a&sbanshee

bump bump bump

yea the cubs look good so far im gonna try to get up with dan sometimes this week to get some more info on them even though im trying to sell the bike i have now i still have plans

my question to you now is were u using long rod banshee pistons or long rod blaster pistons??? maybe we just get some special pistons that noone else can get and as far as it being ghetto just remember if it aint broke dont fix it and its far from being broke so until it breaks we will continue to run these motors setup this way. of course we dont run those paper k&s gaskets or whatever they are called we either run the stock replacements or order them from vito's

im trying to get me some info on the cubs as well man paliminaray dyno results showed the cubs with a long rod 4mm gettin about 113hp and the rear wheels which is a pretty good number since these cylinders have only been casted for a few months and not many builders have had time to mess with porting designs and so on but cool thing about the cubs is they look more like stock cylinder are a 65mm or 68mm bore and accept a stock,4mill,7mill stroke all with no plates and stuff because the cylinders are machined for the stroke similar to how the big chettas are done. im thinking about purchasing me a 65mm long rod 4mill set up and seeing what kinda numbers we can get out of it cuz so far our stock cylinder motors have went 6.30's 1/8 mile so if the cubs are able to produce more hp and tourqe and we can get the chassis's to put the power to the ground then we should be able to get some 6.10's-6.0's on motor which is pretty impressive in my opinion

As far as me using correct grammer what does it matter?? this is a message bored and i dont recall seeing anywhere stating that correct grammer was to be used here. now back to the 4-5 base gaskets being used how about u go buy a 4mill long rod crank and run l/r blaster pistons and tell me if they stick out so far that u have to use 4-5 base gaskets.. infact dont go and do all that just simply call rudy kurtz at port magic, or freddie at sandfords atv and ask them how they do it?? last i checked freddie and them were the fastest in nc and surrounding states and rudy is by far no slouch either so obviously both there and our ghetto way of setting these motors up works. wouldnt you think so ???? and im not really here to argue just here to help someone out and to prove to certain people that this can be done and has been done many many times and has YET to fail us

now i remember why i stopped coming here because this site is full of children

yea you can do either bro. and as for mr smart ass either way u cant tell a double base gasket motor from one with cut somes unless u really really really look at it and even then some people dont know the difference so either way its affective we just stick with what has been tested and proven to us so in my opinion all of your moronic comments were pointless but then again what do i know

the squish band is really close my friends just enough room in there for the pistons to clear under load when rod stretch may occur and as far as how its done i do believe we have a motor that RUDY KURTZ setup that was as well as the other 3 motors that sandfords atv has done for us the problem is easy to fix and yes they are 4mm LONG ROD CRANKS unless wiseco is just shitting us and putting them in the wrong box. but you guys believe what ya want i know how our bikes are setup and i know how they run i was just giving the guy some information and so on. so with all this being said im gonna let u guys know how this is accomplished with no plates and or domes being cut and its really simple and goes to show just how much of a retard we really are its called DOUBLE BASE GASKETS alot harder to visually see when someone looks over ya motor at the race track now isnt??

bump come on guys ill let her go for 3000 need to sell to pay off somethings and start a new project

it can be done with out using spacer plates or cut domes my friend i can name 2 builders right now that set there motors up this way and im sure they would enlighten you on it however dan doesnt do his this way he cuts the domes to fit but out 4mill set up with no cut domes of plate has went 6.30's on a full stock frame with only a light weight swing and asphalt tires so appears it must not run to bad and that motor stayed together for a over a year before having any mechanical problems

normally a longer rod will generate more tourqe on a dyno and we just always bought the long rod cranks and had the motors ported for them cuz every lil bit u can squeeze out of these motors helps and the cool thing is you can run the 4mill long rod with no spacer plates with the use of blaster pistons

