No Limit Powersports

I did plug checks at idle and mid and wot really dont look bad mabey a little lean now after the last down jet but the plugs are not different. The thing is, this thing has several hours on it since it started messing up so I dont believe that it has a leak or it would already be burnt up. Plus after I took the filter off the miss got better with an air leak (lean condition) this doesnt add up . I cant tell if the miss is oughta one side or the other now. The damn thing will run and rap out but its still missing. Iam running 320 mains stock pilots and needles on 3rd clip with 2 turns on the air screws (see below for mods). I was running 340 mains and needles on 4th clip. As far as the porting goes it is a high rev port job not going to get into the dimensions but its opened alot. Not even sure that it is a fuel problem now but with a different filter on (dirtier) the miss seemed to get worse WTF. It ran before with a 340 main and now it wont 320 seems way lean to me anyway. The plugs actually dont look bad Ill post some pics of the plugs later you tell me what you think??????????/

Ok guys I hate to admit it but I took the air filter off and it seem to clean up (and yes I had tried this before but I guess it must have been fouled) even know the damn thing only had like 3 rides on it I recharged it and it seem to run good again. So last weekend I was riding and after about 3 or 4 passes the stupid thing started cutting out again only this time its not near as bad. So I went ahead and leaned her out a little (raised clip one notch to 3rd and dropped mains down 2). Went for another ride no change still sounds like its cutting out. Any suggestions now??

does anybody know of anyone who makes a tube that will utilize my stock box and a single or even double air filter set up. Ive seen aluminum intakes on the yfz's but never on a banshee?

Nobody has any other ideas?

Has anybody ever heard of the flywheel magnets coming loose from the outer part and if so what did it do when it did.

On the shee 2 dislocated arms from trying not to smack a fence. And way back in 92' I broke my left femur on a (get this) trail 70cc honda

Not sure if I understand your post but Ill need more info on your bike? Really interested in a inclosed trailer.

Ok last night I changed my right carb with a working carb just to eliminate any possiblities of that no change. I unhooked the tors already like mentioned in my first post. My carbs are in sync (made the balls show in the windows on the carbs at the same time. Do you have to close any circuits after you unhook all the tors. Next I guess Ill take the flywheel off again and check and recheck all of that. Please keep the suggestions comming I have a feeling its just something simple I not seeing?? Is the built in rev limiter that is in the tors system in the control box for the tors or is it part of the cdi. And does anybody know how it works.

well I replaced the stator assembly with a working unit which includes the pickup and no difference but I think I set mine at .20 if this is not correct somebody please correct me. I have completly went through the carbs twice but this doesnt mean there right is there a possiblitity that a float level could be out of adjustment and cause it to starve at a certain rpm. What is the float level supossed to be at? And how do you adjust it? Is there a rev limiter other than the one built into the tors and if so how do you wire around it?

Ok sorry about the long post but you'll need the history. My 03 (see profile for list of mods) will start 1st kick every time idle perfect. But as soon as you rev it up it seems to have a rev limiter at about half throttle (not the parking brake limiter of 2300rpm more like 5000-7000rpm). It kinda even seems to stop firing on just the right side at the f**k up point ???? It seems like this all started when my flywheel came loose and I put it back on then everything was fine then it came loose again twice in one day so I put some loctite on and a lockwasher no more problems here. Then it started the same kind of cutout that this loose flywheel was producing again but it wasnt loose anymore?? So I started checking things... To make a long long long story short heres what Ive done with no success. Checked reeds fine, completely cleaned carbs, replaced with working units(stator and flywheel,coil,cdi--fixed or stopped temporarally (so replaced fixed for a short period then started again), tors unhooked--parking brake switch cut,both carb plugs cut,throttle switch cut, black box uplugged under front left of tank) This problem has been very intermitten since the beginning and Im running out of options to try to fix. The bike has 150lbs of compression on both sides with 17cc domes and a high end port job. With the way it started messing up it leads me to believe something failed and not a jetting problem. I have been fighting this thing for over a month and I really need some help. If any body has any suggestion it would wouldly be greatly appreciated.

