itsmyforte

i got stockers with no tires. or i can throw on some sand fronts for some more $$.

i have one on order, i will know probably next weekend how it handles the task. I'm skeptical becuase one time i ordered a MOOSE clutch kit with the plates, fibers, and springs for a warrior. i completely trashed it in one day. it was $30.

i hope they get their shit together, i am suzuki fan. all hail the GSX-R!

the header flange should line up but beyond that i don't think it would fit work a poo. however i think the rd was tuned for top end not bottom so unless you want that i wouldn't try using those pipes.

that black/rd rd350 has a honda vfr swingarm and marchesini wheel. kind of a waste if you ask me. i think the rd/rz was made until 92 but only available in canada and japan. want a bad ass production bike, look at the 85 GAMMA. v4 2-stroke. all of yamaha's 2-stroked engines are based off of designed from the 70's.

what you need? i have some LT500 parts lying around surely there is some common between the two.

i have 4 Klipsch KSB 2.1 bookshelf speakers, and a pair of Klipsch SF-1 floorstanding speakers. will sell all as a package if wanted. the ksb's are a 9.75 out of 10, and the sf-1's are an 8 out of 10. SF-1 $175 pair ksb 2.1 $100 pair ksb 2.1 $100 pair these are some of the speakers i have just sitting around. i am willing to trade for the following items: -2 round housing swingarm(may consider stock length but must be round house) 2 into 1 manifold and carb setup aftermarket head with changeable domes considering other parts as well

lets not forget the H1 and H2 kawasaki engines of the early seventies.

are you saying this comes with a m/c and calipers or just the complete hoses?

well if its stuck then you broke sumptin! first undo the carbs and reed cages, then look through with a flash light, see if the piston is broke. if both look ok then take off the stator cover and make sure the flywheel didn't loose a magnet and jam up. lastly, this being the pain in the ass side of things, take off the clutch cover and inspect the idler gear, and kick starting shaft. anything else in there should be very obvious.

you've half way answered your own problem, this tells me the problem is electrical, most likely a faulty cdi box or intermittent coil, and or stator. have you checke these items with a multimeter to verify if they are good or not? have you checked to see if there is an open in one of your wires?

can u see it now?

what is the clutch cushions? where are they located? i am in the process of changing my clutch to a TUSK. all new fibers, plates, and springs, what do these cushions look like?

if its a full DG system then i'd start out with 280 and put the needle clip on the 3rd from bottom.(pointy end) see if that doesn't get you in the ball park

link to pics PICTURES!!

i should look before i speak doh! ok the airbox has been cut so that it accepts the slip on filter and not the cone shape so the twin air filte i purchased was useless. i think it has a toomey air filter and toomey needles in the carbs(i think, there is no markings on them) i am now 99% sure the head pipes are not T3 but stock so it appears it just has slip-on toomeys. i set it up with clip on 3rd from pointy end, 25 pilots, and 280 mains. this thing starts the first or second kick and i don't even use the choke! it hauls ass! seems to be a little boggy in high mid range probably due to the bigger main jet. i think if i put on a new full system it would be just right. btw i am leaning towards a Paul Turner pipe midrange series (see other thread)

depending on what area your in its either a 200 210 or 220

all ready checked all that. its gotta be the stupid ass mounting of the bolts/chain adjusters. i will double check all the above mentioned ideas tonight and see if i missed anything.

do you mean it won't flip out to the side to kick it? Can set it up to kick but when you do its frozen?

go HERE, fix your problems for CHEAP!!

will measure and test for swingarm mount loose when i get home tonight. but i highly doubt anything is loose. problem is i can't get the carrier stright which in turn makes the whole axle/wheel assembly crooked.

on single cylindar machines all you have to do is wrap a wire around the spark plug tip, then push on your cap. the other wire goes to any ground on the frame. the hot wire then goes to the tachometer(any tachometer). thats all thats needed, this should still apply for a banshee just use one spark plug, both plugs will be doing the same thing.

just fix what needs to get you riding again. save the other mods till next winter.

its the whole carrier/axle assembly. a buddy of mine had the same problem, i think he got tired of fighting with it and left it crooked. there has to be a way to straighten it out. only think i can think of is if the swingarm is bent at the frame but i don't see how.

Mooresville, IN