shortys racing

well that would just be a normal 4mm with longer rods.....would make a great play motor.....all around power.

32.5 pilots, 320 mains w/open aircleaners (sea level)

your looking close to 150 lbs. compression.....all that will help. Pump gas is still ok up to 165 lbs. comp.

long rods and stroker cranks are 2 way different things. Stroker cranks give your low end & mid range torque (lots of it), while a long rod will just give you a lil' bit more torque and more reliability with your piston wear......

nope, only the 4mm if I remeber right.

don't worry about it, none taken.....

no disrespect but if your looking for more power then go to anyone on that list besides trinity. Trinity bikes run good and are reliable but are not as fast as those on that list.....Just an FYI.

those are custom paint jobs... most range from $500 to $1,000

there is a wet system on e-bay now....

you can get one that has reserve....

should up the compression a bit... 125 is stock, 150 is more like where a banshee likes it.

if it's still all stock and just bored out .080 then it prob. is close to good now. they come pretty rich from yamaha. At least at sea level anyways..... do a plug check and see how close it is and go from there.

20cc domes would be the same as a shaved head .030.....about 10lbs. per cc size. That would be ok for pump gas, but you should run super. not regular!!

sounds like it's lean on top.....go up some jet sizes and it should fix the plug problem......try leaning out the pilot jet too. What carbs & jetting do you have??keep it at +6 or 7 on the timing. Even for dune bikes (ported ones).

think of it this way, a 4mm is 2mm further up and 2mm down..... so you'd have to cut the domes 2mm in the dome. Also the ports would be 2mm higher then normal since the piston is 2mm lower then normal. You would have to deck the cylinders 2mm and cut the head alot. Might as well sell the cylinders and start new. best way to get them right.

I told Lefty this too.... I'll let you guys know since it was brought up... years ago I had brent (Mac racing) do my porting before he had a shop. Now I have a guy that ports exclusively for me. We have worked out what is the best set up for our porting....everyone is different. But I have went through enough cylinders to know what works and what doesn't. Feels like I change weekly, something new. So no biggie, I am open to questions any time.

I sell modified dry systems for alky and gas for $1,000 installed (banshee)

the triples are for more then just added exhaust area... they are so you don't have to open up your exhaust port so wide so your piston falls into it and wears the piston or sticks a ring. That is why ALL the aftermarket cylinders have them. We do some that don't need any welding $500 (full port), and weld in ones for $800, but why would you spend $800 on some cylinders when for an extra $1,000 you can get T-rex or Cheeta ones?????

the stock ones are 26's......I'd go with Mikuni 34's or Kehin PWK 35's...... 4mm needs more velosity then a 350 does, T-5 like bigger carbs anyways.....if your going to switch to CPI's then get the 34's. CPI's like smaller carbs.

actually the charge from the transfer runners blow fuel and air to the top of the piston just before the compression stroke. So when the piston is completely down it is feeding fuel & air and pieces of metal from the bottom end if it's down there. The picture above is a rotax style engine (older snowmobile), that engine is case inducted.

I have a few used sets I'm going to put on e-bay this week......set of chrome inframes $450

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here is one I had at work...I have some of her riding her bike too, just gotta scan them. She has a LSR gas 350......will be on alky this summer.

you want smooth buffs, but they also come in the lighter casing ones (super buffed) $100 set brand new.