4mm stroker with the long rods is the biggest u can go without gettin the cases trenched

anotherr

1997 a&s 350 banshee, mods: level 6 non triple exhaust port done by dan hull 1-5override done by dan hull stock trued and welded crank with new rods upper and lower rods bearings and tz bearing on the drive side of the crank all done by dan hull prodesign cool head with 18cc domes 160psi of compression stock modified reed cages with boyeson carbon fiber reeds aluminum intakes 36mm mikuni Gas carbs lightened flywheel&pro-design timing plate hinson basket with clutch saver and porcelian clutch ball 6 toomey springs with barnett steels and r-6 fibers powerpro drag pipes no silencers. dual fed pingle petcock +8 chrome grr stock style swing arm broomstick handle bar with tether kill switch chrome clutch cover clear radiator hoses cut and tweed covered seat this is a really strong running motor it went consistant 7.0's and some 6.80's last year while on alky carbs with a 240lb rider and i have yet to run it since going back to gas as my plans for this year were to spray nos on the bike to make an attempt to see some 6.0's i have many spare parts such as a-arm spindles steering stem stock carrier tie rods stock head stock swing arm and so on everything i have for a banshee you can have with purchase even the chassis i ran last year which has a small motor mount problem that could be fixed with a little tlc. this bike comes complete with plastics as well even though i dont have them pictured cuz these were takin when the new chassis was put together about 3 weeks ago. this would be a good starting point for a drag racer as the bike is priced right to sell. i am asking 3000 dollars firm any questions feel free to leave them here contact me by e-mail@ da_original_kraka@yahoo.com or give me a call 803-428-6952 and just ask for alex or leave a message if no answer please serious inquires only if someone out of the nc/sc/ga area wants this bike we will have to arrange shipping which IS NOT included in the price of the bike and will be the buyers duty to pay for the shipping and so on here are some pictures of the bike and the one with all the plastic is the same motor and all just a different chassis

power pro's are SOLD!!!!!!

ill check on that msd for ya man its probably got some plugs that will adapt it cuz i find it hard to believe they would make em for different year model shee's but ill check into and let ya know something

give jim and jim's sand toyz a call he has em brand new in stock with or without rims. www.jimssandtoys.com

gotta be some guys on this site needing these parts??????

75bucks to your door

coil and cdi unit still maintain stock stator and flywheel. it came off a 93 banshee but i think they are pretty universal like anything else for a shee i just bought it off a buddy of mine and trying to get my money back out of it since im going to a different type of ignition system

get u some yamaha fzr 600 fibers and some barnett steel plates and either keep your stock springs but i would stick 3 barnetts in there and 3 stocks however this will stiffen it up on the handle but will help the clutches not to slip and also make the life of them a lil longer and also i would reccomend using 85 weight bel-ray gear saver. and be sure to soak the clutch's in oil before installing them. as far as the intall it isnt to bad bout the worst part is adjusting the clutch which really isnt taht bad with the stock adjusting rod

appears as though i was at darlington the first weekend in december and saw no quads there this guy when he was talking about someone that used to play for philly must be talking about duece staley bike's which a guy named troy rides. we know them fairly well and i know a few guys that will be gunning for them next year with some stock cylinder motors one will hopefully be a stock cylinder stock stroke motor going into the 5's hehe but im sure troy and them will show up when the atvdra race comes to sc

dan hull will always do my motors he has proven him self time and time again. as for grr they have some really fast shit andy came down here a year or so ago when we still ran 1/8mile dirt and with the bike coming up like a rabid bull he still managed to run a 6.68 et which is really strong considering the conditions. as for buddy's bike that is one fast mofo as well but im sure dan will have another triple next year since his was sold a few weeks back and the times he ran werent bad for a DUNE READY chassis.

power pro chrome small bore drag pipes-450shipped stock 2002 banshee seat with good cover and foam in perfect condition-75bucks??? front brake calipers and handle with resi -40 bucks plus shipping stock axle with brake hub and rotor as well as sprocket hub-100 bucks msd enhancer ignition system complete 125bucks plus shipping stock axle carrier-40 bucks plus shipping stock swing arm -50 bucks plus shipping steering stem 30 bucks plus shipping. somethings im looking for possible trading options aluminum intakes to fit 36mm carbs chromoly or aluminum adjustable struts 11" eye to eye dual fogger nos wet system with bottle

like i said i did a test on them at the drag strip on a consistant 7.0 bike and it made no difference at all in times and very lil in mph so in my opinion why waste the money but the again what do i know