shortys racing

I was posting this for someone, but it is for sale if anyone wants one.....I have 2 of these. $275 raw.........$450 chrome carrier & brake kit add $165

ok, if you guys would read on the web sites that you put the addresses to then you would already know what i am talking about. Maybe not you specificly but all the same. The manafold block is adjustable for pressure to the float bowl.....the stem that attaches to the block is adjustable for nitrous to the carbs......(IE:how much) by dialing in the pressure (up or down) you can enrichen or lean out the fuel the carbs produce. So it is using the motors crankcase pressures to enrichen itself basicly.....but you adjust it at the blocks. Maybe next time Raxen can let you in on how it is done since he seems to know sooooo much about it.

this is where your not getting it......there is no fuel to pump for the dry NOS..... The carb runs the exact same as it does without the nos. The pressure is adjustable from the blocks to the carb. This way you can adjust the enrichment externally. Thus being able to jet the carb in minutes. Now if you guys would have asked the questions before and not dogged this system telling me wet is better, blah blah blah....... then you would have understood it by now. Just my 2 cents. there is no advantage in your mind.... I guess the problem I am having is none of you guys have put NOS on a banshee.....or if you have it was several years ago. They are kind of like turbos.....you can put one on a banshee and when they run, good they run extremely good... but 75% of the time they break and or run badly.

here is your forced inducted wet NOS system.....

direct injection is injected into the manafold NOT the carbs......actually very close to the head. And if you did your research, then you would know that the motor runs the same off the bottle since they use fuel pressures to change the enrichment on a dry system. NOT jets like wets. Any one else have any questions???

What is a miget? Do you mean "Midget?" thanks for the spelling lesson english teacher........... or should I call you "spell checker" from now on?

lol, man your cool can I be your friend...(don't think so) I believe since you have a pic of a KNIGHT piece under your name you might have mis-spelled your name and trying to cover up now. Gobots are out, Miget tossing is in..... get with the times....lmao

lmao, did Kitt help you with that one Nightrider???

I think this fits this thread for sure....see you guys on WWW.Grizzlyhq.com

this is fun and all but your not reading the full posts...I am talking a 2-stroke system for the 15th time!!! I never said a dry would beat a wet on a 4 stroke. I was talking about a 2 stroke since this web site is called "banshee HQ" NOT, 4-stroke Grizzy HQ....... Maybe they can open a forum just for you guys to talk your smack. Oh and another thing, the record holder for grass drags on a snowmobile has a dry nitrous system..... just a lil' FYI. I don't see too many dyno charts from that pro fogger system you talk about. Did you get those from shade tree mechanic????

So are you telling us that a dry shot just "trickles" into the engine? How do you suppose it gets in there? ok, since I don't know who you are...I'll break it down for ya. I'm sure Raxen can inform you if I missed anything, he's good at that. wet system, shoots NOS/and enrichment fuel at the same time into the manafold, or cases... (after the carbs) there are plate systems but not many people run those any more. Most people are running direct port injection. Poor people run plates now days..... Dry system, fogs nos through before the carbs and mixes with the fuel being fed through the carbs... thus sucking the nitrous into the motor naturally..... "IE: Natrually aspirated" Get it?? Naturally aspirated is a term that the IHRA is using.... wet nos is forced into the motor so they don't allow it to be ran in the pro mod class with blown motors. A dry can be. Both are actually naturally aspirated but I am stateing what they would allow since you are quoting drag car racing. Soon Top fuel cars will be running a dry system (spraying before the blower hat), they have been trying this now. works well.

10's???? GSXR's will do that......we use those in our mini buggies. Turn the boost up on that thing.....I thought those ran 9's from the factory?? No balls, no falls.

My friend is running a wet kit on his CRX, with the jets he's running it dials in right at 90-100 horses (shot of gas, not total HP) NEVER had a single problem, must have been sprayed well over 50 times...I heard the dry shots do give you a "little" more power but the wet shot is much safer and easier controlled. I don't know ANYONE around here that uses dry shots, only wet...I don't follow you either shorty, ALL NOS setups are naturally aspirated; why the hell would having a wet shot be considered otherwise?? Aside from all that, $1000 for a Nitrous kit is highway robbery, doesn't matter if it's for a car, quad, spaceship, scooter, whatever....We ARE entitled to our opinions.... I know 9 sec. civics running dry nos systems, maybe your friend should try a dry system, they were actually made for his application. If he tried a dry then he would make the switch for sure....But you CAN have your opinion thats fine. You guys can keep running the family vista cruizer thats fine......lol

natually aspirated as in it's not being forced into the motor like a wet. Thats why Pro mods are either blown or nos injected....a dry system can be both blown and fogged and still be called a naturaly aspirated in the rule book. Just quoting the rules at some tracks thats all. The carbs do not have to be taken off to rejet with this system. It uses fuel pressure to richen also like a rice burner. It's ok, you guys can think what you want, i'll be runnin' this system at primm this year. you can see it there. OUT!!!

once again, I will let you know. A wet system on a 4 stroke is nothing....it's just like a car. Put one on a 2 stroke then tell me about it. Since your vast knowledge about this 2 stroke system is limited to 2 people (not even banshee's) I would kindly ask you to not bash anyones price, or system, and mind your own business. It is up to the bansheehq members if they wanna spend that much $$$ or not. I make these kits cheaper for everyone, not just HQ members. So if you don't like my price or my system say la ve'. P.S. most of the import racers are running dry NOS systems......there are only a handful of actual wet systems out there still. Why? Because the dry system is still concidered a "natrually aspirated" system. End of story.

if your not used to a twist throattle then don't change, most everyone that changes and are not used to it end up on their back after it wheelied over on them.....

this ones better......

I have stock pegs if your looking for some????

I have a yellow set....

I have one on e-bay with the box right now......search under sellers QUADPRO26

works work good for TT or flat track. If your talking stuff like the nationals then I would say PEP or Elka's. but for local stuff works makes good shocks for that. Can get them in different lengths too.....lower is better for flat track.

try taking the weight off the spring and then spinning the spring with your hand the way you want it to go...IE: tighten or loosen. Have to loosen the lock ring first though.

better then rad valves but I have still to find a better cage then a v-force. The closest one is running blaster cages w/ boyesen reeds.

they run about like a T-5 Toomey

it's in a box waiting for ya at the shop........ yeah I haven't seen ya in a while..lmao