J-Madd

That is a viable option. We were already planning on stacking bales of straw around all of the trees.

We'll need the 6.0 class for Craptors and for people that don't know how to ride. My best time was a 4.92, but the track conditions were pretty bad when I finally ran that time, and I did not have a lot of trouble stopping in time, pumping the front and back brakes. When the track was good, I was scared to carry the front wheels most of the way down the track. I have ran 4.70s with the same type of lights at a different location, but you could "cheat" b/c the staging beam was too high off the ground. I need some more advice about this track. We're gonna move it to allow for more shut down room. There are some bleachers set up for demo derby, tractor pulls, etc. that the track can run between. Would it be better/safer to take off between the bleachers or to finish between the bleachers? We can set it up either way. There are also 2 trees in the vicinity of one the lanes if we move the track that may be a problem if someone goes crazy out of control. Would it be better to take off closer to the trees or finish closer to the trees? I'll try to help ya'll picture the track. If you take off close to the trees, the rider in the right lane will go past the tree at about the 60' mark, with the tree being about 20 ft or so to the right of that lane, and cross the finish line in between the bleachers. If you take off away from the trees the rider in the left lane would come within 20 ft or so of the tree about 200 ft or so PAST the finish line, with another 100 - 200 ft of shut down. Sorry for such a long post, but I really need some help. We don't want anyone to get injured.

There will be at least 3 or 4 piped Banshees, a couple piped Craptors, and a YFZ for sure, not including my 2 Banshees. I'll probably be able to get a DS650 (or 2) on the bottle to show up. As of now, we only have about 10 or so guaranteed entries, but I'm just starting to advertise.

We just got the lights set up and practiced on the track yesterday. I'm just trying to get the word out for anyone interested. Kennett is in the MO bootheel. I know race-a-holic is close by and may be interested. The track is probably not the best, but we're hoping to receive input from participants and improve it. There's not a lot stopping room. I also need help setting up classes. Should I set up index classes with 0.25 second or 0.5 second intervals (e.g. 5.0 - 5.25 or 5.0 - 5.5 , etc.)? Or is there another way to do this altogether. The lights are not set up for e.t. racing. Prizes will most likely just be trophies the first event or 2, so what would be a reasonable entry fee? Thanks.

I have done exactly what you have mentioned, but I just thought I ran the bowls dry. I didn't know that is what caused my seized piston. As far as breaking a motor in, I've always done it as already mentioned with the heat cycles, etc.

Anyone? ........I may have to re think this project, may have to part the thing out.

They run pretty damn good, but you'll need to buy all the other things needed for a Cub; and you'll need to have the crank welded. Why not go +4mm (or bigger)if you have to split the cases? Not a whole lot more money for a substantial power/torque increase.

I've had it leak around the hose where it clamps onto the aluminum tube (in the picture above) before. It'll leak down through the hole in the cases and drip off of the bottom crankcase studs. I just tightened the hose clamp and it stopped. I'd at least try tightening that before taking the side cover off to inspect the o-ring.

I read BigRed350X's thread about the Banshee engine in the YFZ frame, but it never said if he actually did it. My THIRD YFZ :: engine took a crap on me, so I'm done with the YFZ forever. I don't even race competetively. I'll line up and drag race, ride trails, and I may have been on the rev limiter occasionally, but I never really abused any of the engines. The latest motor, in my sig, just started knocking real loud all of a sudden. I wasn't even riding it hard, just putting back to the truck. I haven't tore it apart yet. I really don't care what's wrong with it; I'm not going to repair it at all :verymad: . Anyway...........anyone have suggestions on how to tackle this project? I can't weld or fabricate anything, but I know people that can.

I've ran both types of filters, and didn't notice any difference. If there is any chance at all you might ride through any mud or water I'd stick with the box/no lid.

I had a stator fail and cause your same problem also. Only cuts out a high rpms. Good luck. Looks like your on the right track to narrowing this problem down.

Make sure you lined the arrows up between the crankcase and the clutch arm. This can cause premature clutch failure if not aligned correctly.

M8 x 1.25 maybe? Factory bolts are phillips, but any head should work.

I'm not sure of the 513, but you can google the entire number on top of the piston and find out what it is. I think the number ends in 795 for the 795 series pistons.

Did you ever check to see for sure if you've got 795 series pistons? I guess when you check the squish you'll find that out, though. The 795's probably won't even touch the solder. As mentioned, if these are the correct pistons, I'm completely stumped as well.

I can't comment on all of those changes. I just know that a shorter swinger on a stock frame is not a good idea with a high HP engine. Good info though, never thought about it like that. :beer:

You got a 10 foot long wheelie bar for that? I get beat on mine by stock 450s for about 10 feet. Hell yeah Banshee's spin but I'm not going shorter than a +6 swinger...........when it does hook, it'd do a couple back flips with a stock swingarm. :yelrotflmao:

There is a metal bushing the goes into the linkage where it connects to the swingarm. I don't know about a rubber seal. You'll be able to tell if you're missing that bushing.........install the linkage and see if it seems loose, the diameter of the bolt will seem too small if the bushing is missing.

I'm not sure I understand your question completely, but I'll try to answer part of it. I think you can put the c-rings in the top OR bottom groove. If you put the ring in one groove, you can turn the it until until it rotates into the other groove. The top and bottom grooves become connected when you match the case halves up.

I accidentally installed some 795 series pistons (as mentioned above..pistons ment for a 5mm long rod) once. The cylinders had about 60 psi. It would start first kick, but wouldn't run for shit.

Nope. As far as I know, all it does is keep the voltage going to the bulbs at 12V (or whatever), nothing else.

I don't have a clue what the compression ratio is on a 2-stroke. You can get a compression tester that screws in where the spark plug goes, hold the throttle wide open(with the key off), and kick it until the needle in the gauge stops moving. The gauge will measure your compression in PSI and/or metric equivalent (don't remember, physics was a long time ago).

Here's how it could help you go faster: Buy it and use it as a sinker for your fishin' pole :yelrotflmao: and eat lots of fish. That could help make you lighter, as fish is a healthy diet :thumbsup: . And your power to weight ratio would be better. :beer: Nah, seriously there is nothing good at all about TORS .

Yes. Light bulbs are blown. Plug the voltage regulator back in, and replace bulbs. :beer:

I used yellow tube of stuff that Jeff@FAST sent me....might have been 3 bond, not sure. Wasn't "Yamabond" but had to be as good or he wouldn't have sent it.