a&sbanshee

the reving wide open and dying is probably coming from the tors system on the bike. could be that your bike is to lean cuz the jet size u are running sounds really small to me or are u running bigger than stock carbs on this bike??? i would do a plug check and rejet it a lil richer and make sure it has plenty of gas in it and try it again and also check the carbs to make sure the slides are level and arent sticking

yea the reading u are gettin is the coolant temp not the actually temp of the motor as for it gettin lean this shouldnt happen as the motor heats up long as u have the correct jetting and i cant tell u how important correct jettin is with this banshee but u will know when your jetting is right cuz they plugs will have a burnt brown color to them

id just ditch the over flow bottle entirely and route the over flow hose straight down to the bottom of the bike. also alot of times if a head is leaking water into the cylinder u will get back pressure on the radiator which will cause an overflow the head gasket doesnt have to be blown just leaking for this to take place. so if its still doing it ride it till it starts and check to see if the radiator cap has back pressure and if it does most likely your head is leaking water into the cylinders

they play in the clutch baskets comes from the rubber cushions that help hold the gear in place on the basket when this cushions wear out u will get the play that you are talking about and eventually it will get to the point where the clutch basket will fail and come apart but if u have alot of play i would highly reccomend gettin the regular hinson basket and puttin your stock gear on it that way when the cushions wear out atleast u can replace the ones on the hinson basket

i ran the 34pj's on a almost stock motor witha 65.50mm bore and the hed was shaved just a lil bit. it had inframe fmf pipes and a stator plate and it would run 8.30-8.35 in the 1/8mile asphalt at the drag strip all day long with a 210lb rider so i dont think the dual 34pj's will be to much just wont have very big jets inthem and run them with k&n clamp on's

get u some dual 34mm pj's the are good carbs and work good on stock to drag motors. i run them on my bike and cant complain about em cept the jetting since im running alky but thats cuz alky is so weather tempermental

i misread sorry about the over heating.... also u might wanna check the gap of your pick up coil on the stator i think it needs to be around 20 thousandths clearence

what do your plugs look like?? u havent noticed any aluminum or nething on them have u ?? if so then the bike is to lean and has melted the piston. as for it running hot are u runnin anitfreeze in the bike? or the water pump impellar could be messing up so i would pull the clutch cover and check the gear on the inside the cover as well as the impeller. and sometimes i miss fire can be cause by a fouled plug or an air leak and believe me and air leak is one hard mofo to track down sometimes. ps your plugs should be a burn brown color is the jetting is right

your bikes should run fine with out it fellas just with the tube is make carb tunning a lil easier cuz it helps balance the 2 carbs out i personally run aluminum intakes with no tube on my bike but we got several other drag bikes that we run cross over tubes on and have no problems either so its really a matter of personal choice i think cuz i havent seen where it made a tremendous power difference

yea big block is right infact is was my bike he was talking about and if u want to know the truth yes it helped it shift a lil easier but when u are racing and the thing jumps out of gear then u will hate knowing that like 70 pos shift pro caused u to lose but this is just my .02 and as always what do i know

i would run the b8es if u are trail/dune riding with your banshee but if u are strictly drag racing i would run a b9egv due to running the bike at wide open throttle the entire time its running and also with the fine electrode on the b9egv it will burn off before u melt a set of pistons and i dont know about u but i would rather replace a 7 dollar plug than a 200 dollar set of pistons

i run 85weight bel ray gear saver in my drag bike and have never had anyproblems with it at all as far as the premis i used castor 927 for awhile but when i made the switch to alky i started using klotz benol. but with my new motor im gonna continue with the klotz or either give redline oils alky premix a try

i run a stock igniton on my 350 which was built by dan hull and i spoke with him about the aftermarket ignitions and he said they were not worth the money and i was better off running stock. the best way to find ya sweet spot is to play with it and adjust it degree by degree and look at track times but if u cant get to a track or dont drag race try starting around +5-+7 with lil or mild porting this should work well and it has also proven its self on full blown drag motors

yea it can but i would reccoment raising your compression by changing heads or getting your stock one milled down some and u will also have to get your carbs converted over to alky and install power jets in them. if u arent strictly drag racing this bike i wouldnt reccomend alky and also if u arent real familiar with jetting and what a bike does when its lean or rich i would stay away from it or u will be buying pistons and everything else. and always remember to purge the bike with race gas everytime u go to park it after racing if not u will get rust on the crank and it will lock the motor up

im planning on coming to prentiss as long as work doesnt slack off cuz i cant work in the rain lol which sucks.

i had the same problem with mine but ive seen alot of people like em maybe there is somethin i didnt do right but i went back to a stock one