Ducman

Sounds like they might not know what they are doing and probably do mostly top end port jobs so they might not have a clue how to do more of a MX port. Sounds like you would have been a lot better off with just a "clean up" port. If your stuck with the jugs you might try the Gnarlies or fatties, they may respond to the porting a little better but I dont know if they will help you low end much.

Damb was that alcohol +nitro or just alky? Virus is probably from all the porn Don't let that norton antivirus subscription run out or I swear you'll have computer AIDS the next day. Thats what happened to me. Probably sent to my computer by Norton to teach me a lesson and sell more software license.

The best advice I can give is the more time you spend getting it sanded down PERFECTLY smooth the easier it will be to polish and the better looking it will turn out. If the paint stripper doesn't work on removing the paint, then use the brillow pad looking abasive wheel (the finer grit lighter colored softer ones, not the dark coarse grit harder ones) and a drill or grinder.

There are many different grades of AV gas and racing fuel. You need to look at the octane rating on each to be able to compare apples to apples. I am not familiar with the additives in AV fuel and I had never heard that the octane was rated differently so can't help you there. As for me, I go to a local petrolium distributor (Northern Energy) to get the gas I run, 100 octane unleaded made by 76, its not considered a "race" fuel because it doesn't have any lubricating additives like a typical race fuel its just more highly refined. You can pull you car up and pump it right into the tank where as the race fuels you can't. The stuff burns super clean too and leaves very little soot (light gray colored) compared to 91 pump fuel (dark black). They sell it for $3.10 per gal. At the same palce they sell other brands of race fuel that are 104, 108, and 114 octane also for $4, $5 and $7. Many towns have ditributors like this, check your phone book.

In the area I live $3000 would be a total steal if it is in good condition, but CA is way over inflated.

Theres nothing wrong with exposing the aluminum. It will need to be cleaned and or buffed to keep it looking bright and shinny like when its firt buffed, a little more maintenance. Look in the immages section, there is a how-to on buffing. I would get a dremmel or better yet a Roto-zip if you dont have one. Use a paint stripper to remove the paint so you dont sctatch up the surface. Scratches and inperfections have to be sanded out of the surface before you can buff it. Use an orbital sander and/or a detail sander to sand the surface smooth. Use the smallest grit sandpaper you can to get out the imperfections and achieve a smoothe surface. Probably start with 320 then go to 400, then to 600. Nest buff it with a sewn cloth buffing wheel. The 8" bench grinder ones kick ass but you need about 3/4 hp bench grinder to run it or 1/2 hp for a 6" wheel. Youl still need the dremmel with a 2" cloth wheel and 1" felt wheels to get in the tight places. It could possibly all be done with the dremmel. Get some buffing compound (Tripoli) at possibly sears or I get it from harbor freight to use with the buffing wheel.

The whoops must form just like moguls form on the ski slopes. Material piles up and the power only gets transmitted to the ground in the troughs so it keeps piling up material. Give me a D-8 and a lazer level and I'll flaten er fur ya in 4 hrs.

Your jetting sounds good to me.

240 should be close, plus or minus a size or 2, its hard to say for sure. I haven't heard from a lot of people just installing the K&N and getting the mains diled in to know exactly what works from other peoples experience. Air temp and altitude could + or - a main size. You'll may have to do a little trial and error. Always do a plug chop as the first thing you do after rejetting. If it is bogging at WOT use the plug chop to determine if it is due to being too lean or too rich and adjust the mains accordingly. If it feels good still to the plug chop to verify that you arn't still too lean to be safe. I'd invest in a set of pipes as soon as you can afford them, they respond to the added air flow much better than stockers and have more data on jetting changes with various mods.

