lastlegwarrior

thanks for the reply, boonville is a little spec right outside columbia,mo about 20mi. west of columbia. actually i needed this jetting info, because were going on a trip down to st. joseph, mo on the, 3rd,4th,5th, and 6th. but you probably don't know where that's at thanks for the jetting info.

Yeah i'm not gonna have much time before i go riding to mess with the jetting, so i was wondering about what size main should i be using? (i'm thinking 320's, maybe) here's my mods: wiseco .030 over pistons hotrods crank lightened flywheel +4 timing/w timing plate K&N clamp on's Toomey T-5's and a 15 tooth front sprocket thanks for any replies.

I've looked everywhere with no luck, if anyone has one that would be great. Going riding in a week and a half so i need one ASAP (sorry don't mean to sound pushy, but it's rather urgent) Thanks. e-mail: vtwin_800@yahoo.com phone: (660) 537-1499 Once again thanks

i was just bored and i figured i'm gonna have the thing apart anyway might as well do something productive, i know i could take it somewhere and get it ported but i'm not really looking for that kind of power yet. So i was just wondering with a dremel and a little time, would i be able to clean up ports a little? Also if anyone has done this before some good tips or ideas would be great. thanks.

signed the petition, it's a great idea. good luck.

I live in boonville and i was wondering where everyone goes to get race fuel, because i need to know where to look? thanks for the replies.

I've got a 2000 shee with a lightened flywheel, T-5's, +4 timing, clamp on K&N's, wiseco's .030 over, and hot rod crank. Not sure if any of that will help but i figured it couldn't hurt. About what octane would i need to run to be safe with 19cc domes? thanks.

I was just wondering if i was going to need to order new seals along with the new crank. i just rebuilt the top end and put in new seals when i noticed the crank seemed to be making little noise, so i figured might as well go ahead and replace the thing considering i just put a fresh top end on, wouldn't want my bottom end going out and taking out the topend also. I've only rode the thing like twice since i last had the cases split, and replaced the seals. It would be great if i didn't have to replace the seals, because they probably only have maybe 2hrs. on them. So the big question is....can i keep'em, or do i gotta pitch'em? Thanks for the help.

yeah, you guessed it.

Also i hear st. joseph is rather sandy, i've never been personally, but my buddies say it's got some good sand. i was wondering about running k&n clamp ons with outerwears would i be ok, or not?

I got a quick question about my preparation for st. joe state park on the 2nd,3rd,4th, and 5th of march (just in case anyone is gonna be in the area). I just rebuilt the shee with a new set of .030 over wiseco's and and new seals. I went riding the other day (like second time since the rebuild) and i noticed my lower end seemed to be making a little noise. Since i just spent the money to rebuild the upper half i wouldn't want the lower half to grenade and take out that new bore and pistons. Also i didn't want to drive all the way to St. Joseph and have my crank go out and ruin my riding time with my buddies. So i have decided to purchase a new hot rod crank and hopefully safegaurd myself against this problem from occurring. What i was wondering when i go to splitting the cases and resealing them am i going to have to worry about replacing the seals, they can't have more than 2 hrs. on them. So am i going to have to replace the seals along with the crank, i just really hate to because they aren't even barely used, i mean 2hrs. is minimal. Any help with this issue would be greatly appreciated. thanks.

Ok, here the story goes. This summer i took my cylinders in for a bore job at a local shop, i thought i knew the guy decently well, and all his prices always matched the low prices i could find on the internet. Well anyways so i took the cylinders in to the guy for the bore job, while i was there i also had to order new shift forks (3), and a gasket set, and then i figured if he was gonna bore the cylinders i would just let him order the pistons and then fit the cylinders to the pistons. So i wait about a week and a half and go back and pick up my stuff, when i arrived the guy had all the stuff boxed and ready to go, so i did a brief overlook two piston boxes, gasket set, 3 shift forks, and 2 cylinders rebored, so i was like alright. then i get the bill, $508.98, my jaw dropped i could have definitely got all that stuff cheaper by myself, but i was like oh well it doesn't matter anyways the banshee is gonna be running in tip top shape. So i finally get everything together and the thing doesn't start and i'm like wtf, and when it did run it wouldn't do much more than idle, then i realize i only have 50psi in each cylinder. So i came to you guys and someone mentioned i might have gotten long rod pistons, and sure enough that's what it was (by the way thanks). So i went to take the pistons back the shop and tell him that he ordered me long rod pistons and not normal pistons. Then he tells me, well i can't help you, wiseco will never take the pistons back once they have been in the bike, i said, "well, duh.." it wasn't wiseco's error it was yours. Then he repeated himself and said, "i can't help you, maybe if they hadn't been in the bike i could help you". But the way i see it i paid this man $508.98 so he could specifically order my pistons to fit my cylinders, and not at anytime was a long rod banshee mentioned, i told numerous times this was a completely stock shee. In my opinion i paid him to get me the right pistons for my shee, and he didn't so that was his error, not mine, so i don't believe i should have to eat the cost of the pistons and order the right ones, that should be on him right? please help me out here....

