J-Madd

I don't have a lightened flywheel on my biggest motor, but I bought it that way and just left it. I run lightened flywheels or pvls on all others, and may change to a pvl on the cheetah. On my 4 mil Cub, I can always leave hard in second and it never bogs. That is the potential problem (so I've heard) when you take weight off of the flywheel or run a pvl.....it's difficult to get it to leave in second without bogging or making a gearing change.

What's a rade? Not trying to be a smart ass if that's just a typo, I just can't make any sense out of it.

Not even close. But, a good built (and tuned) R with a good rider can hand someone their ass at the dune. I think it would be fun to build a big single cylinder drag bike, but I probably never will.

What did you do to fix the popping? That may be causing your new problem. I hate 4-strokes. I could never get my YFZ to not pop or sound rough at some point in in the rpm range; even though it ran awesome until the rod went through the case on 2 motors and the third started knocking. Sorry to get off subject. :biggrin:

Right...the swingarm bolt goes through the motor (makes it even more fun to work on a #!$$!#@!# YFZ)...I would think a spacer should make it work as long as the width is the same.

25 kicks to get it started sounds like the compression may be low. Weak or intermittent spark could be pickup coil gap, stator, or ignition coil,etc, etc. Read the electrical FAQ. I think it goes over all of that.

I had "boonman" on here do a couple for me. Haven't seen him around lately, though.

All carbs have jets. Do what Jeff recommended on your single carb. The air screw should be on the side of the carb near where the air filter clamps on.

On mine, I just run it a little rich in the Summer so it will still be fine in the winter. I don't ride when its colder than 50 or hotter than 90, though. This is on an every day rider, not on any of the drag bikes. Those have to be tuned day to day, or hour to hour, lol.

Try leaning the pilots to 27.5.

I'm definitely no porting/engine expert, but won't that lower your ports and decrease port timing? I don't see how you would get more peak hp out of it; maybe a broader hp curve, and peak at lower rpms.

I've never heard of a (+)6mm crank??? I don't know what 96 hp at the crank translates to rwhp..it may be feasible...someone else will know.

I also think its the exhaust.

I just put silicone on them when I lose those. btw..how do parts always disappear even if you put all of them in a single box or bag, or whatever. I always lose shit like that, and never find it. I'm still missing 2 pipe springs I lost over a year ago during a rebuild.

Maybe your CDI box is fried and not retarding the timing at upper rpms.

Hmmmm..I wonder if Wiseco is having someone else make these bearings; or has changed manufacturers recently? Hopefully not China.....

I like the way the weight transfers with the no link...and it looks better. BUT if you already have a link set up, I wouldn't go through the trouble of buying a new swingarm and shock, just to change it. I have a link on my 421 and no link on my 392.

Me neither. NEVER seen or heard of a wrist pin bearing failure. I've even re-used them without issues.

Can't really get a good indicator of your main jet unless you have warmed the motor up on old plugs, then installed new plugs and do a 5th or 6th gear WOT plug check. Your jetting could have been all over the place over those 20 minutes....and in 3rd gear, your motor is not demanding near as much fuel as in higher gears.

Ok. So everytime I've split the cases I've taken that piece off for nothing. :shoothead: and anyone who has taken that off knows it's a biatch to keep from stripping the head of the screw.

I don't know jack about 35mm mikunis, but If you think he'll settle in the 300 - 330 range, why do you recommend he start leaner at 290?

I thought it kept the keeper that is under it from coming out incase the bolts backed out..but it does look like it wouldn't be needed for that on second thought, though I'm sure it serves a purpose.

Be sure and use locktite when you put it together.

Have you measured your +4? The stock style swingers that I've seen measure 2 inches longer than the round carrier swingarms. For example I have a +4 stock style, and it measures exactly the same as my round carrier +6. I've seen a +8 measure +10.

Learn something every day. :biggrin: Thanks for the info.