Shee_Man

Any reason you aren't running it in the shee? No one here seems to be... scares me a bit

Would it even help for draggin'? I like the sounds of more bottom end and LOVE the one jet change. I know a larger "PAIR" of carbs would be better for draggin' but I wanted to know if a 2-1 would still help me a bit compared to stock But want to still be able to take my buddies in a straight line. My mods are... Stock carbs removed TORS Procircuit Pipes and Silencers V-Force reeds NOSS head with 21CC domes K&N

In other words would it be a good idea to run say BR9EIX plugs (iridium 9mm plugs). Since they're iridium they have the more powerful spark like sredish has described in alot of posts... however since they're one range cooler you won't run into jetting/detonation problems. Also iridium plugs are much harder to foul... so it would seem this would be the best choice... especially if you're running a modded engine. I'm sure sredish will get in on this post soon He doesn't miss much.

This stuff is supposedly the best stuff since sliced bread... anyone try it? Sounds impressive on paper and all the reviews I've read... but mainly on snowmobiles and jetskis Anyone try it in their shee? Is it worth the extra money?

bought the gauge... only problem is that it looks like I cant thread it in with the gas tank on and I was in a rush at the time... next time i'm out in the country I'll do it. Another idea I had was... could it be crappy sealant on my case halves or a hole in the sealant... or would this affect both pistons... the crank was just changed with 10 hours of riding on it... so I doubt it's the crank seal... everything else looks pretty tight and sealed up when I checked. Also could it be my float height is set too low in that carb? Would that cause a lean condition?

Yup... I swapped the reeds from left to right cylinder and the left still wont fire except when choked. It's this "choked" thing that makes me sure it's an airleak or crank seal. However if it was a crank seal would I already have melted my engine... I mean if it won't even idle on that side without choke wouldnt i melt the piston in 10 minutes of normal riding... which i've done way more than like this already. does more fuel help fire low compression?

Wow, sounds like it could be anything. All of you guys who had this problem... you mean by putting on the choke the left side would start to fire again? Even the coil problem? Also if my crank seals were starting to go or I have an air leak to the extent that it won't fire unless I choke it while idling... if I do a plug test, should my left side be much leaner than my right? Or at WOT is the engine not able to suck more air through the hole since it's moving such much more?

I doubt it's that... but i'll try playing again with my idle screws. To have it idle as is now... my idle is set high (since only one cylinder is running) then if i pull the choke out a little it will rev to the moon since both cylinders start firing. Also it takes a while for my left side to start running also... I have to ride it for a good minute and then once it's in the powerband it will start firing and then it's pretty good... but will still cut out at lower RPM's. However with the choke the left side seems fine but the right goes rich... I guess I should ride it more and figure it out... but based on this could it be a crank seal... or would I have locked up my left side cylinder? I've checked my plugs and both look quite good, so I don't think i'm running too lean... and if it's running so lean that it doesn't fire sometimes wouldn't I blow up my piston in a matter of minutes? I've rode a good 2 hours like this now at least. Really can't get it figured out... thanks for the help though guys... won't be able to do it without you all. Keep the ideas coming.

Could it be float height?

by touching inside of each silencer... both sides are the same... if this is what you mean... if you mean inside the "pipe" by the exhaust outlets... I don't know and I haven't checked... but if this will solve anything I will... I just hate getting those springs on and off, lol. As for compression... hopefully I'll have it done by tomorrow... would it make sense that choking a low compression piston would make it run better than not... A/F should be good regardless of compression right? Or maybe at lower compressions, it will fire better if rich? Choke tube seems good... but i'll check it for a tight seal and any cracks in case...

yeah, adjusted carb sync yesterday, forgot to mention that and have fiddled with the idle screws like mad. Since the choke makes it runs again... I wouldn't think it could be this... but I could be wrong... is this a normal symptom of bad sync or idle screws being wrong. Right side pipe will be warm and left side cold (since the cylinder isnt firing)... when I choke it though the left fires. Could it be a bad crank seal on the left side? If it's an air leak... what are the most popular places for it to be? What about a problem with my head... just installed the head and the problem could have been happening since then.... however it's weird that it goes away when I choke it. Is this normal for low compression maybe? buying a compression gauge tonight... but could it be due to low compression on the left side?

