duecebanshees

Easy boys !!! You might need one of our dumb asses sometime Smart asses damn good joke man

aahhh don't really know man ? I just thought that the track would be pretty close and thought a I might check it out. The pic's on the web site look like pretty deep nasty mud. And all the none atv classes say no paddles. maybe something to go see first then decide ? Will be a while before I do much. Family life is keeping me busy right now don't have time for much else besides eat,sleep, and work !!! Damn it

Where exactly is the track located ? 240ft ? Damn thats pretty short ! What kind of tires are you running ? And what gearing are you using ? Give me some more details about where the track is located. Thanks

Sorry man, but the swingarm sold last night.

I would second nyuk's statement. " If your not strictly draggin I would not bother."

I don't really have a need for a sway bar. I was hoping to trade for a +2 or +4 swingarm. I appreciate the offer anyway. Thanks

Dan, I had a good time riding,and meeting you at the last hq ride at Little Sahara. Get the job done and get back safe so we can do it again. Drink a few brews and blast some dunes. Best of luck to you. And here's to a safe return

I just bought a set. They should be here tomorrow. I am currently running T-5's. I bought them used to try them out and see if I like them. If I do not like them better than the T-5's I will let you know. And you can buy them from me if you are interested ? I should know by the weekend.

I've ran stock cages with boysen reeds. Modified cages (center bar removed and hogged out) with TDR,and V-Force 2. V-Force 2 definately made the most noticable performance differance. I have had the V-forces in for about 2 years and have not had any problems with them. Although I have pulled them out and checked them a few times. I have heard the same thing about them tearing up reeds. just my 2 cents.

Check out that bent the f-up right footpeg on the 3rd pic down on the left column of pics. The bent peg is on the right side of the bike. Damn !! " Light weight racing fenders cost a ton" hahaha give me a figg'n break

Dude ! Keep rock'n it will get better.

Hell Yes !!!!! Cut them off. You will never think about having them back on ever again !!!!

I've been running TM 34's for about 3 years with no problems also. Never had a problem one with them.

When my cylinders came back from Duncan Racing aka Paul Turner national port work. They sent them to me freshly bored with pro-x pistons. I had always ran wiseco until then. And at that point had no choice unless I wanted to get them bored again. So to make a long story short. I was checking compression one day after a weekend of riding and noticed one side had dropped compression a little. I tore it down to find both pistons were CRACKED on the intake sides. And about to explode in my engine. When I had the cylinders bored I went back with WISECO. And will use nothing else. I have not had a wiseco break or crack before like the cast pro-x. I can tell you the same thing happened to a buddies 250r. Of course this is just my personal experience and obviously just my opionion. Good luck with what ever you decide to go with.

I have a Laeger's -2 swingarm round housing for a banshee. It is powder coated kind of a silver/grey from Laeger's. I am interested in a +2 round housing or possibly a +4. This arm is in great shape. With only minor scratches on the bottom from normal riding. I do not race so this arm has not been abused. If no one is interested I will list it on e-bay. Will consider other offers or possible trades. If you want to see a picture send me your e-mail address and I will send it to you. As I have no idea how to post it on here. Thanks

I ran an airshifter on my banshee for 1/8th mile drags on asphalt. I loved it. Beat the hell out of a cut transmission and still have a 1 thru 6 and no reliablity problems. The shifter I used is an air over air no electric involved. I did run a battery, but that was for the nitrous.

Your bike looks awsome. How did it run ? Did you get to spray it ? Let us know.

Hell yea !!!! You can hang out. I mostly read everyone else's posts I don't post much.

So the circlip fits in okay with those tips ? Looks like it might be really close ?

WORD to Led !!! I do not post much but, a BIG HELL YEA to what Led said I met Led at Little Sahara this past weekend and let a brother know that I rely on him for my entertainment !!! Rock on bro

About 24 hours before we head out, I can't hardly take it !!! Gotta put in a full day of work today then finish getting ready and head out tomorrow morning !!! This trip should be the shizzle my nizzle's !!!!!!!!!!

If you are running the stock carbs ? The float level height is 15 to 17 mm's. With the carb setting on a table upside down, and the bowl off, measure from the gasket seating surface to the top of the float. Top being when it is upside down. Would normally be the bottom if the carb was up right in the normal operating position. Your measurement should be between 15 and 17 mm's. If it is not adjust the height by gently bending the tab that seats against the float valve until you have the right measurement. If the level is to high it could cause your bike to run rich, if it is to low it could cause your bike to run to lean. So I would say that it is important for it to be as close to correct as possible.