superchicken

200 mains are stock,with a k+n you should jet it up a bit.but im no expert on jetting,as for thoughts on going leaner bad idea.also whats your elevation?

hey minkia were did ya get that sticker?

its right off 168,it gets kinda busy in the summer.i i go there for my own test and tune time.pretty open and not bothered by cops

so he wants shocks that come from a warm climate,i didnt think they used different oil below the equater

thats up around tuckerton or bass river isnt it?

AMEN to that

near hamonton,atlantic county

theres a nice pit near 295 and 42 near penco tech

deffinately gonna have my banshee,my wifes even gonna give it a go on her 250ex.

thats nuts but an average price.look through the jetting forum and most likely youll see a settup like yours and just try it.i like to stay on the rich side if in a pinch,better to have fouled plugs and a little less performance than a wiped top end.

has any body ridden the Moonshinehill Climb in west virginia,or pioneer hill in waterford,ohio? just curious my be taking a road trip this summer

were abouts do you live??

i agree with led.read it first and everything will come easily

im certainly not trying to scare him just putting all the cards on the table so he can see that it isnt a fool proof system.alot of variables to play with and its certainly not a hook it up and push the button kind of deal.

i didnt mean that you have to rebuild your engine after the first few times you use it.lets face it if its set up right you wont have to rebuild no often then you would if you didnt have nos,but if its set up wrong,start saving up.

nos is safe if used responsibly,and your she is set up right.But prepare yourself for a rebuild after the first few times you "hit the button"beings that is the only real acid test.

theres a small black box under the gas tank.unplug the wires going to that,thats the tors brain.make sure the key is on and the kill switch is on run,push the switch back and forth a few times it might be dirty inside

if u ever rebiuld your rear brake piston and find it pitted or rusty heres a easy fix to smooth it out. get ahold of a cordless drill get 2000 grit wet or dry sand paper a can of wd-40 put the piston in the chuck of the drill,dont over tighten it or it will mar the skinny end and you will hav a leaker. spay the piston with the wd-40,and also the sand paper. start at a slow speed and keep it wet.takes a few minutes and it will look like new. its like a getto lathe!

dosent matter aslong as they get juice

did you ground the spark plug when you tested it?

been to it a few times live not to far away.if you search the web for wildwood,new jersey you may get a few pics and dates

the cdi box is under the seat

i love my fattys gets me through the trails and pull to the moon

thanx,just have to wait till my cast comes off my wrist or better yet maybe i can talk to the wife about helping me wrench tonight!!

this may be a silly ? but how the hell do you get fmf pwercores apart to repack them.ive un-bolted the 5 bolts that hold the outer shell on but cant seem to get it off.i dont whant to start beating on them,i like them without dents.thanks