I got to looking at my buddies shee's top end, and i noticed his pistons seem to come completely up and are flush with the top of the cylinders. Then i looked at mine and noticed mine don't do that they are noticeably lower than the top of the cylinders. I just kind of got to thinking when someone mentioned that maybe i got a set of those pistons with the piston pin higher up in the piston. So i just wondering is the stock banshee stroke supposed to be flush with the top of the cylinders, if so i think i may have found my problem. thanks for the help in advance.

i wish it was the compression tester, but i checked it out on a car and my buddy's shee. 150psi in the car and 125psi in the shee, thanks though.

I was just wondering if i was doing something wrong. My buddy's shee has T-5 pipes, K&N clamp-ons, lightened flywheel, 4 degree advanced timing, and reed spacers. My other buddy's raptor has a fmf powercore slip-on and a K&N replacement filter for his airbox. We raced this weekend and i didn't seem that much faster, also i'm pretty sure my jetting is good. When we would take off we would usually take off out a second (at least that's the gear i took off in) from a rolling start. i figured i would pull pretty good on him, but he usually stayed one or lil'more than one quad length behind me, and then eventually he would catch me on top end and barely pass me (but i expected that because i'm still running stock gearing) Also this was on pavement, so traction wasn't a issue. Basically what i'm wondering is should i have gotten different results, or not? Also i was wondering if maybe i should change the gearing, i mean would that have made the race a little less close? Overall is there anything i can do to make my bud's shee a little more faster than my other bud's raptor? (gearing, different mods, different setups, etc..) thanks for the replies.

i went out and worked on the shee today and checked to make sure the head was sealing ok, and it was and i still got a 50psi reading in each cylinder. I was just wondering what would cause a seized ring? Also if i have one what should i look for as an indicator? I will also check for a bad seal on the compression tester the next time i get a chance. Also someone said bad seals would not cause bad compression, right? (just wanted to make sure) Just want to say thanks, you guys have been great, keep the info coming.

the guage is good, because i thought the same thing. So i checked my buddies acura integra, it said he had a 150psi so that knocks that out, thanks for the idea though, keep the ideas and tips flowing. thanks.

Ok, finally i figured out my electrical problem. After i rewired the entire shee i found a bad wire to the on and off switch, replaced and it was good to go, at least i thought. I couldn't figure out why the thing would still sputter and spit, also it would never hit the powerband. So i checked the compression, 43 psi in each cylinder, wtf, i just rebuilt the thing (new cylinder bore, pistons, and seals). So the thing is, how can i tell which one it is, seals or just a bad bore job? Also i know you have to kick the crap out of shee's to get a correct psi reading and i did, just thought i would add that. But anyways what is the deal with such low compression? I've installed pistons, cylinders, and seals before. I even had the trusty ol'clymers manual by my side just in case. Also this is just an opinion question, the shop that did the bore job also ordered the pistons to fit the cylinders, wouldn't you think if that was the deal (bad compression because of misfit piston to cylinder clearances) they would at least rebore my cylinders and maybe get me some new pistons? or is that just wishful thinking, but i don't even have 5 minutes in on the cylinders and i only have 43 psi. Sorry for the rambling but this kind of made me wonder though with only 43 psi i wouldn't even think the thing would idle even for a little bit and it did) (sometimes i would have to play with the choke) but then it would eventually die off, i tried to ride it a bit and you can putt around and to a point it will get faster not much faster though and then it just boggs. Although like i said before it could also be the seals. Just wondering if anyone could give me their diagnoses on my current problems, also like i asked before is there anyway to distinguish the difference between bad seals and a bad bore job? Thanks for the help once again.

well about swapping the cdi boxes i've tried to use my buddies, but his is a '96 and the connectors are different. but i did swap my buddies coil and the wires with it and i still had no spark. Also, just wondering, sorry for the ignorance, but this electrical crap kind of gets me, anyways could i use a test light and touch one of the prongs on the wires that come out of the stator i mean would the light actually light up if i had spark. Or do i need to get the resistance tested, the thing that gets me though is my buddies shee is a good running shee so i thought if i no spark and the stator was the problem when i swapped them mine should've worked, i dunno. Also the magnet gap, what happens if it's set too close, could that be the culprit, because i think i set mine at like .017, just wondering. hope this helps everyone diagnose my problem, thanks.