Alright my mods are... PC pipes and silencers K&N V-force reeds NOS head 310 mains 30 pilots Problem is that it only idles on the right cylinder UNLESS I choke it a bit, then the left will idle and the right will smoke (due to the choke). So I thought clogged pilot... cleaned it out real well and still the same thing. Sometimes the left will fire though (warmed up) and it runs great when it hits powerband... sometimes it will bogg when the left isn't firing (comes and goes). Then I thought maybe a damaged reed... they were almost brand new... put them in a week ago but you never know... I could see light through the petals in a couple of areas, nothing major though at all (probably like that when I bought them brand new... just incase I switched the left cylinder reeds with the right cylinder.... problem was still there though, so it's not the reeds. The fact that when I choke it, it idles well on the left and is rich on the right (and the pilot is not clogged) makes me think air leak maybe... visually I don't see anything, tried carb cleaner and didn't see a difference (but hardly noticed a difference when I spray my filter with it too). Also if it was an airleak... wouldn't it be more constant... in other words not "coming and going" hot or not.. also wouldn't run well when i'm riding it hard... plus the plug looks perfectly jetted... may do a plug chop in case though... see what you guys think first... if so, where should I look for an airleak? All the above mods were done same time... NOSS head maybe? Choke tube is in place. Spark plugs are new. TORS removed... however not by me... but could it be a TORS problem? I've switched plug wires from left to right as well and no differnece. The fact that when I choke it, it runs seems to be my biggest clue at the moment... Sorry for the long post, lol... just want to get all the facts out there so I don't waste anyones time.

My setup... PC pipes and silencers V-force 2 reeds NOSS 21cc head K&N no lid 310 mains and 30 pilots My shee pulls strong however sometimes I have trouble starting and left cylinder won't fire until I rev it up a bit. However when it's going strong I find that I have a little dip in power right before I hit the powerband.... I have decent low end which climbs slowly, then dips a bit then takes off like a bat out of hell... hopefully I'm being clear, lol. Any ideas... or is this normal? Also any ideas on the left cylinder not firing... don't think it's a plug since i've changed 'em already (unless i fouled another one).

Alright from what I understand... Pilot = idle to 1/4 throttle Needle clip = 1/4 - 3/4 throttle Main = 3/4 - WOT What about are different RPM levels... at the moment my shee is boggin until powerband then takes off like a bat out of hell... Would this only be my main? Are the Pilot, needle clip and main only control the air/fuel for different throttle positions regardless of how high or low you're revin'.

people say it costs about $60 to weld your crank... do you have to split the cases to do this though... I don't understand what is "welded" the guy I bought my banshee from JUST had the whole engine done when I bought it (bill was over $1200 according to the one he gave me)... so it's a new crank and I don't want to split the cases again so soon.

yeah... it sounds like I'm not being clear. Alright... I jacked the bike up... both front tires are off the bike... so no weight is on the front end. I then took out the front shocks... top bolt and bottom bolt and they just pulled out. However the works shocks seem to be an inch longer and won't "slide in" between the two mounting locations to bolt in like the stock ones... the works are just too long by an inch it seems...

I think you have saved me an expensive repair my friend, lol. but if visually you can't really notice much of a bend when off the bike... it's pretty much fine?

sounds good nater... going to probably try that out... but they are a good inch longer than stock... is this normal at all or "should" they be the exact same length if for stock a-arms... i'm starting to think you're right banshee boy

already replaced the rollers... chain actually looks good... anyway to tell if it's alright? I thought it was bent... but i guess i was wrong... i'll check it again when it's on the bike... As for the "rear-end" do you just mean the axle bearings? the swing arm bearings seem good... no play at all. other than that... should be ok?

yeah... it's more the stripping that i'm worried about :S... i'm going to wd-40 them up again tomorrow and wack 'em a bit and take my time... try the hammer trick too. Has anyone ever e-z outted these screws before... i've read of a few guys with stripped screws on their carbs, lol...

whoever had the banshee before me was heman when he tightened these screws Any idea what I can do... I need to rejet. Think they're too small to "easy out" and replace?

Is it worth upgrading the manifold? The passages are tiny and tons of rough plastic edges killing a nice smooth venturi flow. If so... what's the best bang for the buck manifold? -Ross