Yea the tail lights are melted on both shees along with the alba seat on one of them(stuck to me when i touched it). The black plastic on the rancher was toast I guess the shee plastic is just harder or something( hondas). It also melted the crossbar pad off the 02 shee. The bad thing about it was we didnt want to burn it down like that anyway and had no idea it would get that hot. Those bikes were a good 40ft away from the building. The pic where the burnt grond is right next to that building is a brand new building that my land lord just put up .

Were building a new shop and last nite my landlord decides to burn down the old one . So I cleaned it out and parked all of our bikes on the pad for the new shop a good 40ft away. Well as you can see it wasnt far enough. I seen the seats smokin and ran over to them and touch a seat and it stuck to my hand . We wetted them down and everything else then I noticed the fire was in the yard and I went to get one of 2 five gallon buckets we had but as you can tell that didnt work out either. Then one pic shows how close it came to another building. The greatest part is how close the Fu**ing gas meter was to the whole thing. Oh well he is the boss?????

what about the a-arms are they stock or aftermarket.

The odometer has a 150k on it i think (id have to go look) but the motor has 50,000 and the world class t5 has about 5000k on it there is a few touch up spots as far as bondo goes when I painted it but all in all its pretty clean from it (no rust). The car is in pittsburg Ks which is in the south east corner of ks. It has a clean title. And sorry but not interested in a raptor. I would be very interested in a inclosed trailer or another banshee or $ keep up the offers.

Ok Iam not sure if i want to do this or not but I have a 89 gt mustang 5.0 5sp that Ive had since high school and Im thinking of getting rid of it. The motor has about 50,000 miles on it, mild cam, CAI,world class tremec 5sp with about 7,000 on it, i also have a 410:1 rear ring a pinion, still running the stock 273:1 right now and it ran 14.01 at mokan speedway. The car was repainted about six years ago but needs it again. I thought i might trade for an inclosed trailer or a banshee or mabey even some banshee stuff$$. I would even consider selling it shoot me some offers.

If you got access to a working cdi try that just my $.02

Im in need of a flywheel. Shoot me a price$

I dial indicated in to the center hub when I turned it down and it was perfect but when I touched the outside with the cutter it was a little off. Not knowing the accuracy of a stock flywheel I figured I was ok. The flywheel has only been taken off with a puller ever time and never had any trouble getting it off. The threads on the crank are fine and the nut threads a fine. I have always used loctite on my flywheels and never had no trouble with them coming off. I think i might try a lock washer to see if that will keep it on.

Alright for the second time today my flywheel has come loose to the point where my bike wont run. I tightened it with a blue medium strength loctite and a 1/2" impact (fyi I tightned the shit out of it). I lightend it a few months ago on a lathe and Im pretty sure its straight but?? I know boon lightens them but now I think I might just put a new one on unless anybodys got any other suggestions. If anybodys got one for sell let me know $$.

I just seen the new I-Razrs for the first time. Just wandering if anyone has used them or heard anything about them. Im running shredders now but dont want to go to a 6 ply because there to fu**ing rough riding. My shredders hook up harder than anything Ive been on yet wanting to try the tamers. How about some reviews on a 20" tire or smaller. Anybody use the tamers on a shee. I tried fast trekkers (to rough hooked up decent), holeshots MX (didnt last at all, hookup fair when new), stock (smooth hook up sucks), shredders (rougher than stock hookup hard), holeshot xc's (rough, hookup decent), razrs(rougher than stock hookup good), tammers ordered????

Yea it gets pretty wild, nothing like snakehunt but you better go down early if you want a place to park.

Your only showing a low static compression ratio because of your port job but you could go down to a 20cc or 19cc dome safely depending on timing and compression try a 19 and check compression. I would keep the compression at max 150 at 4 degrees advance. What is your timing set at?

260 main on stock pipes sounds way to fat to me might try a 200 or mabey even a 210. Do you have a aftermarket air filter or stocker? Not sure what your talking about on the float bowls, whats the same the bowl??

what do you guys recommend as safe compression for pump gas or at least 93 octane after I do the check.