I bought a house 1 1/2 years ago in a gated community across a creek from my relatives where I grew up riding in the creek a lot. Its a strange gated comunity because it is in a very rural area and the housing density is very low. I dont have neighbors right on either side of my house like in the city or anything like that. The location is in rolling hills with a large creek (more like a river) and a realy big river (Sacromento R.) that the creek feeds into. The creek gets very low in the summer and the creek botom riding is awsome. You can follow the creek upstream for miles. The property behind my house is "Greenbelt which means that no one can build or do anything to the land, it has to stay O' natural. All of the houses are built on the ridge tops, and I have killer access to the creek by just riding down the ridge and following the ravine to the creek. The creek and river has been soo flooded lately that all the riding area is under water. I've made quite a few hill climbs in the ravine area and that I think that most are far enough away from the P.O.A. that they are technically in the greenbelt although some for sure are in it. You can't see any of the hills I climbed from any of the houses unless you went for a hike which nobody ever does. Anyway, I got a letter from the property owners association where I live the other day saying that someone had called in a complaint that I was "Tearing up the greenbelt on a 4 wheeler" and that was in violation of the rules. Someone must have drove up and down the roads looking for me or it could have just been someone driving by and spotted me washing my quad and decided to nark on me. Either way they didn't ever stop and say anything to me. I've talked with all my close neighbors and they all say they don't have a problem with me riding my banshee. The only thing is, I wish I could have talked to the fuckin busy body that narked because I would like to clear one thing up for them. Tearing up greenbelt doesn't even come close! Any pussy on a dirt bike could do that. I fuckin ripped that greenbelt a new asshole and gave it a thrashing like I was beating a read headed step child. Anyway, I guess I was bad, so now I'm warned. I pretty much expected it sooner or later with all the old farts, soccer moms, tree huggers from the Gay Area moving up north, retiring with nothing better to do, living in the community. There's no friggin way that there going to keep me out of that creek come sommer time though, so I guess I'll have to be really sneeky and not hit the band untill I'm out of earshot and park the shee behind the house to wash it. Maybe a set of toomeys withat a hush kit is in my future. I wish I knew who ratted so I could try that roundup in a balloon trick. Just had to share that with ya'll.

For your riding, suspension, but porting would cost a lot less $.

It's all because of the GDMFCSucking trial layers and tort laws along with sue happy A-holes that take advantage of the system. This shits got to stop! Its the same reason why they quit making the quadzilla and haven't ever made a new banshee = liability

If you don't throw enough oil down the toilet then them damb allegators in the sewer can get some traction, climb up the pipes and bite you in the ass! Out here in CA we just let the CA Government f*ck up out water supply by mandating stupid shit like MTBE in out gasoline so we can pay $0.20 more per gallon than anywhere else and get cancer from the ground water it pollutes all the while running an inferrior gassoline, but I like to help out when I can.

I can't tell that my cool head helps in overal cooler running temps, but it does seem to make a big difference in the short run. Mine use to overheat much quicker with the stock head when doing a hill climb. On a certain hill I climb, with the stock head it would give you a wiff of radiator fluid and a spit some out if I stopped at the top of the hill without letting it circulate some more fluid through the motor. Now with the noss head it seems to be fine. I think the cool heads have much thinner domes and less overall mass than the stock head to act as a heat sink, so it transfers heat to the coolant faster, but that doesn't affect the average coolant temp because the same amount of heat will be transfered to the coolant just faster with the cool head. I believe the overall operating temperature of the banshee is controlled by the radiators ability to heat exchange with the air not the heads ability to transfer heat to the radiator fluid. So in my opinion it helps in the short run but the overall coolant operating temperature isn't changed with a different head unless one head was able to dissapate heat to the air better than another. I believe that is why NOSS advertises that his head ran how ever many degrees lower in a drag race than another because the coolant would all be at a low temperature to start and the head would transfer the heat away faster, thus lower head temps were measured. But if you ran the banshee for 20 miles and started measuring temp at 10 miles there would be no difference in the average head temperature.

I just find the nearest storm drain, preferably one that leads to salmon spawning habitat. JK But seriously, aren't some motor oils for 4 stroke moters with detergents bad on the O-ring chains; disolves all of the grease and/or lubricant that is supposed to stay inside of the orings?

I have heard from a very reputable mechanic I know that the capacitors in the Nology wires that give the spark a little extra Kick, wear out fast and then the wires essentially become the same as a regular high performance wires in a short time. He said that they are pretty much good for racing only because if you use them to ride all the time they will wear out fast. They cost a but load of money too. I have had friends that bought them and swear they make a notable difference though. Definitly noticeable in the pocketbook I say.

Generally for dragging and hill climbing in sand the straight paddles are best and tend to have the most hookup. Some people like the striaght paddles best for all around dooning too. The best all around dooning, truning/sliding, and side hill traction (in case you are going across a sile slope and not up the slope) are generally V shape paddles. Most paddles are 8 paddle tires if they dont say how many, and usually only the straight paddles come with more or less paddles than 8. I've heard the BGC paddlemasters have great durability but are heavy and dont hook up as well as many others in the sand, I haven't heard anything on their regular straight paddles. The best deal I've found on straight paddles (tip from Ledofthezep) was from Jims Sand Toys on the Sand King turbo paddle, (580) 824-2021. However I heard many good things about and went with the ITP Sand Stars from Rockey Mountain.

Make it so the slot in the aluminum chiguderas doesn't cover the hole in the slide.

Leaded gas is a slight bit harder on sparkplugs in a 4 stroke but in a 2 stroke I dont think it makes much difference. Just don't put it in your car that has a catyletic converter and everything will be fine.

The reason you are seeing such a wide range of mains for a given set of pipes is due to the large difference in air flow you can get depending on the way you set of your airbox and filter and some temp and elevation differences. In your case the K&N will flow a lot of air and the airbox lid mods you describe will flow prety much just like removing the lid. Therefore you will be at the higher end of the range on the main size for your pipes. Starting rich is always a good idea. I'd say the jetting that you should be at for sea level 60- 80 degrees when your all dialed in would be: #30 pilots air screws 2 turns out Needle one position richer than stock (4th clip from blunt end) #320 mains I think the 340's may be a little bit too rich but I wouldn't count on the 320's being perfect but probably the closest of the mains sizes you bought. You may want to get some #310 and 330's do dial it in perfect or adjust for air temp & elev. differences in the future. This could be off a little so you need to perform a plug chop to verify the jetting on the mains. If it is colder than 60 - 80 then the mains may need to be larger, if your at a significantly higher elev (+1500) then you may need to drop a size on the main.

Ok, I'm pretty sure I'm starting to understand. Without the stroker plate you just cant use long enough rods to make a big enough difference. The 795 pistons will allow for a longer rod but not long enough. Thats why you need both a plate AND the 795 pistons. The stroker plate under the cylenders is probaly the easiest way to make the stroke length work out and the thickness can be varried based on the lenth of rods you choose. The longer stroke changes the porting intake/exhaust flow dynamics so I can see why you would need porting and it might run weird without it. Even with just the long rod and no added stroke the piston speed would be different durring the stroke than with the stock rods and change the port dynamics. With the stroker crank, long rods, and correct stroker plate you don't need any special head work or special domes for a aftermarket cool head right? Just the correct dome size to yeild the desired compression just like on a stock motor? So what rod length is best to use with a 4mm stroker crank? Would it be up to the engine builder doing the portwork to match the stroke or are there some sort of guidelines or engine power tradeoffs for going longer or shorter? Do you pick the rod lenght first and match the porting or pick the rod based on the porting. The O'l chicken VS Egg.

I saw a trailer at Cost Co. the other day that was really nice that would be a perfect size to haul 2 quads for $650.

More accurate than trying to read the # of ounces of oil left in the quart of premix oil through the window in the side of the container. I think they are about as close as you can or need to get. Typically the larger amount of fuel you mix at once the more accurate it will be but it is sometimes it is more convienient to be able to mix one gallon at a time and there will always be slight inacuracies but they are un detectable and negligible.

Thanks for the complements. So far my work has been limited to modifying the Ducati 748, 916, 996, 998 canisters. I plan on expanding to other Duc models and japaneese sportbikes as well, but for now I got all the work I can handle seeing that I already have a full time job! It all started with getting into aluminum polishing. I haven't even thought about a Banshee exhaust yet. I dont know if the stock silencer is even worth messing with since the stock pipes suck soo much. Has anyone ever tried a set of stock pipes with a freeflowing silencer? If they work 1/2 way decent it might be worth a try. I could make a set of Ducati 748/ banshee silencers, they would probably look really cool and I have hangers that would work too, but banshee silencers typically have have a much smaller core (25mm) than the the duck (50mm). E. Bos is a bad ass too, may become my new favorite

If there's anything that I've learned from selling and buying stuff on e-bay is that you have to have PATIENTS! And don't shit in your own back yard or front yard and don't burn bridges. I've done good business with people that I had originally thought were really bad at replying or slow at shipping paying ect. Personally If I have a transaction in progress I check my mail daily but thats just me. Your in a loose loose situation and both of you should settle your business like Gentlemen and take your agression out with the Banshee not with words on this site that will make both of you undesirable to do business with.