sheefreak

Sold pending payment!

Sold pending payment.

You can get a real big jump for cheap by buying my 4 mil Patriot setup also have 4 mill hot rods crank as well all listed in classified. Will combine for reduced price.

If you want to smoke your friend buy my 4 mill Patriot drag ported (only at .060 over) and Hot Rod 4 mill crank that I have advertised in the classified section. PM me for package price.

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Thanks Shayne. Buyer will not be dissapointed!

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I'm sorry, musta got carried away LOL. $80 shipped.

It has some time on it, not sure how many hours but I assure you all bearings are good and tight. No play in the rods. Welds holding strong. It was together for 3 yrs but strictly a dune drag bike so gets very limited riding.

Apologize for the double post, could a Mod please delete this one?

Picture of stance w/300 ex front shocks. Picured w/+10 swinarm that is also for sale. Valving is strong enough out to +10. Good cheap alternative to marvins and rides smoother.

Chrome looks good except underside of carrier housing. 2 spots where the chrome peeled. Can't see when on bike. Looks great on bike. $400 shipped.

All work done by Dan at Patriot racing. $315 to your door.

Freshly polished on 65.5 bore. Will need pistons. 90 Horse setup, run very well $450 shipped.

Freshly polished on 65.5 bore. Will need pistons. 90 Horse setup, run very well.

Have a 4 mill long rod hot rods crank true and welded w/TZ and Maxload bearings all work done by Dan @Patriot racing. Also have Drag ported stock cyl 4 mill cylinders at .060 over and RK TEK head w/custom cut alky domes also done by Patriot just freshly polished. About a 90 horse setup. Runs well several michigan members on here have seen imy bike run. Also have a +10 chrome swinger that works great for this power setup link style w/carrier and braided brake line. Also have a 600CBR rear shock already fitted to a banshee polished linkage that puts your bike at a great stance for drag and is valved stiff enought to run on the +10. PM me about a deal on all. I have them listed individually on atvdragracers.com under same user name w/new pics of freshly polished top end. Takes longer to get pics up here, working on it.

Here ya go, its dirty, but great condition.

I will take one, i am going to be in the garage for a bit, I will post it later. I am not sure what brand, but i never buy junk.

I have an oring chain in great shape that I used for one dune season(about 5 trips). $35 shipped.

Yes. I have not had trouble w/either.

Here is a pic that gives you an idea of what I am talking about. Ideally where you see the black on the base of the plug you want the black to burn to 3 and 9 o clock. This is referred to as showing heat on the plug. As you can see mine is at something like 4 and 10, but hopefully you get the idea. When you first start and it is rich, there will be no color on the base, as a matter of fact the plug will look brand new and just be wet. It takes a few runs to get color on a new plug, so I usually take 3 runs at the beginning of the day and check plug. If it looks rich close the PJ down a half turn and repeat. You want to do this till you start to show a little color. You don't have to lean it to the point where it is spot on at 3 and 9 for it to run good. As a matter of fact, at the dunes I just tune until just the ground strap turns color. It will run good and I and many others refer to this as fat and happy. When it is rich it will litterally spray raw fuel out of the pipe. You can put your hand behind the pipes and wet your hand. Biggest thing to remember w/alky is untill you start to get the hang of it, make sure it is never on the lean side. A lean alky setup will burn pistons up very quickly. All in all, the power gain is well worth the learning curve. If you have any other questions, post em up, I or the above mentioned will be able to elaborate further.

Tuning alky is easy if you know how to read your plugs. W/the 39 PWK's you would be safe to start at 120 mains, 55 pilot, power jet wide open and start closing down from there. When I get back from running I will post some spark plugs to show you what to and not to do. The beautiful thing about alky is it will still run pretty good pig rich.

You don't even necessarily need new pistons. I ran a set of pistons for 3 yrs and just re ringed them every year. Every time you put a new set of rings in a cyl, wether it be on new pistons or old, bore job or not, you need to hone so the rings will seat correctly. Just like anything else, there is a tolerance at which you can run a set of pistons to bore size. You don't want to run them any more then .003 to .004 clearance. DO NOT bore unless you need to. Do you see what I am saying? Wherever you take them to should be able to tell you your best route unless they are just trying to get over on you and want to charge for a bore job and a set of pistons.

I agree w/Kawking. You do not want to try and band aid it w/higher compression domes. How did it start? If it started up nice w/just a few kicks, I can guarentee your compression is much higher than 80 to 100 psi.