itsmyforte

why does the ass end not align properly with the frame. try as i might i can not get it in line. the quad doesn't seem to pull but the left side is definitely more forward than the right standing from behind. is this normal? the chain however looks stright.

it does not matter what the DCR value is given on a subwoofer. impedance changes with frequency. a home amplifier will work on car subs just as car amps will work with home subs. just match the impedance value with the output power at that given impedance rating. however given most car amps are of low quality they do tend to work better at lower DCR values. car amps are flawed by their power supplies, they are normally all made the same no matter what company makes them because they all use PWM supplies. audiobahn is not a hi-fi product, however they much like all the other manufacturers pretty much make the same stuff all in china within the same 10 factories. i work for a high end speaker and electronics company and have a background in speaker design and amplifier technoligies. IMO its better to have a high sensitive woofer wtih lots of BL. its a known fact that any woofer can not make high spl's without one of two things. A. long excursion smaller cone or B large cone shorter excursion. its a trade off one must decide depending on the application. its hard to make high spl without a large enclosure because the suspension of the woofer needs to have the correct amount of compliance in the box as its suspesion. problem is speaker manufacturers lie about their theil/small parameters, and publish specs based on one woofer they chose. their tolerances on voice coil placement in the gap is usually poor. these are things that plague a good speaer from a bad one. if after you read this and don't understand a word i said thats fine becuase i wouldn't expect you to. if i could test every woofer out there i could tell you who is good and who isn't, but i can't. i am forunate enough that i can design a woofer and have it built to my specifications for my particular application. i can however suggest to you a few choices i would pick for an off the shelf woofer that most can afford. Kove, Stryke, Eclipse Ti, Peerless XLS, Dayton titanic, those are some that i would recommend. if anyone would like some more information i may be able to help you out by choosing some amplifier loosly based on the specs according to what woofers you have or are going to buy. I am by no means an authority on speakers or electronics but since i work in the industry and have a degree in electronics i do have pretty good knowlege of some aspects, and I am a huge music fan so i have had many speakers and amps over the years. whatever you choose or already own can sound good if its setup properly.

got a web addres for the motofast and dyno port? how do these stack up against the paul turner's? where is a good place to shop for all the pipes discussed so far?

i pretty much only ride trails and some quick sprints through the yard. i want the best pipe for trails and not loose top end, just as long as its as good as stock is. my mods are 2nd oversize pistons(fresh top end) stock carbs no airbox lid with UNI filter and thats pretty much it. currently it has Toomey slip ons but i can't tell fro the life of me if the headers are T3's. they are all black but have no writing on them at all. they don't sound real pingy or anything special but sounds ok. i'm not really concerned with awesome sound, but if they sound good then thats just an added bonus. my future mods will include some sort of aftermarket head with changeable domes, a 2 into 1 manifold/carb setup and probably a set of aftermarket reed cages if need be. hope that helps choosing the best pipe for me. i searched the site and it appears its between DMC, PT mids, or cpi's. can someone post links to these company websites and do input your opinion on these and what your suggestion would be. thx

nice! guess i don't have to email you and tell you the latest news. btw 2 rules to owning Honda: 1. it must be RED, and 2. paint that heat shield bright red and put on a slip on pipe. other than that unless you go bigger bore and cam those 400's don't do much besides use more gas when you "bolt on" mods.

it appears that after i have been working on a wired basketcase and in need of a tune up banshee that i am trading it for my 400ex. it is a christmas present for a family member and my uncle decided its way too much power for his son. i ofcourse was estatic but i told him if he changed his mind at any point i don't have a problem with it. lets see i am trading a $3k quad for a $1500 shitter. hmm.... naw it runs like a raped ape but is in need of a cleaning and some new drive components.

set it up, you takey paypal?

how much u want fer it?

you've got mail

need an unmodified stock airbox lid. may take a modified one depending on whats done to it. just need one, don't care if its pretty.

located just south of Indianapolis, IN. quad is in good shape T-4 slip-on, k&n in stock air box, properly jetted, AC front, AC nerfs. just a good solid running quad. $3300 neg. or possible trade for other quad (banshee) ??

tried to email you i think it was returned, you now have a PM.

forgot to mention i don't have an airbox lid so it will be open, also i now believe the pipes are a T3, not T5.

62 pilot WTF? i would call trinity or who ever made your 2 into one manifold carb setup and ask them. they will get you in the ballpark.

thanks for the additional info, makes things much easier when you know more about the products your installing.

first let me say this quad has not ran since i aquired it sunday. i am putting a whole new wiring harness and cdi, coil, blah, blah, blah.... so i am pretty much cleaning the shit out of this quad and getting it prepped before i start it. it has stock carbs minus the TORS. stock or replacement reeds in stock cage, T5 full system, boost bottle, stock airbox setup with new Twin Air filter. the pilots are 25, and mains say 270. anyway i can tell if these are dynojet or stockers. also how can i tell if the needle is stock or aftermarket? dunno how it ran before because it didn't run when it was purchased. i have the carbs spotless and am now ready to get a ballpark starting point for jetting. i am in central indiana, but not sure what my elevation is? any help is appreciated.

trade you for a YM 100 straight up!

send yours to Falicon, they will make one better than new.

that should work, do u know what year its from? from information i've gathered it appears they are all the same except for an extra wire on 94-up. i assume the whole 97 kit i purchased will connect to a 93 stator. oh well if not i be cuttin wires, fuk it! btw, THANK YOU!

anyone know where a wiring diagram is posted for the banshee? have a 93, but am putting a full 97 wiring, cdi, coil, regulator....blah, blah, blah. need to get a photocopy of the diagram asap. ordered a manual but who knows how long it will be before i get it. gotta get this fixed, its for a christmas present!