a&sbanshee

i wanna see a list of all these customs parts u have cuz im still runing alot of stock oem parts on my bike and maybe if i got some of these super cool aftermarket parts your unlce makes then maybe i can be fast like u word advice man dont come on these sites thinking your the baddest out there cuz believe me your not and i know i make it sound like i am but i know im not i can name about 20 guys within 10 miles of me that are faster but its racing and a redlight is a redlight but seriously u need to fill us in on this special parts motor u have?? what is the stroke bore size exhaust u running carb setup what kinda compression u are running where is your ignition timing at. better yet if your unlce built the motor how about give me some port specs?? rod angle deck height exhaust shape and size and same for tranfer ports and intakes believe me if he knows much as u say he does he should know it off the top of his head. but if your just blowing smoke then i suggest u stop before u get your and your bikes feelings hurt thank u and have a nice day

for just a trail bike use i would run the yamaha 2-r or either maxima castor 927 both work really well but the yamaha 2-r is a lil cheaper than the 927 but either would be find and mixing it 32:1 should be fine as well

could be a cracked reed or a fouled plug id check both if not one of those make sure the slides are in since and clean both carbs to make sure they are free of trash and lastley clean your airfilter good i have had some bikes do that very same thing with a dirty outerwear and or airfilter

if i had a dollar for every set of barnetts i went threw carbon fiber and the kevlars id never have to work again

only disadvantage to running atf fluid is u have to change it pretty often but it does work great and is cheap, but if u dont wanna bother with having to change it often i would reccomend 85 weight bel-ray gear saver its what we run in all our drag bikes and we have never had a problem with it yet and we run about 6 months or better with out changing the gear oil and when we do change it the oil always looks brand new just about hardly any color change at all

the fzr600 fibers will drop right in to the stock clutch pack with no mods needed at all except maybe a lil adjustment on the push rod as for the steel u can run the barnetts with no problem but the stock fzr600 plates are a lil bit to thick and its hard to get a clutch to function properly with them. if im thinkin right barnett sells two kinds of steels that will fit in a shee and one set is thicker than the other i run the thicker ones to help prevent clutch slippage and there is just enough room left for the pressure plate to slide onto the inner hub if u go this route u will have to adjust the push rod adjustment really far in but it will work fine, and if you are dragging this motor only then use 6 toomey springs and u probably wont ever have to worry about the clutch slipping but if u trail/dune this motor id use all 6 barnetts or either 3 toomy's and 3 stockers. hope this helps man and if ya got anymore questions just ask and ill try to help ya out

yea man this motor is a lil monster but im not dan hull lol. but dan has this motor moving and it was ported top to bottom cases matched and everything. on 1/8 mile asphalt i run a 17-36 gearin with a 19-10-10 american racer and it runs like a scolded dawg my best time so far is a 6.83 with a 1.38 60' and this was done on a stock frame bike with a 220lb rider so id say it isnt to shabby at all but i got some new ideas when my crank comes back from repair and i should see some mid 6.70's with no problem. as for 300' drags i hardly ever do those but jon lori who also runs the same motor i have has been a best of 4.05 on a stock frame bike with a 150lb rider. it still amazes me how much power and what kinda times a 350 motor lays down at the tracks

dont waste ya money with reed spacers unless u have carb clearence problems and even if u do spend the money and get u a set of aluminum intakes for the bike u will benifit more in the long run as far as reeds get u some v-force 2's or send ya stock cages to a respectable builder or person and have them ported and put carbon fiber petals on them which ever u feel like doing i myself have seen no difference in track times from the stock modified cages as appose to the v-force 2 reeds

mine is puttin out about 94-96hp but thats on alky with 155lbs of compression on a stock stroke drag ported motor.

i dunno much about him but there is a guy in LA by the name of buddy deville over at southern styles racing i would give him a call or give him a shout over on planet sand his user name is TRIPLE. he is a real nice guy and knows what he is doing

whats the plugs look like???

