sheefreak

Not if it screams on top. If it was the TORS system giving you problems, it would barely idle, and not rev at all. Need to get the holes drilled for the idle screws.

If you have unplugged the TORS box underneath the gas tank, you don't have to plug it into anything. As mentioned above, it should not rev up even if the TORS was hosed.

Yes, turning to the right(closing them, inturn choking off your airflow, inturn making it richer) Another thing you might check is your float bowls. If they have been taken apart they may be on the wrong carb, which will make the choke work improperly. This may explain why you have a hard time starting it, but runs great once she is warmed up. The bowls look identical, but they are not. Mine were labeled 1-1 and 1-2 in the inside bottom of the bowls. 1-1 goes on the carb w/the choke pull.

Definately check the parking brake.

You can do the same thing by closing your airscrews up as stuffing a rag in the end of the carb. You might suck in whatever is foreign on the rag not to mention pieces of the rag. Sounds to me like you may have an airleak. If you are indeed all stock and your air screws aren't wide open I would look in that direction.

Obviously your outerware is restricting flow.

Definately a float issue. check your floats again. Make sure the float needle is not sticking in the sleeve. When you hold the carb upright and let the floats hang, you can push up on the floats and make sure the needle seats before the floats hit the carb. Kind of hard to explain, but hopefully you get the idea.

If you don't run a spacer plate your pistons smash into the domes and everything go boom! You can run a spacer plate, but I prefer to run domes cut for the stroke difference. Whoever you pick for porting can do this for you. Are you going to run a Noss head or something similar?

What length swingarm?

Yes, but you will have to run a spacerplate.

They should be numbered on the inside botom of the bowls 1-1 and 1-2. 1-1 goes on the left carb(carb w/choke lever). The sure fire way is to shoot carb cleaner in the hole that the choke tube from the left carb would go into(watch your eyes). The one that doesn't belong on the left side you shoot right back up at you as there is nowhere for it to go. Hope this isn't confusing.

Pics of the Cubs and pistons please.

What are your airscrews at. I agree w/bigboy on pilot size, but until you get them you can close your airscrews down to about a half turn out, it will help a little. You might even think about lowering your clip one notch(toward the pointed end) to richen up your midrange. And make sure your bowls are on the right carbs as well. They are different and will screw up your choke if not on the correct carb.

I couldn't get any one to buy my stock carbs for a "buy it now" price of $40. Put them back up for auction w/a boost bottle, reed spacers, and stock throttle cable....winning bid;$110. I shit when I checked it.

If you are going to bump compression(which you have and are) you will definately want to weld them..... especially if you are looking to do some porting in the future. They will check to make sure they are true as well.

If you check w/some different builders, you can buy a Hot-rods crank, welded, and w/a TZ bearing installed. Depends on what your needs are as stated. You will want to weld about any crank. Most places will weld them for $75 plus the ride.

Not sure of a website, but try A&S racing. They have done well w/turbo on Banshees.

Is there damage to the piston that scuffed the wall? And I assume you did not replate?

Have a complete four mill stroker top end, ported by Patriot Racing I would consider selling. Comes complete w/Trinity head and cut domes for the stroke also done by Patriot. This top end has been dynoed at 82 horse on gas w/34 mill carbs, have the dyno sheets if needed. Also have a brand new set of rings I will throw in.

Here ya go. Very good builder also! http://www.planetsand.com/ubbthreads/showf...true#Post543710

No problem. If it still falls on its face, go up some more. But 260's should be plenty.

If you are all stock otherwise(mainly concerned w/pipes) start at a 260 and see how it goes. I would think you would be a hair rich at 260's. Need to read the plugs from there. Try closing down your airscrew also. I would try them at about one turn out. Leave the needle where it is. To rejet just take the carbs off, take of the bowls and you will see your main jet looking right at ya. Make sure you keep track of which bowl goes w/which carb, or your choke won't work properly. Take care to not touch the floats, they are easy to maladjust on accident. But belive me, it is not that difficult.

I disagree. CP industries and Twister are coming out w/cylinders w/much better port designs. Cp industries is coming out w/some new designs for the Honda 250r based motors in all cc sizes makeing almost double the power out of the box from the stock design. I will admit, 4 strokes are getting faster, but it will be a loooooooong time before a quad based four stroke motor will even begin to touch the potential of the banshee. And believe me, the two strokes are still getting faster every day.

28-30 is not stock.

Once you are in there you may just see that the adjuster lock nut came loose or something like that. One thing that I have had problems a few times w/is the shift shaft. The part that contacts the shift star to turn it will get loose side to side. It should only pivot up and down, no slop side to side. I don't want to confuse you so before you go worrying about this, just take a look. As far as being hard on the shifter, do you drag race a lot. Some people get all excited and slam the piss out of the shifter to make sure they get a good shift :baseball_innocent: