J-Madd

Did you hold the throttle wide open and kick until the gauge stopped?

What don't you like about the pro circuits? I've never ran them, but they seem to be a good all around pipe from what I've seen and read.

Any chance those are the "new style"?

Has it been in a chassis? Who ported it?

You can't tell a thing about those plugs. Start with a new set to get a WOT plug reading.

Has it been started? Ported?

Are you talking about the Vito's cylinders, or just that you got the package from Vito's? I've got a Vito's 421 Cub and it uses the 0.060" base gasket. It has 110 mm rods and uses their pistons (9768 series or something like that.), OOF BB CPIs. It has 19cc domes, 175 psi, and 0.050" squish. I run 38 pwk airstrykers on it and it hauls pretty good. 4.07s in 300 ft; stock lightened chassis.

I just can't imagine a "lean hang" being the mains, dumps, or needles unless it does it when you hold the throttle open. Did you make sure that the slides are all the way down? Start with the idle all the way down (as mentioned.) I have seen some PWK airstrykers do this. HOpe you get it figured out.

My pics are definitely not perfect - I'm sure someone has a textbook example of how its done. I just tried to make a smooth transition from the bottom all the way up to the top of the case. Remember that the mixture is flowing upward through there. If I had a small step or lip I couldn't get to, I didn't worry about it much as long as it would let the mixture flow upward without hitting the "step" . I found that the more I tried to get the "steps" out, the more I ended up taking out of the case. You don't want to take it out past the gasket or you'll have a big step when the mixture hits the bottom of the cylinders (like my first set - not pictured.) I used a dremel cutting bit. It cut the aluminum like butter. Then I worked from coarse to fine sanding bits.

2-4 HP is what I've read. Case porting, along with a fresh top end, picked up my stock chassis 421 Cub about half a tenth in 300 ft. BUT - different track, different conditions - so there is no way to know if it helped or not. I think it helped, because the track itself seemed a little bit slower than before, but I dunno...

Not perfect, but here's a pic. It's only the second set of cases I've done. On the the first set (not pictured), I took a little too much out of. I matched it to gasket residue that was left on the case rather than the gasket - not realizing that some of the gasket outline was missing Gonna have to match the cylinders to the case now.

Synchronize the carbs (adjust cable to they open and close at the same time) and make sure the throttle cable is not in a bind anywhere. Make sure the choke tube is in place. Black hose that connects the carbs together.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=131363

Dave, Where area you gettin 10 mil cranks for <$700 new?? What kind? I'd also say that that it's not worth it to go to super cub. What about 4 mil DM? Still case boring and machining, but much more power than a super cub. Do the cheetah heads fit the DM? I heard the "newer" Cheetahs and DMs shared the same head. Don't know for sure...

I couldn't agree more. Even when a PVL component goes out, you don't always know what has gone bad. The will often ohm in spec even when bad. I had zero problems launching or starting on my unported 421 Cub with the pvl. BUT The coil wires were constantly coming loose, coils and stators constantly going bad. I don't have a PVL on anything now, but I have a box full of PVL parts - most of which are good; just don't know which ones. THe timing on the PVL is static across the entire RPM range (unless you get the expensive programmable version.) That is - the timing doesn't retard as the rpms increase, helping the motor to rev out. If you have it a x mm btdc/+7 degrees its' still at +7 at 10,000 rpms. The stocker goes to 6 degrees under what it was at startup at that rpm. There was ZERO difference on that motor at the track vs stock ignition.

WHo cares. The product is already sold No one is interfering with the sale by posting now.

I have a friend that would like to sell his 7 mil Cub to fund his 4 mil DM project. He runs 3.7s in 300 ft all day long. Lightweight rider, though. Cylinders are drag ported and the exterior is polished. Not sure if he's wanting to sell the complete motor or just the topend and cases. If interested let me now and I'll ask him. I would put that 7 mil Cub up against most any 10 mil Cub out there. BTW, it was ported by a guy that has run multiple 3.71s on a 397 Cub. To answer your question though , I would say in most cases added stroke will be the route to go vs bigger bore,.

??PD domes should have those steps cut in?? It shows the steps on their website. I don't know what the steps are for, really. ...

what's up with all of the crank failures all of a sudden??? I have had 4 cranks (different motors) take a crap in the last year. 3 were bearings, and one bent rod (hydrolock.) And you know all the shit that tears up in addition to the crank. I'm checking with Titan Racing to fix mine. He hasn't gotten back to me with a price quote or ETA back to me, though.

The symptoms of alky running rich/lean is the same as gas. If its rich it will spit/sputter/choke if it is lean it will run hot and rev high /detonate/burn plug straps and not make power to the ground. Learn how to read the plugs. If they look like new after riding for a bit, it's at least a little rich at the particular throttle position and rpm you were riding at. Fuel won't draw through the powerjets until WOT for a few seconds (at least on mine). What type of powerjets do you have that have 10 turns of adjustment? Even if their Dave Moore's, I think they are all the way out at 6 turns, even if you can still turn them more.

Water Wetter and distilled water, or straight distilled water if out of water wetter. I see no point in running any type of antifreeze during the summer.

The couple of sets that I have changed were hell. Took a BFH, propane torch, and a punch. Lot longer than 2 mins!!

I knew that calculator link I posted had to be too simple . There is no place to enter exhaust height, and it also looks like it assumes a flat top piston.

You didn't mention anything about the piston being at TDC. It has to be at TDC to get deckheight. Here is how to get true TDC.Click

I don't know. I'm in the same boat with one of my 421 Cubs. There is a way to measure it it;s a pain in the ass due to the domed piston, imo.