racer

this is probably the best reason i have ever heard for an AL impeller. everypne looks at the wear factor; which is nice, but the cooling beneifts come from what youve mentioned.

mine pick up shit around there, but its because of the overflow tubes. if you know your float bowls are leaking try some yamabond-4. that stuff will cure most leaks of that type on your quad.

cant really blame the man for not wanting to get hosed on some arms. good luck with getting free overnight shipping is you act to them the way you acted on here. its not really that bad, they shipped you some bad shit, and will fix it. but if you go in there with the attitude that they owe you all kinds of free ship, theyll probably tell them to put a boot in your ass. or at least thats how weve dealt with customers in the past.

i saw a new sundahl frame on the internet last night. for a trx 450r, but it was the same chassis, just different motor and plastic mounts from what i could tell.

it wouldnt be hard to make a set out of any material you want. i made some tierods last weekend for something else and it was easy. granted they were aluminum, but the hardest part was keeping the bit dead straight by hand for a 1.5inch length. if you have a lathe, they could be done less than an hour from 304SS.

i think so. the extra coolant youre introducing to the combustion chamber wont compress, there fore the little bit of air will be supre dense. becareful though. you have to drill and tap the holes for a swirling effect for the perfect mixtrure

glad to be of help. and they arent only alum, but rebuildable too!

ehh, then maybe custom suspension isnt for you.

wait how did you make your own die? and I just got clearance to use our schools machine shop, so custom parts, here i come.

i agree. the operator needs to take some of this blame.

paddles for snow anyone? heard it, but never tried it.

ya i mentioned that in the previous post. just make the sttering arms on the spindles proportionately larger and youre set. fortunately the steering arms only bolt on the knuckle itself sit would be a simple matter of some math, a welder and a die grinder.

thats funny i was about to ask the same question. my buddy is leaving for iraq and im borrowing his pro tools. so 1 inch tube huh? if i go through with this ill have to buy a 1in die, but thats no big deal. did you go straight to 4130 or did you make one out of 10 series first? seems like making one to use with cheaper material first to test for bugs would be smart, but you didnt seem to have any problems.

im still kicking my own ass for not documenting the process. i wish i could graduate from school already so i can get a job and make some money, but for now im poor. so that means i wont be revalving my fronts anytime soon either. time to sell some plasma!

oh no, ive never done it. it just seems that if you look at a preadtor steering setup it uses linkages, however the same could be accomplished by using a stem that has a ~2" wider hole mount location on each side. roughly putting the ball joints in line with the lower frame rails. it would just take some thick steel plate with a mild bend in the middle and 4 holes drilled in. 2 to locate to the stem and two to relocate the ball joint studs. unless you work in a machine shop and can taper ream those holes id recommend a heim joint steering setup. and since youre moving your rods out 2 inches, you still use stock length tie rods with +2 arms. any thoughts anyone?

Guy Cooper has a truck like that one, big ol bastard he uses to pull his Xtreme pitbike team trailor.

uh huh, and twin lock nuts too!

I thought redline was the highest point it rev safely? hence the term over-rev......

it is behind the wire mesh that supports the foam filter element. there should be a rubber gasket around the mesh, so it takes a tiny effort to get it off, but you arent going to fuck anything up. anything else you need to know about that bike? i work on them, and own an 87(?). solid little bike, the only thing about them is the rearend. make sure the two nuts that hold the axle tight, are tight. and check the oil level here and there.

why not modify your steering stem to realign the joints with the a-arm pivots? It would quicken your steering ratio, but that could be normalized with a modified spindle.

id do it, you can part it out for more than that, and most of the work is already done.

ive seen some video like that. either on PS or RDC, i dont remember. anyways, i too would give a kidney, or anyother redundant body for that chassis setup. smooth like a trophy truck.

the problem with that idea is that the unequal length of the arms will produce a huge camber change, which is unfavorable. to do it properly you need to narrow the upper arm mounts inward the same amount. to see a perfect example of this check out this thread. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=37600 thats the way it should be done.

yup i do; and if he has already had his revalved, the hardest part is done. the makeshift way i removed the spring was with a handful of vise grips after loosening the preload all the way out. to reinstall it i used a press and some tooling, made it much easier. but for the 2 minutes it takes, a shop wouldnt chrage you 10 bucks to do it right, and if you are in good with the service dept, they may do it gratis.

justin learn how to do it yourself man. after the first teare down its super simple. i could walk you through it. the only thing you need is a way to remove the spring, which can be accomplished very crudely if need be.