vmaxup

So DICK your going to tell a guy to start drilling a hole in hi cases and were do the shavings go IN the motor right and then your going to tell himuse a magnetic drain plug right? You said feild Repair . Did he say he was in a field because if you are Ill arange some Guys from WI to come get you out of that feild

Sorry I should of wrote DICK

The arrow allignment is correct you found it. As far as the notches in the basket goes it is normal wear but from the factory it is smooth. What I have done is take Basket out of motor. get a smooth file and smooth it out. This what I was talking about earlier in this post if you nothes are really bad your cluch plates could get hung up on them. After this adjust the clutch how i stated above. Then chek it with your clutch lever connected. quarts of oil and your ready to go

Foxbansheeracing That is a tricked out Shee. But im confused did you buy it that way or did you do the work yourself. It said Hison clutch so havent you been in there before?

ok take the cover off pull the clutch plates by removing the bolts with the springs behind them. oh just noticed your a FLATLANDER. Just kidding Im from Wi originally is it cold there? If its welded you wont be able to get the cover off then reread my post above and go from there.(tap with hammer) Trust me your just learning this. No big deal. You will know it and you can post the fix next time.

Im sorry my bad The gear on the back of basket is rivited to the basket. Sorry

No why?

Sdd I thought we were all strait. I hope I DONT see you in Glamis for Easter. The shit is ON!

SDD so here we go again I see. Your going to tell a guy to drill a hole in his cases. I thought you were straight but must be on crack. Also since you never had the Rod in your hand. The new one will be blue on both ends it is heat treted. Here we go again SDD read the fucking post then reply you f*ck. You say if anything is blue from heat its no good? I guess you just talk shit to piss me off and thats cool. Like watch me piss him off. You know were not here playing school games we are here to help others fix and get answers about there Shees. So put some JB weld over the hole so the oil wont leak out. Good one and I supose your driving a John Deer to work too. The reason you cant get the so called thingy out with the spring is its WELDED A BIG PIECE OF SHIT from the end of the rod. Re read my post above. This is your problem. Exspecially out of oil? You pry on that thing untill your blue in the face. Its not coming out. DId you even open up the clutch side yet?

run it me just 10w30 castrol GTX. No problems and 5 years on clutch

rocky mountain atv has rebuild kits o ring ball and spring fo 10 bucks 18003365437

I read this because we used to take the fairy from WI to Silverlake. And your season is just starting and next week No more Glamis its getting to hot Easter is the last big weekend. I live in AZ now. Dont worry my Whip still says Silver Lake. Everyone is like were is that? I hate winter and dont really miss the snow. Maybe its time to visit Home with the shee soon.

you can use a kurt syle machining vise but not very stable. Or I built a little fixture to run bolts thru th spark plug holes to a flat plate and then hold the plate in the vise. run a stone over spark plug openings before attaching to the plate. I have also spun mine on a cnc lathe to do the domes and new squesh. I made a plug with spark plug thread mounted in lathe Did each bore seperatly

No rubber spacers toss them . Fiber goes on first the metal than fiber. Last one should be a fiber then the cover

I say 3 of each but thats me some guys have stronger hands and some have an old lady. ok there are some arrows on the basket face hard to see its like stamped on there by a 3 year old. then there is arrows on the outside of the clutch basket cover they must oriantated so they line up. Yor just putting this cover on you will notice if its on wrong because it wont sit down all the way. Then put your clutch springs in. For the adjustment. Move the cam were cable connects on top of motor (have cable diconnected)so it has an arrow point that has to be linned up with the other arrow on the case. Then at the same time turn the phillips head on the adjuster with jamb nut loose untill you feal it hit the ball on the in side. then tighten the jamb nut (LOCTITE) and must be tight. I am asuming this nut was loose if everything else was not welded together. This was your problem I think. It just came loose.

Well nater how do you get the rod out when its mushromed back by the cam. Nater should not of replied to this one. Ok its about 75 bucks worth of stuff. Look in your book for the picture. You will not need to replace the cam you cable is connected to. just grind of the melted metal from the rod. You need The Rod The ball The adjuster adjuster sleeve and nut. Full gasket set. Yamabond You do need to split the case to get the rod out. First thing you should do is see if the ball and rod will come out. use a magnet if they wont come out there welded together. Usally when you take all the bolts and springs off the cover will come off easily. If you cant get it off tap the adjuster with a hammer this will break those welded parts apart and you have to replace it anyway. If you look at other posts its like bad clutch month or something. Some guy has a gear problem and is going to split the cases without taking the whole motor apart. I havent done it that way but I guess it would work if your careful. Read that post give you some ideas on what i thought. Good luck then run 2 quarts of oil not 1.6

