lastlegwarrior

guys thanks for replying, but i just thoroghly checked out my crank, i pretty sure it's fine. If not you'll definitely be hearing from me again. Thanks

Do you have a clymer manual, if so adjusting the transmission shifting adjustment is on page 144 (chapter 5). If not there will be a shift lever that connects to the shift shaft. Somewhere in that lever there will be a place with a flathead tip and a nut behind it with a lock washer on that. bend the lock washer off, and by screwing that flathead tip in or out you will adjust the shift shaft placement over the shift star. A properly adjusted shift shaft will have the same distance on each side of the shift star, that's what you're going for. Also if you have to tear into the cases (transmission) make sure all your gears slide and roll smoothly, then check the shift forks for excessive rubbing or wear (also watch out for bent shift forks), then make sure the shift forks slide smoothly along thier rods. I think somewhere along those lines you will find your problem, if not let us know.

i checked the bearings they don't seem to have any radial play (up and down), and barely any side to side if any. any suggestions on maybe cleaning up the burrs from wear the nipples poked. i really don't think i hav any burrs just for the fact that the nipples just punched little holes. i think i'll try to clean it up anyways. any suggestions on how to clean it up. Now that i think about it the thing i'm kinda PO about is having to clean all the yamabond off just to seal them again. that's gonna be a pain. thanks for all the help.

how much?

well i put the crank back into the casing just to see what it was like. It actually wasn't bad. Once i lubed up the bearing and spun them a little the crank doesn't sound bad at all. what should i do, it's probably wishful thinking but i really don't think i did anything i'm just kind of waiting on the answers from you knowledgable banshee riders for the go ahead on what to do. Thanks

just wondering if anyone had a good crank. thanks.

i checked the cases nothing cracked tor bent, it just seems to four little holes where the nipples poked the case. How much is it gonna cost me to get the crank split for those inner bearings? About how is a new crank? I've seen some on ebay for 379.99 is that about right? Ok i checked out those bearings again this morning when i had some rest and wasn't so pissed. they seem to roll fine, they make some noise, do you think they would be ok, or am i just kidding myself?

well tonight i was all excited about finally getting the shee back together after waiting for parts forever. well all i was putting the crank in i did just like i should and spun all the bearing nipples upward so they wouldn't grind on the lower case, and then installed the upper half after lubing up the cases with yamabond. So i'm tightening down the cases, thinking to myself, wow i can't wait to ride this thing.(i've waited almost two months for cash and parts) so i'm torqing down the last of the case nuts and i hear a pop, crack. WTF. i thought maybe i cracked the case, so i looked around nothing. So i said what the hell i'll take it back apart and see what the trouble is. Now i finally get the top casing off and look around a lil bit. does anyone know what i didn't do? I didn't spin the damn inner bearing nipples down into thier little holders in the case. So not only are the bearing nipples smashed a little, there is two little holes in the top of my case (bearing surface, not good.), in addition to that my inner bearings now sound like sh*t. Any suggestions on what to do? I figured i could get a top case off of ebay for a little cash, but what about the crank bearings? does anyone think i did anything to the crank. should i just wait till i get the cash and go ahead and get a new one? Thanks for letting me vent. I'm sooooooooo pissed right now.

the shee weighs roughly with a full tank of gas somewhere in the neighborhood of 400lbs, as far as the suspension goes i've heard that shees aren't that great. But compared to a 300ex it might be respectable or even slightly better. About that reverse question, banshee's are soo good at going forward you won't even want to think about going backwards. Basically as much a$$ as shee hauls, who needs reverse. hope that helps you out a bit.

a&sbanshee, did you mean actually put the hondabond on the crank seals?

would hondabond work. cause they don't have yamabond in stock and i don't want to wait an extra week to get it.

well i kind of figured yamabond, but i don't know where to get it. Right now i have some high temp copper gasket maker it says it's good up to 700 degrees, and leak proof. so basically is it totally necessary to use yamabond?

I'm putting the cases back together, what type of sealant should i use to seal the cases? thanks for the help.

