a&sbanshee

in my opinion v-forces are a waste of money just send your stock cages to a builder and have them ported and put u a set of carbon fiber reeds on them we have run both in our drag bikes and have seen no difference in numbers at the track however there is a chance that the v-force's build a lil more hp but not enough to make a difference

whatever u do dont run a 1-6 override they are popular among alot of drag racers that run pavement but they do not hold up really well at all. if your going to run 1/4 still i would go with a 1-4 override and youll just have to manual shift into 5th and 6th gear dan hull runs the same set up on his turbo bike when he runs it on ashphalt and the only complaint he has with it was he said it was a lil hard to move ya hands to shit into 6th but u should be ok

make sure that the case mark and the clutch arm that goes into the upper case half its self are lined up if not the adjust the push rod adjusment which is located in the pressure plate until they line up or the clutch arm is just a lil past the case mark(closer to the sprocket) then readjust your handle until u have hardly any slack at all about 1/8" of slack will do just fine but i usually run mine a lil less. once u get all this done right u shouldnt have another problem. if u dont already have it done to your clutch cover while u have it pulled off i would reccomend drilling a hole in it under the insert so u dont have to remove the cover to adjust it next time and u shouldnt have a problem with a leak espically if your running a aftermarket insert which uses an oring

520 and like was said just buy 120 link chain and cut it to fit cuz u have to figure in gearin sprocket wear and also the chain will stretch a lil as well becuase of it being new. u can run a 525 street bike chain for it has the same pitch and everything as a 520 just a lil heavier chain but that really doesnt make it any stronger unless its a sidewinder

when u get the ball out i would reccomend installing a clutch save which i would get from dennispackard cuz he still adjust like a stock one this will help the ball not to seize to the shaft anymore and also if u dont wanna purchase that u can heat the end of the shaft that makes contact with the ball red hot and drop it in a bucket of water this changes the temper of the steel and will help it not to seize as easily and also heat the ball the same way and drop it in the bucket also and when u put them back in it never hurts to put a lil greese in there

and one thing to always remember a longer swing arm will help u in the long run no matter what anyone says and if your build any kind of power u will see what im talking about when u get one

what is your basis for saying dont advance the timing??? yes it will not bring the et down any but it helps the bike to rev more which will help out in the long run and also a stock banshee ignition retards itsself as the rpm's climb which is the main purpose in the timing advancement. and another there there is no way u run a 4.13 in 330 foot based on your 1/8mile time and 60' times man i just hate it if your really doin this then ill have to see proof of that and another thing exactly what pump are u gettin your fuel from ?? if its the one at the gas station what is the octane and what is your compression?? how long of a swing arm are you running and is it with a wheelie bar?? and also who ported your motor??

his special memory foam airfilter remembers everytime he has had his ass handed to him on the race track and was for running 43mm carbs on a 405 motor dude lay off that crack can cuz even if u are running that kinda setup u are only hurting yourself. but u do what u want and when and if u show up at the track u will see just how special u are

the race he is referring to is the atvdra nationals in monticello mississipp and its october 29-31 go to www.atvdra.com for some more info and directions on the race and i can assure u there will be some STOCK CYLINDER STOCK STROKE bikes in STOCK FRAMES running 4.10's or better in 300' this will truely be where the big dogs come out espically all the guys with these hard running 3fittys

only thing u could do is get another head redone or add a thin base gasket or use a thicker head gasket on the bike and that should lower the compression some but i dunno exactly how much it will bring it down

