shortys racing

unless it's beat to hell thats a smokin' deal.....pick it up

I'll take your T-5's and $325 for new chrom inframe CPI's

I have a whole assy.... axle, hubs, ect.... $200

I have some used ones for $30

how much for the cases??

I have a few items on e-bay.... some low $$$ stuff but alot of really nice chrome stuff. http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?View...5&since=-1&rd=1

I'll sell ya a coil for $25......$30 shipped, or you can pick it up since your in oregon

I have 3 sets of stock a-arms that are in good condition.... $200 a set

wiseco's work better on a banshee.....Pro-x's are cast...they work good on hondas and stock banshee's. Banshee's turn more RPM then a 250R so you run the risk of failure. Forged is always better then cast.....stronger. I lost a few cylinders to the Vito's ones....done with it, fixed or not. Not worth the $$$ if they fail for the lil' bit of performance they give ya.

The Cheetah is the Trinity variant, has power valves that give you a more ridable powerband. It changes port timong in the lower and midrange then opens up as you hit the top end. The t-rex has no power valve. If you're draggin or hill shootin, you won't need no steenking power valves. all the t-rex's had powervalves....just up to the builder if they wanted to use them or not. I use them on all mine, but some say they don't need them for drag racing. I run long hills too so I think they are beneficial. The main difference from the T-rex to the cheeta is the cheeta is a nikilsil bore, and a t-rex is a cast iron boreable sleeve. The cheeta is not a boreable sleeve unless you are re-coating it. This takes some time to do (1 to 2 weeks). so if your play rinding them or not pushing the envelope, then cheeta's are the way to go. if your going to make any jetting mistakes or are worried about it then the t-rex's are the way to go. Be sure to have the castings cleaned up if you buy the t-rex's....they are bad when you first get them!!!! Personally i like the T-rex's... stock stroke mono blocks are NOT worth the $$$$. Worthless tractors....port your stock cylinders and save your $$$. With a stroke the cheetas and t-rex's run hard..... They make the same amount of HP and run the same so it's really up to you.

you taklking about the vito's pistons?? Cut in the front for more exhaust timing?? But that leaves the transfers stock height....this will make it a lil' pipey.

I have 1 of these now . $275 raw.........$450 chrome carrier & brake kit add $165

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMESSE%3AIT

here is a pic

lmao, yeah we can put it on a 70cc 3 wheeler and watch it rip.....

i think CPI inframes are a better choice, but if you are going to leave your bike stock then T-6's are for you.....if you plan on porting it later then T-5 are better. But if I had a choice between all 3 I would go with the CPI's..... You'll thank yourself later.

I was talking about the same thing (bowl pressure).....I can up the bottle pressure with heat so thats no problem. Don't really know yet, haven't got a guage yet....will have one by the next time we run it. What i was saying is that I believe that the motor will fail before I turn up the NOS enough to have a bowl pressure failure. There is alot of adjustment left....

they are molly.... lil' lighter then a square tube lonestar.......we are about to start making the 3/4 tube LW swingarms (waiting for material) if your looking for something lighter.

I'll take the rear hubs and the radiator...

I have a complete banshee ignition....everything listed below is included: High watt stator flywheel (I have 2....so lightened or not lightened) wiring harness CDI box coil advanced timing plate (max of +6 degrees) $300 OBO

sorry forgot pic...

I'll giveya $75 shipped.

what size is it now????

thumb throattle...how much???????

taper bored?????