FireHead

Put the bike back together from the center out (if that makes sense). The methodology you use ought be in the spirit of leaving the most possible room to install each given component. :thumbsup:

What you talkin 'bout Willis?

First of all, the SAE correction process is a way to normalize test results and methodology. It isn't a coefficient by which you multiply anything. I am curious as to what you think SAE corrected means? I don't have to design a fuel flow meter, there are a ton of them commercially made. You just have to choose the proper one for the amount of fuel you are expection to flow and plumb it in line between the fuel source and carbs. A propely equipped dyno should at least have the ability to simultaneously monitor 20 data sources. Cylinder pressure can be done several ways. You can have a transducer that screws on under the spark plug or in a more dedicated fashion you can manufacture a separate port in the cylinder (onlys needs to be 20 microns in dia. or so) I am not sure what you are talking about with regards to putting a stock Banshee on the dyno and then putting the motor that you are going to test on the dyno. Are you talking about trying to compare a stock Banshee to your motor? What useful information does that get you? Crank temperature is a huge factor in two stroke engine performance. A thermocouple or an MDTS sensore is all that is needed there. AN EGT sensor can be done several ways, the most operator friendly is what you mentioned. The most appearance concious owner, friendly method is a small wireless probe (very expensive) that is place in a non restrictive manner in the exhaust stream. Spark timing is easy, you have several options from inductive pick-ups to a shunt wired to the negative side of the coil.

I'd let you tune one of my bikes any time. :thumbsup:

I totally agree. I think several of the older guys in our assembly shop as well as on the teams we support in Nastycar still print most of their engines. Moving up the technology ladder a bit, I do not think very many, if any, IRL, F1, or Champ Car engines get printed. :shrug:

Mix up a small amount of premium unleaded and oil and start the bike up. If it sounds like it is detonation shut it off and drain it the gas out of the tank. :thumbsup: A small amount of detonation that is carefully monitored and corrected in a sensible manner won't hurt anything. :thumbsup:

Like I said, it's not really a dyno shop that I work at.

I am not sure that I was arguing, mostly I was just expectorating information. :thumbsup:

When doing a Banshee engine, I am looking at A/F via an 02 sensor, EGT near the exhaust port, cylinder pressure, general weather station data (air temp, pressure, humidity, etc.), fuel flow to the engine, air flow to the engine, knock, crank case temperature, spark timing, rpm (back calculated through the transmission), and of course engine load. :thumbsup:

No one reads plugs in lieu of other tuning utensils, but it is done in addition to several other things by pretty much every one who races professionally. Past that, why would you be limited to having to read plugs at the track when you can do this?

I am pretty sure that Bansh-eman doesn't need to work for acceptance around here. :thumbsup:

Right. In order for th 02 sensor method to be effective, you need to be acquiring data from several other sources and be able to load the engine in some way or another. :thumbsup:

Yes. By saying that, I am certainly not saying that we don't use other methods. :thumbsup:

I think that thing was for a sale ahile back. :thumbsup:

I think the two products are very similair in theory. :thumbsup:

The competitions are run separately from each other. There is not a cumulative points competition that accounts for your finish from all the events. Most schools cannot afford to go to all of the events. However there are several forums that cater to this race series and people on there unofficially keep track of teams rankings across all of the events. I think that you have the right idea about how to go about proving your worth to your Baja team. Just start picking up any jobs that you can on the car. You can score extra points with the team if you tackle work that they have been putting off or have had trouble with. You ought also make an effort to work with others on the team so that you can learn what they are doing even if you don't have to do any work to help them. Like I said before, the water portion of the competion is why I never took my team to that race. The cars that compete in that race generally only compete in that race as there cars would perform terribly atthe West or Midwest races. The funny thing about the East event is that many cars will show up in a state of preparedness like your teams for the water competitions. They usually have a few cars sink in the endurance race or water crossing race every year.

Keep me posted on what you want to do. I think I may have prematurely offered to help this weekend as I think I am supposed to be Vwgas for the Nastycar races starting on Thursday. I am not 100% sure of the dates of the race as it might be the weekend after next. I hate having a shitty memory. I should be back to in my office late tomorrow so I will be able to check my schedule then. If I do have to be in Vegas this weekend and you have alot of free time on your hands, we could just take the parts to the track and sort out your stuff there. :thumbsup:

Properly used, I don't think anyone will have a problem running AV gas. You may have read during your search for info on this site that I am one of the big opponents for running AVgas. When you read what I have written on the subject you need to understand that I basically knit pick over very small details inorder to state that race gas in a more appropriate fuel for a Banshee. :thumbsup:

I agree. That statement is total b.s. Many people beleive that though. I am not really sure where it comes from.

Yes, let's talk about some of this stuff. :thumbsup: Start a new thread on two stroke engine operating principles and engine tuning instruments and techniques. I would be happy to talk about this stuff in an organzied manner. Plus we wouldn't have to keep draggin this thread out. :thumbsup:

I have certainly had issues with sellers on eBay and if I were a buyer in my buyer's positon I would be all over this issue like stink on shit. However this buyer seems to be taking his time doing anything (one of the reasons I think this deal is sort of fishy). I do have a ton of pictures of the carbs before I sent them out. Hopefully it won't come down to Paypal or eBay sorting it out. :thumbsup:

At the risk of getting somebody worked up..........I would like to say that blue printing is old skool and nobody that has other means does it anymore. It's all done with CMM's, CAD packages, and CNC machines. To get back on topic, the "blue printing" concept is 100% necessary if you are building any sort of serious engine, whether it be a model airplane engine to a tractor pulling engine (largest engine that came to mind that is in a racing class). It can be fun to do and you can potentially learn alot while you are doing it (measuring techniques, engine design intent, manufacturing techniques. etc.). :thumbsup:

You're killing me here (I don't have a bench vise at hoe either). A pickle fork tool used for removing automotive ball joints may be another way to get this done, if you were to drive it in between the upright and hub. If that requires a trip to Harbor freight then you might as well just buy an appropriate puller. If you are still having trouble by this weekend and can talk your self into a drive to the Irvine / Costa Mesa area, we can just taker it to my work, stick it on a press and be done with it. I think we could probably sort out your upper a-arm bolt issue at the same time. :thumbsup:

90 psi is really low. I would bet that's most of your problem. :thumbsup: