J-Madd

in sig... 2 are hillshooter/dune chromoly chassis, 1 is modified/stretched stock chassis, 4 stock chassis. Also have a Arctic Cat 1000xt Prowler.

^^^^^^^^^^^ Also, changing reed cages won't fix a jetting problem, which is what you have. People have given you good advice on jetting. I'd go with that first.

I'll buy the complete bottom end, someone else wants the top end= there's your complete motor sold. I'll give $$350 for bottom end.

I gotta shelf full of those :cool:

I'd like to go, but I won't make it this year. I went to last clash. It was a fun time.

^^^^sounds a like a good starting point. Don't forget to get the EGN needles and run the correct plugs gapped 0.018''. As he said always keep an eye on the plugs!! And feel the transfers and pipes for the proper amount of heat.

Not sure front mounts are necessary. Shearers don't have front mounts.

Loco, Help me understand how the cable plays a role in the adjustment of the push rod? I align the lever on the case with the arrow without the cable installed. If the cable is too short or too long, I adjust it with the adjustment screw on the handle bars, or get a longer adjusment screw (i.e. stock) for an aftermarket lever where the screw is too short to have enough adjustment. Maybe I'm missing something? I can definitely see how a stretched or too short (new) cable could be compensated for by adjusting the pancake bearing/push rod, but it would then misalign the lever with the arrow (if it had been previously aligned). :geek:

Hope you're running 530 sprockets and chain on that, and reinforced motor mounts of some sort. I don't think you'll ever get the full potential out of that on the Banshee chassis. You also need a strut that runs from the chassis to the swingarm to keep it from flexxing. Good luck.

Replace the cable. :biggrin:

I've seen it before, and also believe the springs were overtorqued. It doesn't take much.

I had one of those "phatheads" that I had to repo of off a guy I loaned some money to. It was nice how it only had like 2 orings, or something like that. Very easy to install. BUT I called to company to see if they could make domes for my 421 Cub, they didn't know what a Cub was. Then I said, well just a big bore (68 mm) dome, and they really didn't know how to do that. They finally sent 68 mm "banshee" domes, but I needed blaster domes, but didn't know to mention that. I finally sold the head, still have the extra domes.

TTT I've pc'd the chassis "stardust" and it's badass. Color shift purple, black, gold, green, blue. Now I need to get the swingarm, a-arms, spindles, and handlebars/steering stem chromed. Who can do this in a reasonable amount of time? (2 to 3 weeks.) I'd post pics of the chassis, but they don't do it justice. Also got one of my stock chassis pc'd emerald green metallic, or something like that. Tons of gold flake in it. The guy that did the work had it done in 1 week. He does the powder coating for the "Boss Hoss" (350 CI and 502 CI) motorcycles and (jet powered and V-8 powered) barstools.

Got pics?

How far are you racing? Man thats a tough call for me to get that thing even close on gas. Start with a big ass main just to be safe (though you'll probably end up with smaller mains that a 4 mil Cub, etc because of the 10 mil Stroke.) Maybe 175 mains to start?? Should be plenty fat. I ran 170s (I think) on my 421 with 39 pwks and it was fat. I forget what needle. DEL maybe?? 55 - 60 pilots will get ya going, maybe not perfect, though.

I used a dremel to get the outer race as thin as I could, then chisel it until it breaks. Took forever.

My 14 mil does that with BB/BF pipes. The springs I have suck. I'm thinking about just using wire to pull them tight.

I've had 2 pullers ruined by loaning them out. They guys didn't thread the puller in far enough...........and you can guess what happened after that. You could also try a strap wrench to hold the flywheel.

Never heard of those. Keep in mind it has the old style plug..to fit 95 - 06 you'd have to solder a different plug on...no big deal.

Good luck! Those are the first pics I've seen showing how to mount a Banshee engine in that chassis. I was wanting to do that with my old YFZ, but have no fabrication skills and no pics to go by.

Whats the condition of your basket? Badly grooved?

WTB Spindle mounts (5/8'') billet stator cover, billet clutch cover, billet kicker, clutch cable, polished clutch lever, thumb throttle (billet), full bore, or custom painted plastic/fiberglass. I'd like to buy these things used before buying new like I usually end up doing. Also need some front Marvin Shaws (comps preferable) that measure 12.5 eye to eye.

I haven't figured the air pressure issue out, but I run 3.5 to 4.5 psi and launch hard in second with 14 staggered extremes on 10x10 wheels on my 421. NEVER bogs. BUT this is on a track and with a wheelie bar....I wouldn't launch it WOT with no bar, and then it MIGHT bog.... I have a friend that has a good running stock cylinder 4 mil that absolutely won't launch in second gear. My 391 Cub hates second gear sometimes (usually later in the night and racing to get closer to first place...then a big bog off the line in second after it was fine before...and put it in the trailer.)

^^^^^^^^what he said.

I'd go up a couple teeth in the front, and try the 10 pdls before buying new tires. You've just got a plus +4 swingarm. How much do you weigh? For drag racing, I'd have a different reccomendation, but you're not interested in that.