BigRed350x

LOL ummm... no.

Dunno. I just build them for fun. I really liked my old 4mil duner and my 10mil cub. Was thinking 10mil serval for this one, but I guess that depends on what budget the wife lets me have. LoL

I agree, i wouldnt use that builder if they refused to trench used cases. I've been around this game for a looong time and never heard of a builder wanting to work on new cases for something as simple as a 10mil trench. Nothing wrong with these cases at all. They are mint condition for their age. Just finished cleaning the cases this evening.

As stated above, blow the threads out with some carb cleaner or brake cleaner, clean the little screw real good too. If you have had issues with it in the past, I would just go for the red loctite. I've never had one back out with using a small dab of blue loctite on there. If it happens again, maybe order a new screw. Perhaps the threads are just a little worn or out of spec.

Not bad for $1000. Came with plastics, gas tank, seat in good condition (only 1 small tear about an inch long)... Still not too sure about the knock-off cylinders and those pistons though. The little red thing in the cases was just the straw from my carb cleaner can that popped off as I was spraying some stuff off.

Here's a few pics. Split the cases last night. Lots of old goo in there. Still had the original clutch from yamaha from back in 1989. I don't think the cases had ever been opened up. At least I know anything that gets F'd up at this point is my fault. LoL Everything else looked to be in really good shape for its age. No deep grooves in the clutch basket, idler gear was still tight on the shaft, stock shift star, shift segment adjustment eccentric bolt didn't show any wear....

Good info. I have some older basic porting stuff in a box somewhere. I would probably have to order some new bits and stuff for them. I'll probably just toss them in a box and go with an aftermarket cylinder.

Well, got the banshee home and started to tear into it. 1989 model. Frame is in great shape, no bends or cracks anywhere. Came with a 2into1 intake and a 39mm pwk carb and a set of 28pwk's with intakes and filters. FMF pipes in great shape. Pulled the engine for a tear down. It looks like it has a brand new top end and brand new cylinders, but im pretty sure they are those cheap chinese knockoff cylinders. Pistons had no markings at all. The head gasket was a really thin flimsy piece of sheetmetal. Definitely not stock. Are those cylinders any good or just toss em? Cases have never been port matched or anything. As far as i can tell so far its pretty unmolested.

Never was much of a fan of the arched look. I always liked them straight.

Anyone still around who makes swingarms like the old SLC Quad Customs ones? The smaller tube ladder bar style stuff. Or anyone who does the crushed oval style ones?

I have a 2-5 override from WCR in a box somewhere. Just have to find it... I used to have rubbermaid tubs full of old banshee stuff.

I've done it on a couple of previous banshees and liked it. Just felt a little more smooth and less clunky. Kinda like going from a stock shift star to a modified shift star. Its cheap and easy to do, so why not...

Well, if this deal pans out I will be picking up an old 89 J-Arm banshee on Friday. Looks a little beat up and is currently in pieces. Getting it pretty cheap, but looks like everything is there and it has some bigger carbs that come with it. Going to split the cases and go through everything. Cut the dogs on the transmission, bearing on the drum, shift star mod, shift-pro bearing, pancake bearing, billet basket, straight cuts, 10mil crank. Not sure if I want to do a cub or a serval yet though. I think a serval would be more geared towards what I would do with it. That should give me a pretty good start on the engine and get me through winter. Other suggestions for engine stuff?

I think your case trenching may have gone a bit overboard in that pic. hahaha Cool setup for checking runout.

I believe 25 is the stock pilot. Try a 27.5 pilot and see if its any easier to start. Where are your air screws set? BR8ES plugs? Plugs look good, no fouling?

Check the steering hoop in front of the gas tank. If its been wrecked pretty good that hoop will have cracks and bends around the gusset plate where your pipes bolt to. Subframes get bent pretty easy so check back at the rear stinger mounting points for cracks and bends.

What is your squish clearance between the piston and the dome? You could adjust your base gasket to get the clearance you want. Most of them are between .020 and .030, but it ultimately depends on who did the porting and cut the domes. Start with your squish and see where you are at, that will give you a general idea of if you need a thicker or thinner gasket.

I think I joined in 2002 or 2003. Been doing the banshee stuff since I was 16 or 17 and I'm 34 now.

Nice, thanks man! Looks very similar. I'd be interested to see some hardness tests on the rollers and cages for comparison. I will have to pick up a couple and do a visual inspection...

Replacements for the pancake bearing? Shoot me some part numbers so I can check this stuff out!

Good thing it was just at idle and wasnt a violent seize-up. Good looking build!

Getting everything cleaned and ready for reassembly on my buddy Mike's stock stroke engine. Shift star mod, shift pro roller bearing, pancake bearing, billet water impeller, new idler gear, adjustable timing plate, cleanup port on the cylinders, port matched cases, and all new seals and gaskets. K&N pod filters, TORS delete, FMF pipes.