BluBanshee98

Yamabond for the case halves...you can pick up permatex moto seal at most major auto parts stores...it's pretty much the same thing! Gray runny but dries pliable.

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/110585-Leakdown Tester There's the link...I just got done making one...way easy. That cylinder is more than likely sucking air! What do your plugs look like?

Look at the pinned up top for the leakdown test! It tells how to build one for cheap and how to use it. Now for the reed breaking...make sure the window on the piston skirt can be seen through the intake. I'm sure it sounds far fetched but ya never no. From what I read up top you just removed the head to make sure it was .20 over! Also if the carbs are not in sync that will wreak havoc!

Sold

I have a 1994 with a harness that has been cut and spliced. Had a cdi go bad so I ordered a new CDI for a 94 and my harness side is the 2 square 4 prong connections. If someone has just the connectors I could properly splice in or a whole cut up harness please let me know. I was just gonna get a different cdi but seeing as its a 94 i'd prefer to just make the connections correct. Thanks

Sold!

Bump!

115mm rods and it isn't billet.

Crankworks 10mm Banshee Crank Heres the deal...I bought it from a local guy with the intentions of building a drag bike but things have changed. He said water some how got into the cylinder and when they tore it down they found it in its current condition. Everything still seems tight well within tolerance. I did take this down to crankworks in Tempe for an estimate and worst case scenario I would be looking at $550 and they said they doubted that but didn't want me to be blindsided. I asked what it would cost to buy this crank new....$1200. I'm asking $300 or trade for long travel buggy parts. Thanks Josh

Price Drop!!!! $7500

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2000 Chevrolet 3500 5.7L Engine 1 Ton Long Bed 4.10 gears 93000 miles 4 Wheel Drive 17x9 KMC Hoss Wheels in Black 36"x13.5x17 Super Swamper IROK Radials 6" Superlift Power Windows/Locks Title in Hand $8500 cash Josh 702-767-0695

Found a Rail I want $8500 2006 Yamaha Rhino 686 kit Stage 2 Cam Ported and Polished Dynatek CDI K&N Clamp On Filter with Billet Adapter KMS Siphon Break KMS Exhaust Header Billet 2" Exhaust Tip New Unleashed UTV Machined Sheave New Greaseless Rollers New OEM Belt New Orange Secondary Spring ESE +6" Long Travel Kit Radflo 2.0 Dual Rate Remote Rezi Coil Over's Gorilla Axles Aftermarket Spindles All A-Arm Pockets Gusseted B&A Motorsports Black with Blue Metal Flake Cage and Baja Style Rear Bumper tabbed for Lightbar B&A Bed Delete B&A Front Bumper and Skid Plate Full Doors Complete Firewall around Cage Full Roof with LED chase Light and Brake Lights Trail Logic Front and Rear Aluminum Skid Plates Autometer Fuel, Volt, & Temp Gauges K-4 LED Switches Vision X HID Stock Replacements Stiff Whip Flag With LED Light JAZ 8 Gallon Fuel Cell PRP Suspension Seats Crow 4 points ITP Type 7 Black wheels 27" ITP XTR Desert Tires I have a few other things I will throw in for an additional price! There is nothing wrong with this machine. Priced so I can get this buggy. My loss is your gain! Gimme a call! More pics if needed let me know! Josh 702-767-0695

Mikuni VM28 and bored to 30mm. Bike is a 94 all stock internals with FMFs and some K&N pod filters compression is at 120psi on both. I have been working and researching trying to get the jetting figured out. No luck. Top end is great but the bottom end and midrange hardly exists. Warm weather makes it act up. I just changed the pilot jets to 30 and I can't even back out the air/fuel screw more than half turn or it will die. The stock carbs had 25 pilots and it ripped so I figured for the bigger carb a 27.5 or 30 would work. Nope same problem. This thing had 50 pilots in it originally and still half turn out on the air/fuel screw was all I could get. Actually seemed to run better with the 50 pilots but had no mid range at all with wet plugs. I have changed needle positions still with no luck. The only thing I think it could be is the "jet valve" or the upper portion that the needle rides in may be an issue. Any input is greatly appreciated. I am not too far from taking it to the local dyno and let them deal with it. Thanks

Try stepping up your main...sounds a bit lean on the main and if your plug is light that would also indicate the same.

How old is your fuel? If the fuel is even more than a week old it could be stail. This could be where the "spooge" is coming from. If the fuel isnt fully burning nor the oil and it starts leaking out the pipes. It'll run like garbage as well.

Carbs...sounds to me like you have something clogging your pilot on the right side not allowing enough fuel or any fuel into the right cylinder! I'd pull them apart and clean. If your reeds were causing this your compression test would have been bad on that cylinder.

I generally do a compression test on a 2 stroke to verify if the rings are toast, after I have inspected the reeds. When the engine is supplied fuel/oil mix to run the engine, rings seal as they should when you do a compression test. A DRY cylinder will not give you an accurate reading.

I had one cylinder that also did this. Leaned it out and trashed the piston first ride after I built my first stock cylinder 4 mil. It squished on the money but who knows. How fresh is your gas? I would either back your timing off or go to some bigger domes. I doubt you will hear detonation over a screaming banshee. It might not be detonating horribly but with heat and expansion over your 45 mins of riding seems like what I had if I remember correctly.

Are these the handlebar mount or stock positions?

All adjustments on both carbs need to be as identical as possible. Also check to make sure they are in sync.

Yeah you could inspect the piston by pulling the intake off the jug but might as well dive in. Probably overheated collapsed the rings and now the piston is slapping around in the cylinder. You could also try doing a compression test.

Sounds like your pilot and or A/F screws could be off. If it runs good from half throttle to wide open and sucks from idle to half then its definitely a pilot/AF screw issue. Are they both in sync? Very important. I agree with the previous post that you will not gain any bottom end with bigger carbs. I have a very good article on jetting that I could scan and pm you or send in an email if you think that would help you. I've jetted many machines but many times i will sit down and read it to refresh my memory before I start. Let me know.

Also adding a few drops of of MMO or some kind of to help the cylinder seal stay lubricated.

Do a pressure test. It is very possible the crank could have slipped but I would think with that one cylinder would still be firing and running and the side that slipped would be causing a misfire or dead cylinder issue. Chances of both sides of the crank slipping would be slim but still possible. Seems like what you described was an issue from the time you got it back together and eventually became unstable enough to make it not run. You are right that with nice blue spark and FRESH fuel it should run. Again I would do the pressure test. There is a pinned at the top of the subforum that explains how to do it. When you rebuilt the engine did you go as far as splitting the cases or just pull the jugs off and thats it. I believe you might have an air leak at the base gasket or if you did split the cases and didn't get enough yamabond between the case havles on reassembly. Keep us posted