180 is alot if u ask me, i know in a drag bike espically on stock cylinders with that high of compression u will lose top end and trust u will notice the bike stop pulling under wide open throttle. the best way to check it is with the motor completely cold and put the gauge in one of the spark plug hole and while holding the throttle wide open kick the bike until the needle wont move anymore this will give u the best and most accurate reading in my opinion

i would assume they are pretty close to the same if not the same most heads dont vary alot from one to another espically the ones that utilize pro-design domes

u can get a new bolt and nut from yamaha i wouldnt use just a plan ol bolt from the hardware store but thats just me

i had to heat mine up on the swing arm where the bolt slides threw and beat the shit out of it and finally about an hour later it came out what caused it was the bearings got seazed up on the bolt so plan on buying new bearing seals caps and a new bolt and nut as well cuz its all gonna be junk by the time u get done just be careful not to damage the engine casings or nething when applying the heat to that part of the swing arm

yea a degree key will do the same thing as a adjustable stator plate will just with the stator plate u have alot more adjustment and u dont have to remove the flywheel everytime u wanna change the timing u can get a adjustable timing plate from ricky stator pretty cheap and they seem to work good. as for the american racers u can call dynoedge racing out of michigan not sure on there number but there website is www.dynoedge.com or u can give tony smith a call at extreme sports yamaha in south carolina 803-905-7766 and he will be able to hook u up

i liked how the wear was on the clutches when i was running 3 and 3 but when i went to an override i went ahead and started running all 6 toomeys cuz u only gotta pull the clutch one or two times so the stiffness part isnt bad at all

u dont need the splash guard you are talkin about the are mainly just for looks lol

assuming it is a titanium skid plate the asking price isnt bad. me being a welder myself im pretty sure any ti welder wont put a welding hood on for less than 150 bucks plus the materials cuz otherwise its not worth there time to bother with it and titanium is high as a mofo to start with lol but personally i never liked a rear skid plate to start with

get rid of the tri-tracks and get u some 19-8-10 american racers they should pick u up alot at the drag strip with a 1.70 60' you are losing valuable time there which is most likely due to wheel spin also u might wanna advance the timing a lil bit around 5-7 degrees or so as for it falling off on the other end that can be caused by several things alot of times high compression will cause this to happen or the bike leaning out will cause it to run a lil funny on the big end and also if its geared to tall or to short. u want the bike geared to it tops out 6th gears just as u hit the traps not a second more or a second less. or u could be gettin some clutch slippage at high rpm's which would cause it to drop off a lil bit what do your steels look like and what kinda springs are u running?? hope maybe this give u some ideas but the times you are running arent bad at all for a stock ported motor i did a lil clean up work in the exhaust(polishing) on my old motor and ruffed up the intake side a lil bit and the best i ever went was a 8.07 with fmf pipes

i got full drag port with a 1-5 override lightweight fly wheel prodesign cool head with a set of domes that dan cut 35.5mm keihin pj's carbs on alky with powerjets power pro exhaust and with pistons gettin the crank trued and welded and other misc labor i ended up having around 2 grand or so total in the motor minus intakes and reeds

u do not run a head gasket with an o-ring head

u looking to build a all out drag motor or a drag/dune bike?? dan hull with a&s racing(517-244-0712) out of michigan built my drag 350 and it hauls ass and i havent had one complaint about it so id give him a hollar and if ya do tell him alex from south carolina sent ya to him, he may not answer the phone cuz its pretty much a one man show but its well worth the wait in my opinion. by the way we race down at pleasent veiw on the first and 3rd friday of each month

fzr600 fibers with barnett steel and run all barnett springs or either 3 tommeys and 3 stockers and u shouldnt have a problem for a long time assuming u have it adjusted right and remember before u install new clutch's to soak them in gear oil for 15-20 mins before installing them cuz if u put dry clutches in the bike and just put gear oil in it and go u will be pulling it down real quick with a burnt set of clutches

sounds like an ignition problem try swapping the plug wires and see if it follows it if so there is your problem as for the plugs being gray that is a sign of detination which is never good at all

dont think there is anyone respectable in sc but sandfords atv which is in henderson nc does some really good work and he drag ports cylinders for 450 and its somewhere close to that for trail/dune port. by the way where in sc are u from ?? i live in sumter