nearly brand new though and is a nice DID 520 gold ERX chain, looks great except for that now bent link. I can just change that link though right... and what are masterlinks... I assume I have to order a link for the exact same chain? Where is the best place to buy all this?

how much is it to resleeve cylinders anyways? by doing it that it's like they're brand new on stock bore? Or is it more worthwhile to get new cylinders or upgraded one (ported or bored).

master links are the links you use to take off the chain (the removable pin ones)? Also... anything else I should check since tossing it? How do you know when a chain is worn or sprocket... teeth still "look" good and chain "looks good" (other than the bent link)... maybe I should just take out that one link (it could be tighter I guess). How would I take out the link though? How would I put in a new one or join the chain back together? Also is that play in my axle normal? I'll try to get some shots of my sprocket in case it is worn or anything.

thanks for the tips guys... I'd really rather have them kinda shiny than painted. Just wanted to know is it safe to polish them like any other metal (ie. big ass buffing wheel and go nuts) or would i end up taking the chrome/plating right off them? I don't mind them having a few rust spots... I just want some shine. should I with a high grit paper as well before... like normal polishing?

Sorry... didn't mean to cross-thread but just noticed this would be alot more benefical in this section of the forum... so here is my problem Tossed my chain yesterday... 3rd gear wide open throttle... Question is why did it happen... and how can i prevent it. I was jumping it just before and after it was tossed... I noticed I was missing a Bolt on the Axle carrier... Maybe I snapped it while jumping or when the chain tossed it sheared it (it ripped the metal chain guard right off my case I wouldn't want to get hit in the leg with a tossed chain, wow they really have power. Anyways... after I put it back on... i noticed that it's slighty twisted (most likely one link)... I rode it again and it was fine at all speeds... then I tried to push it and once it hit the power band... tossed again... so I stopped riding and it's a nice DID chain and I don't want to have to replace the whole thing... could I just replace a few links... or better to replace the whole chain. After the above I lifted the whole rear-end to see the problem and hot it occured... there is a bit of play in the axle with the axle carrier... not much, but if you push up on the left wheel and down on the right it moves slightly (just enough for the brake rotor to touch the pad)... Other than that... missing the bolt for the axle carrier... any thoughts? Anything else I should check out? Don't want to toss it again... especially if i get a new chain. That thing could rip my leg right off or put a hole through my case. If you need any pics or for me to check anything... please let me know... REALLY need to get this done.

Tossed my chain yesterday... 3rd gear wide open throttle... Question is why did it happen? I was jumping it just before and after it was tossed... I noticed I was missing a Bolt on the Axle carrier... Maybe I snapped it while jumping or when the chain tossed it sheared it (it ripped the metal chain guard right off my case I wouldn't want to get hit in the leg with a tossed chain, wow they really have power. Anyways... after I put it back on... i noticed that it's slighty twisted (most likely one link)... I rode it again and it was fine at all speeds... then I tried to push it and once it hit the power band... tossed again... so I stopped riding and it's a nice DID chain and I don't want to have to replace the whole thing... could I just replace a few links... or better to replace the whole chain. After the above I lifted the whole rear-end to see the problem and hot it occured... there is a bit of play in the axle with the axle carrier... not much, but if you push up on the left wheel and down on the right it moves slightly (just enough for the brake rotor to touch the pad)... Other than that... missing the bolt for the axle carrier... any thoughts? Anything else I should check out? Don't want to toss it again... especially if i get a new chain. That thing could rip my leg right off or put a hole through my case. If you need any pics or for me to check anything... please let me know... REALLY need to get this done.

so if i try to polish them... they'll just get more messed up since they're "plated" and not actually stainless?

How much power can I expect to lose from being one size too big/rich... not asking for an exact number before I get flamed... just want to weigh the pros/cons Richer is safer and runs cooler... but leaning it out I can get some more power... all depends how much more power.

lol... i didn't pay much for them... But am I doomed for making them shiny... not even worth it try? This chrome powdercoat... how good is it... no problem handling the conditions pipes normally do? I wouldn't mind doing my swingarm, a-arms while i'm at it with the stuff.

lol... i couldn't even tell what the finish was that's why i was asking if i'd need to chrome them to get the shiny look... so i could just polish them up like anything else? or just use some mothers polish and buff them up? How do i clean them... can i get them real nice and shiny?

Here is a picture of some pipes I just won off ebay... can these be polished if not what would it take to get them looking like new? chrome them? how much would that run? Any suggestions? I'm replacing DG pipes (supposed to suck ass) but at least they have a nice shiny finish.

if i upgrade my j-arms i'm pretty sure I have ream my spindles... where can I bring them to get this done... how hard is it to do myself? Also if a j-arm setup is advertised as +2 can I pretty much assume it's +2 +1? Are there any a-arms that widen 2" and do not move the wheel forward an inch? I just bought new schocks (works with rezzies) and they're setup for 220-240lbs riders I weigh 190lbs... with +2 arms should it be perfect due to the increased leverage... how is damping affected... should i get them redone for +2 arms?

any idea about how hard it is in canada?

yeah, i noticed that too... plugged the old and drilled a new one... anyone know what size hole? Also will it affect my spring rate or damping the way +2/+1 a-arms or any arm mods do? If so, what will happen... soften it up?

Since the day I bought my shee i noticed that my buddies was wider than mine up front... we both had stock arms so I couldn't figure it out... thought maybe the widths changed throughout the years. Anyways... it ends up that his front rims are bolted on "inversed"... think of it like this... unbolt your front tires... flip them over and bolt them back on... it gives him an extra 2" of width and you can really notice it. My question is... is there anything wrong with this... will it be hard on any bearings or bushings... will it affect shock rate or stiffnes? Do other people do it... i haven't read anywhere on here about people doing it and it seems to really make a big difference in stability... who needs +2 a-arms

Here are my mods... Procircuit Pipes and silencers V-Force 2 reeds Noss Coolhead 21cc domes 0.060 bore K&N Filter with adapter (no lid?) I'm thinking 300 main and 30 pilot from what i've read? The reason I ask is because "supposedly" with procircuit pipes you have to richen up the pilot... why is this if they're "top-end" pipes? Is this true... most other pipes I know you don't have to. I haven't installed all the above but will finish the install tomorrow and wanted to know about jetting. Also what should I do about my needle? Opinions? In the winter what how much richer would I need to go? (pilot also? or just main?) Thanks for all the help guys... been on the board for a week and can't get over how good the knowledge is and how much you guys help.

sorry... I thought about that when I wrote it... I wouldn't necessarily call it a "sweet" smell... just to me it is so sweet. (as in I like the smell). So it could be race gas from before... that's probably it... anyone else know the smell I mean... i've only smelt it on banshees... does race gas smell stick around that long?