Ok, i have a 2000 shee completely stock (it's on a fresh rebuild, new pistons, and seals), except lightened flywheel, and stator plate (but the stator plate is set at stock timing). Here's the deal, i know i posted on this topic before, but i've got some more info now. I went home this weekend and messed with it for a day with no success. I have no spark what so ever, i can put my finger on the end of the plug and nothing, i've also tried grounding it on the head and also nothing. At first i was wondering if it was just weak spark and i couldn't see it so i heated up the plugs and installed them and tried a little starting fluid, nothing, not even a sputter. So i was thinking maybe it was my stator or something down in that region, so i switched with my buddy, i took off his flywheel and stator/w stator plate, and wires, i also switched the magnet too. My buddies shee runs fine so his stuff is in good working order, and i still got nothing. So i kept his stuff on my shee and started switching more stuff, i switched out the little metal box right next to the cdi box off my bud's and stuck it on mine, still nothing. then i switched out the run switch on he left handlebar from his, and put it on mine and still nothing. I've tried unplugging all the tors, the e-brake, and throttle sensor and still nothing. The wierd thing is, last week, and yes i know you shouldn't do this but as a last resort week we drug the thing behind my buddies recon and eventually it would roll start (not easily by any means though), it would run, but never hit the powerband and it would sputter and pop. this is my scenario, if you have any ideas please let me know cause i'm running out. Is it possible my cdi box is bad, and also if you unplug the tors or e-brake or the throttle sensor will any of these cause it not to start? any help is much appreciated. thanks.

I'm sorry i guess i wasn't very clear. My shee is totally stock now, i had to sell the pipes to pay for the rebuild, yes the e-brake is still connected, and i think the gap between the pickup points and the magnet is like .017. And yes i know the rings need to be seated, i had been fooling with the thing all day and had putted around on it for quite a while, i was just going to see if it would hit the powerband, and obviously it didn't. sorry about the confusion. thanks for the help.

yesterday i put the shee back together and was hoping for the best. well things didn't go exactly as planned. Here's what i did to the shee i had to split the cases for new shift forks, then i put a fresh rebuild on her. I also put on a rickystator adjustable timing plate (i measured the distance between the magnet and flywheel points), but i set it at zero for the break-in, i also got a lightened flywheel. So i got thing back together and it acted like it had no spark, i could kick it till i was blue in the face and nothing. By the way i still have stock tors, before the rebuild i was running with the tors disconnected, so i wondered if that had anything to do with it, so i plugged them back in and it was acting like it wanted to start, eventually it did. But getting it to start consistently is terrible, i mean with a fresh rebuild it should start at least the second kick everytime. Once you do get the thing running it misses on the right side occasionally, then the thing sputters and pops and wont even get near to touching the powerband. You can only go a 1/4 of the way on the throttle and that's pretty much it before it really starts running crappy. I was thinking maybe it's running really lean, so i did the choke trick nothing, i pulled it out and pushed it in and it still ran the same. The entire shee is stock with the exception of lightened flywheel and adjustable timing plate but that is set at zero so i wouldn't think that would matter anyway. I cleaned the carbs before i put them back on and i currently running a 200 main, the stock needles where moved down one because of pipes and filters but i moved both of them back up one. Basically the thing runs like total crap in every gear, i think it has something to do with my spark because even with some starting fluid (last resort) the shee doesn't really want to start. I think it's my tors or something electrical. P.S. i took off the head and everything looks good as new but there was hardly any signs of combustion????

thanks for the info, i'll definitely be sure to check the exhuast. I went to ATVforums in the polaris section and someone mentioned i might want to check my throttle cable because, i guess polaris's have an emergency cut out system? I'm gonna go check it out and i'll let you know.

air filter is good, blew all the passages clean after i cleaned it with carb cleaner so the carb is good. I wouldn't think it would be compression because it's got a brandnew piston and bore. by the way boonman those flywheels are awesome, it wants to rev all the time now, thanks.

I've got a '93 350L 4x4, the thing is a total hunk of, well you know. Whenever i get to wide open throttle the thing starts popping, and it's coming from the engine. Also it's not the jetting because it anything it's a lil' rich on top. I was thinking maybe a head gasket, or cylinder gasket, any ideas or suggestions? Thanks.