Can a tach be installed on a shee? How hard would it be? Does anyone have one on their shee? just some questions i was wondering about. thanks for the help.

mines anywhere from 78-81mph, i know it's not 98mph but it's plenty fast for me.

jinx44, wow that's cheap. If i can find a state farm rate like that here in boonville i'll for sure be getting one, probably next summer though, still paying off the shee this summer. thanks for the info.

I'm 19 and would love to have one, right now i only have a '98 kawasaki vulcan 800, i know it's not very fast at all. (but it sounds pretty good) My big roadblock in getting a rocket is the insurance, how do you all afford the insurance? Insurance around here Boonville, MO is crazy for those things, who do you all go through to get insurance? Other than insurance, i would love to have one in my garage right now.

It goes pretty much like the topic says, my buddy flat out disgraced the name banshee. My shee is currently in the rebuild process or i personally would have saw to it that this did not happen. Anyways, my buddy has a 96' shee with about the same mods i do, T-5's, K&N clamp ons, fresh rebuild (wiseco crank and pistons of course), reed spacers, and +4 degrees on the timing. Well he went riding again the other day (by the way he let this happen twice) with one of some of his buddies, one of which had a 03 KFX400. The KFX400 had some serious mods though, like.......I think he took out the baffle or endcap on the exhaust. (i know huge mods). This kid with the KFX400 apparently thought his quad was the sh*t, because he was cocky enough to ask my buddy to race his shee against his 400, not on gravel either, pavement. So i'm thinking, if this isn't just an a$$ whooping waiting to happen, right. So they line the quads up and they take off my buddy got raped to about sixth gear, then he eventually pulled away. I don't think i could pick my jaw off the ground when i heard about this, and to make matters worse; 1st, he let this happen twice. 2nd, now the kid with the KFX thinks he's got a quad touched by god, he also thinks he's the sh*t. (of course i would too if i spanked a shee all the way to sixth, and i was riding a kawasaki) I mean this kid's head is so big now he can barely fit the thing through doors. According to my calculations that drag race should have turned out like a honda racing a vette, boy was i wrong. Right now i'm debating whether or not to even call him my buddy anymore, i don't know, i'm just so confused right now, what should i do. I know what i'll do once i finish rebuilding my shee i'll go do myself some KFX hunting, that should be fun. But seriously are those KFX400's really that fast, i know my friend is a moron, but i thought even a moron couldn't screw that one up, guess i was wrong. Once again, i guess if you want it done right you gotta do it yourself. Sincerely, Dazed and Confused

JKJK, the shaft appears to be fine, all the edges are nice and square and sharp, the shaft also appears to be very smooth, anything else i should check for. thanks for the info.

yes i have a repair manual, clymers, i think. motulmonsta thanks for the help, right now i'm in the process of tearing down the two gear holding shafts (i don't know what the actual name is) and giving them a thorough cleaning. I don't have a run-out meter or gauge to check the shafts, they look good, i might have a local shop check the run-out. I also have one question how can you tell if the shift forks are worn, i've never seen a new one, so i'm kinda in the dark here. On my shift forks you can tell something has been rolling or wearing in the grooves, it doesn't look bad the rub area is smooth. (should they even have rub areas? I also have checked all the gears and they look good, no missing teeth or chips. The dog teeth also look good, all of them have that square shape you were talking about. Keep the info coming, once again thanks.

I've checked everything shift forks, shift cam, and what not. The thing is the dog teeth keep running into each other instead of meshing and hooking up. Obviously whenever they run into each other this gets me stuck in between gears. Any ideas??? Thanks for the help.

bump, anyone got any ideas?

sounds good, thanks a lot, i sent you a pm also. but just tell me where to send the money and consider it done. once again thanks.

just went outside and checked it, shifts fine once the gears are removed. shift forks are straight, cam is looks good no additional grooves or rub areas. It's like the dogs (or the teeth that hook the gears together) aren't lined up right because as soon as you rotate them to the right spot everything clicks. got anymore ideas.

Mine domes were chipped up from the former owner, just looking for a good stock cylinder head. I was going to bid on ebay, but people seem much more trustworthy and helpful here so i thought i would give it a shot. Thanks