racer

container ship. theres a member here who actually who works on that thing. JJ i think.

haha, i still think that kinda stuff is funny cause i used to work at a dealer. who knows how much money in tires i smoked-off in our warehouse, most on brand new cbr's and yzf's. then count up how many scratches we buffed to a nice shine (until the first wash), and then talk about used bikes. you couldnt PAY me enough to buy a used bike from a dealer. when they say, "oh its been well maintaind and we serviced it," they mean we dug up this hunk of shit from joe blow's backyard where it sat in mud 2 feet deep, and checked the oil. (true stroy BTW.) good times.

if you are trying to use a high comp head to compensate for your compression loses through wear, then you are on the wrong path. that is simlpy a band aid, one that is more expensive than the topend kit itself. even if you do take this route you risk complete piston failure. that scenario will send aluminum debris flying around your crankcase, cylinders, and domes. should that happen, you will be out a large sum of money.

i had one modified kx1200.1 for 1 L-7 12. so id get two kx1200.1's.

i would try to work things out as best thy can be done, and see how it turns out. if it turns out good, then you havent ruined the guy. if it turns out bad blow his name up on here and let the HQ know about it, but only as a last resort. until then just be diplomatic and polite about the situationa and hopefully it will end happliy.

im not sure what causes that. but mine did awhile back when i needed a topend. it would start just fine when it was cold, but when warm it was hard. on one occasion i had to be pulled behind a sand rail to start it after it would start atop a dune. btw, whats your other prob?

i hope that its not x-threaded on the crank, that would be a fucking mess right there.

stan is a great guy with excellent machine skills. so if it really comes down to it some one-off work (which youre accustomed to ) may be the way to go.

not much of a test really. pop off the clutch voer and see if the friction plates are worn. if they are it may be time for some new ones. however you may get by with some stiffer springs from toomey. if you do decide to go with the streetbike clutch its from a yzf600. i belive FAST racing has them put together in a kit from the proper bike to fit your needs.

i dont think it will run if the piston is in backwards. cause then the port windows would face the ex port. on porting, im with switchblade. anyone can hack into a jug but to see gains with out reducing the wear on your rings is a different story. EDIT : WHOOPS

he could be cuban? c you are the weakest link, good bye.

Nate is a hell ofa stnad up guy. not from my personal experiences, but from some others...................

its even beter when youre drunk!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

a new spring for that corner is the cheapest route. or you could order that 6" long arm lift youve wanted..................

beware of cheap testers, they arent accurate for the most part!

look at the frame real closely for welds in odd places, these could indicate that its been wrecked and had a new section welded in.

we had a leak at the house a few years back. it took 3 service calls to get it sorted out.

......this is my home button.............

oh shit, that sounds like an indecent traffic accident already.

well, baja's a different scenario than most will face.....................

you probably never will. Roll design is very proud of their products, and for due reason; that stuff is supposed to be bombproof reliable.

sandbomb, please elaborate on akerman and scrub patch, ive never heard these terms before. -cole

MILO, props for calling it a damper.

what about a rear seat cover piece? like that plastic thing that you use when only one dude is ridin. that where the road racers mount the hardware for their track times and such. they are just ziptied through some holes drilled in it.

i second this motion!