turn the bike over to where the clutch side is facing the ground. and to prevent the ball from seizing up on the rod again u can do one of two things. u can by a clutch saver which u can get from any engine builder or performance shop just about or u can take the stock push rod and ball and heat it red ass hot and drop it in a bucket of water this changes the temper of the steel and make it not weld itsselft together anymore

check to see if the flywheel is true still and if it is try a new nut but be sure to look and make sure that the threads on the crank are not messed up cuz with it coming off like that it can happen and if it has messed em up then most likely u gonna need a new crank but i hope it hasnt done that but just check everything over and u should never have to use locktite to keep the flywheel nut on the shaft. i just always put em on with a impact pretty tight and leave em be and have had no problems

is your builder running a 1-5 override tranny or a 1-6override or a procut stock tranny?? if he is running a 1-5 override there is no way he will got 6.40's with that kinda gear unless maybe he is running a 22" tall tire and still i find it hard to believe a stock frame TRUE 350 will run a 6.40 with out spraying or it being a stroker motor

ok on a set of keihin carbs once u put them on alky u cannot go back to race gas as the needle passages are not replaceable. u have to drill the needle passage out and change the needle to allow the use of bigger jets which u will always have to drill out. in my honest opinion just send the carbs to any respectable engine builder and u can get em done for like 100bucks or so and be sure to get powerjets installed in them as well. and alky for 14.50 a gallon if u payin that much then you are getttin raped badly my friend we pay 3.00 bucks a gallon for it here in sc and keep in mind its cheaper than race gas yes but u burn twice as much so it evens it self out. and a .144main is bigger than a 1/8inch, a .125main is a 1/8inch dead nuts almost and u should never have to run anything bigger thant a .125 unless your carbs are to small or ya pilot jetting and so on is off

i love a lincolon diesel welder but we only have gas powered welders out in the field but they work good but i like to stick weld more than anything but i can mig weld to ive watched some tigging but havent tried it yet but its just about like brazing copper pipe

around the top part of it i put just a lil bit to make sure it seals to the upper case half good it hasnt given me a problem yet so i guess it doesnt affect the seal any by puttin sealent on the top or it where the groove is for the casing

when i put a new motor together i run an extra ounce of oil per gallon than what i normally run for about a week and the first time u crank it let the motor warm up and check it for leaks once u do this and it cools down repeat it again and check the head bolts and so on after u let it heat up the second time shut if off and let it cool down and then crank it up again and go to riding this is what alot of engine builders call heat cycles and almost all of them reccomend doin it with a fresh motor espically a ported one

in my opinion the honda bond is a better sealant than the yamabond i have used both and i like the way the honda bond seals better than the yamabond but either will work find i just prefer the hondabond just make sure its the gray color hondabond its sticky as a mofo u will see what im talking about when ya use it and be sure that all of your surfaces are clean of any old sealant and it doesnt hurt to run a lil hondabond around the seals either

i have run both stock head and cool head on my bike and with the stock head the motor ran hotter than it does with the pd cool head beacuse the coolant flow is much better with the coolhead as appose to the stock head and when a motor is running cooler the better it will perform and last you. another thing make sure u torque the head nuts to specs and recheck them ever so often as well better safe than sorry

is it coming out of the overflow tubes anywhere?? sounds like u got a blowed head gasket and it may be blowing the coolant out the exhaust or u could have a bad base gasket and it could be leaking at the bottom of the cylinder most time if your head gasket is leakin u will get back pressure on the radiator cap when u got to open it after running it awhile

not tryin to be an ass but sounds to me like u are not puttin the head on wrong or somethin unless its a trinity stage 4 head cuz that mofo is just plain junk from day one we run pro-design heads on our drag bike as well as trail bike and hardly ever have a problem with them leaking or nething else. when u put the o-rings in the head do u use grease or sycilicon to hold the o-rings in place? u may be pinching a ring when puttin the head on and it not tearing completely until a lil way down the road

85 weight bel-ray gear saver is the only way to go in my opinion

u can get the steels and fibers from ya local yamaha shop and u can order just the springs from barnett or toomey for about 16 bucks for the set

where are u located?? ill try to get that frame from u in about 2 weeks if u still have it do u have just the j-arms or u have the lower arms to go with them as well ?