FireHead

I haven't really gotten into making too many transmission parts yet, but I plan to at some point. My triple is taking up most of my free time the I can stand to spend desgning or machining. The engine that I spoke of earlier was all stock except to the rotating assembly, crank chamber, and cylinder sleeves. I lost that engine several times on the dyno while I was figuring out how not to make cylinder sleeves. Hanging rings and aread of concentrated heat were the modes of failure that I had the most. I think I made a few sets of pistons for that engine that wound up being turds as well (some were turds by design and some were turds due to some half-ass machine work). I don't think I lost any crankshafts or rods due to their own failures with that engine if I remember correctly. The morale of the story is that I think I wound up making about 80hp out of that engine in it's final revision and it looked completely stock on the outside with the exception of the coolhead. I never could get a stock head either rechambered or machined to take removable domes to cool properly. :shrug:

Properly designed, an o-ring should not add and thickness to a mating surface. If you were to be designing such a sealing system, you would operate under the assumption that there is metal to metal contact between the cylinders and case. The worst variation that I had wgen assembling the particular motor that I did this to was about 8 microns. You really have to pay attention to the properties of the o-ring material you are using when sizing the o-ring groove. Otherwise, like you said, your squish band will be near impossible to set accurately and because the clamping force available is less than ideal, you may get a leaky joint. I never had any trouble with the motor that I did this to. Would I recommend that someone else do it: no. Is there any advantage to going this over making sure that a gasket is used properly: not really. I no longer have this motor by the way. It left in the old white bike I had. I put that motor together when I was going through dome dort of phase where I thought I was going to gain a huge amount of power from keeping the air going from the crank case to the cylinder at a fairly constant velocity approaching Mach1. If the guy that bought the engine from me ever has to to any major work to the engine, he is going to pretty much have to buy a whole new engine (yes, I explained that to him when I sold the bike). I fooled around with alot of crazy things on it, most of which did not show any increase in performance. It was alot of fun though. :geek:

One of the draftsman at my work that I go to Glamis with alot has a couple of bikes like that. I think one of them is made by Hodaka. There seems to be a whole sub-culture that is into those things, I guess sort of like the HQ and Banshees. The guy always shows new stuff he found on the internet about the bikes. What kind is yours? :thumbsup:

Ahh. I thought you were talking about something different than that. I have admired a setup like what is pictured above, but I can't bring myself to try it (I am not sure I have been in possesion of an air box for several years).

You could always o-ring the bottom of the cylinders to deal with the decreased gasket area. Obviously, that is beyond the normal guy with a die grinder in his hand, but it does work. :geek:

You probably need to let it soak in some penetrating oil and/or heat the hub up. My experiene with those bolts is that they stretch and deform under normal use and they are almost always a pain to get out. They even deform the hole that thye are thread in to sometimes. Obviously once you get the bolt out you should look into replacing all of the fasteners with new ones (quality, graded fasteners). I am not sure that quality, graded fasteners are the ultimate solution to the problem though. I have had problems getting bolts that I purchased out of this location, which leads me to believe that there is a bit of a design flaw here, in that they fasteners are either undersized or subject to a torsionalt stress of sorts. A few years ago I thought the problem with these parts was due to the effects of heat cycling, so I replaced the bolts with aluminum fasteners. They wound up doing the same thing that the stainless and plain graded steel hardware had done. I currently have fasteners made out of 300M in that application on my current bike, I have not had a reason to take them apart as of yet, so I have no idea if that solved the problem. I am thinking that the ultimate fix may be to use an aftermarket hub, but I haven't really looked into it and it could be that they have the same problem as well, just with a better material (for some reason I think I need a complete set of Hardkor Engineering hubs :ermm: ).

I had a hard time reading the entire thing. It's obviously a scam, but illiteracy isn't helping either.

Would you happen to have a picture of this? :thumbsup:

927 :thumbsup:

I don't know if they are the same. I have what's on DuneDemon's bike.

The Roll heal guards are just as nice as IMS guards IMO. :shrug:

So let's say that I have accumulated 1 million roosts. Is there anything that can be done with them past going back into the casino and betting with them?

I have never run anything like that before. They look sort of cheap to me. :shrug:

Here is my shitbox. I will hopefully talk myself into buying a new one soon.

I like it.

What am I supposed to do with my roosts once I have won them? :thumbsup:

I just randomly attacked people like Chuck Norris. :thumbsup: I am still not sure what I am supposed to be doing with my hard earned roosts. :shrug:

It just told me that the attack system was turned off. Does anyone know anything about that?

This is the most ridiculous thing ever. :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: I want to go play in the casino again, but it's telling me that my wallet is too full. Does anyone know what to do about that?

WTF?

I run the same setup (actually inspired by Dunedemon's setup). :thumbsup:

Reread the thread starting at the dajogejr's post. I know the joke was a bit of a stretch, but I thought it was funny. :thumbsup:

I run a aluminum bars that I find in the bargain bin at my local dealership (I do have a fancy bar pad that I put on them). I have broken pretty much every style of bar out there (no crashes involved). Awhile back I concluded that what you ran for a bar didn't matter. As a personal preference, I have decided that I enjoy a more traditional bar with a cross bar in them as opposed to the fat bars. :thumbsup:

Don't forget port timing and location (sort of related). They adjust that as well. :thumbsup: A 5 axis CNC mill is my weapon of choice for porting. :thumbsup:

Ahha, I learned something new. I have bever had any Banshee stuff new enough to have a brake light. :thumbsup: