shortys racing

I've seen brank new totally stock bikes split the crank.....just a luck of the draw.

well it's really up to you.....I would do it as soon as possible. these things could do it tomorrow or 5 years from now...we don't know. True & welding would cost $45 usually. It's just the labor to take it apart, if you can do that then your $$$ in the bank. Could be now....it sounds more like a growling noise.....

ok I think I understand....no pin on the bearings right??? yeah just use the clip on the drive side, if your worried they will move then run a small bead of locktight on the outter top of the bering before the cases go together.

if it won't kick over then you have got some issues... have to take it apart. If it just won't start then check the CDI box, I had a few do that this year. Look for the seal around the wiring to be broken or a hole leading water into the box.

that 35 you meantioned is per cylinder....and who knows what it can produce at this point? I can still get more with some more mods. We modified this system to work with alcohol. The blocks are billit aluminum. Braided line, same silenoid you guys run with a wet system. NO PURGING the system after alcohol use, no need to. If you guys want to put a wet system on a 4 stroke then thats cool, but when it comes to a 2 stroke it's a whole different ball game. Not many motors on a wet system that I know of live because of the people jetting them. Thats why Dry is a better choice, less to jet, more user friendly. Includes: Micro switches, thumb switch. 2 adj. alum. NOS blocks, small compact battery, plumbing, bottle, silenoid. I charge $200 to install it and set it up. Lifetime tech support. Since K&T and I are the only ones running this system on alcohol then I guess you wouldn't get any info from many people. I get it jetted in in 10 min. max. Can you do that with a wet system? I'm not throwing out a sales pitch here, I'm just telling you what I have been using. i don't have to sell any, thats fine. I'll keep running my high dollar crap and you can keep running your wet. If wets are so good then why do you see more dry now days???? Give me some times or hp dyno numbers from any 2-stroke you know on a wet system.....700cc's and below. Just cause it says a 100hp doesn't always mean it puts that out of it!!!!! just a comparing apples to apples.....NX wet system $713.00 (no install, micro switch, or battery, racer price) so they are not that far apart in price.

don't get me wrong...I'm not knocking your kit...it prob. works fine. I was just throwing out another option. The 22hp you are speaking of is NOT my system, also that was a gas system with one filter not two. Also if you look closer the price on Boonedockers is $695.00 with only 1 manifold....$195 for another manifold unless your gonna run a 250R.....($890 + shipping by my calc.) thats not installed, no battery, & no micro switch either

you need the carb top conversion kit (comes with cable).... runs about $60 for everything

try this......55 pilot, 165 mains (sea level)

who needs a phone, you can tell him stuff since your over there everyday...lmao

think of it this way, a 4mm is 2mm further up and 2mm down..... so you'd have to cut the domes 2mm in the dome. Also the ports would be 2mm higher then normal since the piston is 2mm lower then normal. You would have to deck the cylinders 2mm and cut the head alot. Might as well sell the cylinders and start new. best way to get them right. I don't think that's right shorty. The port timing will not be correct. Jim from passion has put this on a degree wheel. I'll search for the post. if he decked the bottom of the cylinders, then the timing would be lowered is what I was getting at. It is possible to fix it for a 4mm, depending on what port timing your looking for?? Drag, dune, ect. Bottom line, no spacer plate, and cut domes....you retain your crank case pressure and it will run like a champ.....

we usually just run cut domes... We have some available.

Dennis Packard and cheap do not belong in the same breath...... and it's hard to get ahold of Dave (MP Racing) now days... no phone or internet.

rad valves actually slow a ported motor up.....v-force help it breath.....the rad valves were made for a completely stock motor, the opening is too small....

if you like to jump and dune, mild motor with suspension, a-arms, axle......you'll love it.

hmm, i wouldn't say 16 hP by doing nothing. but with a shaved head, timing plate, and aircleaners then yeah prob.

no actually they have worked out good.....I put a TZ drive bearing on them and no problems yet to speak of.

you are quoting a wet system not a dry. Dry has about the same capability as a wet system on a 2 stroke. The amount of the kit is mostly the manafold blocks... Dry system advantages are.... automaticly compensates for altitude & bottle pressure as well as outside temp. It has a veriable injection rate that duplicates your engine demand. No jets to change. Works on alcohol and gas. When running alcohol, you do not need to inject gas as the enrichment fuel. This system is also more consitent then a wet system (perfect for bracket racing). Yes, a wet system does make more power, but both make more then a banshee can handle at this point. I run a dry system on a 10mm stock cylindered motor and have no problems after 6 months.....lot of runs in 6 months. Also runs in the low 4's in the 100 yards with the 2nd to lowest setting so far........

the 4mm's i got from them are welded....

Dex is right, by the time it is making noises it is already rubbing on the sides of the cases sending pieces of alum. threw your motor. Welded crank is the first thing you should do when your bottom end is apart. No exceptions!!! Just a good insurance policy for later.

I would find out befor eyou buy....65mm and 75mm is alot of difference. You can fit a 75mm but the transfers would be small as hell.......

might try the post office... should be alot less then UPS or FED EX, you'd be happier to have someone do it for you then the kit. Unless you are going to trail ride only (mild performance). Plus you run the risk of getting into a water jacket or taking too much out or in the wrong spots....then your cylinders are not salvageable.

what do you have now???

$55 for uppers and $65 for lowers for chromeing....sounds like a good deal to me.

CPI!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

yeah, normally it's only 1.5mm boreable till you start to see daylight beside the slides......thats bad!!!