Since your this far get a magnet and pull the ball out then the rod if they look ok your good. Sometime the cam were your cable hooks to will be welded to the rod or the ball. I know you can move it just take them out and look at them to make shure there ok. The rod will be a blued hot color on both ends because ther heat treated but thats normal. If everything is ok put the new clutch in and adjust the adjuster on the cover. Before you put your cover on work the clutch lever and see if its working. Do you know how to correctly adjust the clutch at the basket?

must be in gear

Dirt digger works awesome. I had mine running for almost 5 years and just running motor oil. Last trip to the dunes I bought just the clutches and no plates and springs. Put them in at Glamis and ready to go for another 5 years. If this is your first get the the whole thing stock springs and metal are no good. Also toss the Big o rings you dont need them. One more thing I used half of the springs in the kit and spaced them out. Not so hard to pull with some of the stock springs with the new ones

Sound like a bitch. You have to make shure everything is sitting in the bottom end all nice and pretty. When everything is sitting right the gears should spin freely. Then use Yamabond. You will have to set the top end on to the lower. Otherwise the gears will fall out. You must split it faceing upright. You have half clips on the bearing groves that half to sit in the lower case correctly. your forks must mesh correctly when its open. Your forks are in the lower case and the gear clusters sit on top of them. If you try to just put the lower case back on upsidedown your gear will not mesh with forks and you have no way of telling if you got it. I would split it up right you can remove the bolts then flip it upright. open it up nothing will fall out. just make shure your crank stays with the upper half of the case with the cylinders. Then fix your problem in the lower end . Yamabond then set the upper half down on top of the lowerhalf upright. Then flip it over and put your bolts in. Are confused yet I am. I dont know Im worried. Just because I usally go through the whole thing right side up. How do you know your tranny is bad if you havent taken it apart yet.? Just thought I would ask? Maybe its something else?

the single pin goes in the back and all the little pins are to the ouside. I would not use loctiet on this part phillips head will hold fine. Just nxt time you take it out it could rough. You know philip heads suck. dont forget to readjust the the lever with the grabbers on it. Its in the clymer book

I broke that pivot adjustment once in half. Then it came loose once. You have to have it adjusted correct. This pin is bent from the factory so you can adjust its like a little cam. I thought it was my shift shaft. Thought it was bent. I was stuck in 5th and 6th those little fingers that grab the posts on the shift star were out of adjustment.turn it while in any gear and it should si equal distance between the pins on the shift star. I reread your post and ill bet your just out of adjustment. locktight and a 12 mm will hold it with that bent tab washer. But back to the question just take off your clutch cover and remove your shifter. Then just pull it out. I do remember. And im shure it was you. You told me to put some rubber washers on the out side of the electrical cover between the shift lever. This gets ride of the slop of the shift shaft moving in in out. It works Great

Loading everything for Glamis except my shee. Paddles should be here on Wen next week leaving at 5pm better be here. And yes it is ported. Nydahl Crank and machine in WI set me up. I have another one thats a 96 thought that was ported till I got the 98 running with this new port job. At OLDS in Glamis it really pulls hard in 4th Im all ready in front but 4th just pulls you to the top. Anyone else use 9 paddles?

OK HAVE THE NORMAL PIPE PORT K@N pRETTY FAST . pROBLEM WENT AND ORDERED 20X10X10 9 PADDLES THEY WERE OUT OF EIGHTS I HERD 8 PADDLES WERE THE WAY TO GO SHOULD I GEAR DOWN OR JUST RUN THEM. do I JUST GET MORE TRACTION? ANYONE RUNNING 9 PADDLES INSTEAD OF 8 ? WHAT DO YOU THINK?

Her is the most common flaws with the She. I know there more but check this BALL AND ROD WELDED ON CLUTCH fix RUN 2 QUARTS OF OIL FUEL RUNNING OUT OF CARBS WHEN NOT RUNNING fix ADJUST FLOAT HEIGHT BACK FIRE fix BY A NEW COIL NUT COMES LOOSE OFF AXLE FIX LOCTITE 2 PIPE WRENCHES AND SOME DUCT TAPE OVERHEATING FIX LOOK IN RADIATOR WHEN COOL AND REV ENGINE SEE COLLANT RUSHING BY IF NOT REPLACE GEAR THE TEETH WILL BE GOOD BT THE INNER BACK SIDE IS MELTED AND YOUR IMPELLER IS NOT MOVING nOW YOUR GOING TO SAY WHAT ABOUT JETTING. THESE THING ARE ONLY LISTED IF YOUR SHEE WAS AND I DID SAY WAS RUNNING GOOD SO OUTSIDE OF SOME DIRT IN THE CARBS OH HERE IS THE FIX ADD AN INLINE FILTER EVEN THOUGHT THERE IS ACTUALLY ONE INSIDE THE TANK LAST BUT NOT LEAST ITS TOO FAST FIX BY A FOUR JOKE OK SO WHO IS GOING TO BEAT UP THIS POST FIRST???????????(sdd)???????(fixitrod)?????????(boonman)??????????????????(cant wait)