Ducman

Loyds of London Are you worried about theft or about wrecking it to the point it is totalled. Home owners insurace should cover it at home or theft from your property, try adding on coverage through home owners like Led said.

Dont forget air is is highly compressable, water is not. You can stuff 100 cubic ft of air in a container that is only 1 cubic foot and the presure inside the tank will go up. If you try to put any more water than 1 cubic foot in a 1 cubic foot container then the pressure will go up so exponentially the container will break. You could fill a 1" thick steel tank completely full of water with no air voids, seal it, and that sucker would split wide open if the water froze solid. Ice expands to about 108% of the original volume of the water and would make your pipes 108% of their original size too, not good. The ice method will work fine as long as you really keep an eye on it like you said and dont let any water freeze clear solid in any section of the pipe like in the stinger section or it will crack and/or stretch that sucker. I would suggest agitating the pipe freequently to prevent any part from freezing solid and if the dent doesn't pop out before the ice starts freezing solid in the pipe then stop. Leave just a little air in the pipe to give the ice room to expand and so you can tell if the water is getting slushy or frozen when you shake it.

I cant believe you just grouped the RC and TLR w/ the Mille and 996... ... .... ..... Hey Ducman did you go to DRA? Didn't make it to the DRA, had too much going on, never been to LV either so it would have been fun. Ducati Island at Laguna Seca durring the WSB race is good enough for a duc overdose for me. The Italian twins are definitly nicer than the rice twins, way better attention to details, styling and there is no better sounding twin than the ducatis IMO. The dry clutch gingle really sets the duc appart from the rest. But if you didn't want to pony up the extra $7k for the 996,998, or 999, the RC51 is a pretty sweet ride too. I'm an equal oportunity haul-asser, I don't discriminate based on class. As for wheelies, V_twins are really nice because they pull from way down low so you can do power wheelies a lot easier and they have a lot more compression breaking that kicks in instantly when you let off the throttle so you never have to worry about looping it backwards. My first gear revs out at about 60 mph (stock gearing), no cluch required for 1st gear wheelies and I weigh 250. 2nd gear revs to 90mph and a little clutch is involved to get the front end up as long as the rear wheel isn't too worn otherwise you spin the tire. If you weigh less than 200 you wont be able to keep the front on the ground very easy in 1st through 3rd when it gets close to the redline at WOT. If your in to all out acceleration then get the gsxr 1000 or other in-line 4 cylendar liter bikes are for you and they wheelie pretty easy too. If you want a road race machine that will stirr your soul then I say get a twin. The PL&PD insurance is always pretty cheap, make sure you get a solid quote on full coverage though (comp and collision) because thats where they get you. There are only 2 main insurance carriers for high performance bikes too. I've got GMAC insurance for $500/year now and I'm really happy to get that rate. My insurance was $400 one year for full coverage $500 deducatable which is as good as I have ever heard, the next year they wanted $1600, no joke! I have a friend that wanted to get a 748, no riding experiece, they wanted $3000 per year for full coverage, so no bike for him.

T-5's, K&N, 260 mains - your pretty friggin lean on top. You should be more like 300 on the mains with the air box lid on with the K&N, doesn't explain why it is poping at all rpms though, but if you run really lean you will heat things up and cause funny things to happen on all other jeting circuts as well. You are probably not jetted correctly on the pilots either. Try screwing your air screws in and see if it will idle then, if you get the screw within 1/2 turn from seated the go up a pilot size. If it does you are way lean on the pilots and need the next size up. Cleaning the cabs out is n't a bad idea either just to rule that out you can do that when you put the bigger mains in.

You might figure out a way to plug the ends and presurize it with air or water, but if Toomey will fix it for free or fix it without wrecking the chrome then do that. Sticking a welding rod to it and heating the area with a torch works OK but looks like crap.

I don't know this for a fact, maybe somebody else does. I've been told that when blending fuels if you take lets say 92 and mis it 1/2 & 1/2 with 110 you cant always say the result will be 101 octane once blended. It could be significantly less. Thats what the petrolium dealer told me when I asked him about mixing say 114 and 91 pump. It may have something to do with the fact that most race fuels use lead to bump up the octane rating, so when you blend it with a pump gas that is unleaded it dilutes the lead significantly and changes things in ways so that can not be calculated as a linear result. There was no significant gain or loss in the amount of money I would spend at the petrolium distributor since the 114 cost 2x as much as the 100 octane that I buy there so there was no sales motive for the guy to sell me one or the other fuels. He just recommended that I should buy and use straight race fuel that had the octane requirement I wanted because with blending you might not be getting what you think you are. Any thoughts on that?

To keep the domes from falling from loose from the bottom plate of the cool head, I just put a bead of grease around the top side of the dome near the base and it stuck to the plate good enough to stay put. I use a sort of water resistant grease that is a bit thicker and stickier than the standard back stuff. I believe you can just set the domes over the cylinders and line them up with the bottom plate when putting it on. As long as you get it realy close the steps and little tab on the domes will line them up.

Not trying to be a dick, but 2.5" is actually 63.5mm (there are 25.4mm in 1 inch) Yeah, but they probably dont make wrenches in 0.5mm incraments that big so I just figured I'd go with saying 65mm. I knew if I didn't say ABOUT 65m someone would say something. You HQers are just too damb smart for your own good.

V-Twin pasta rocket for me please! I've had a Ducati 996 for 5 yrs now and I won't ever sell it. It's not exactly practical, comfortable, economical, but thats not what I bought it for. Yeah $500 tune-ups and $400 worth of tires every 3k miles sucks but the cornering and overall perforamnce is fanominal. I owned a cbr 600 and a zx600r and I can say this without a doubt, once you ride a hot v-twin, duc, RC51, RSV Mille, TL100R, you cant go back to the buzz box, but I'm glad I got a lot of street experience before I got the duc because it is not as forgiving as a 600 going into a corner too hot and does take a lot more skill to even utilise its potential. I haven't ridden any of the newer 600's in the last couple years but when I went to the 996 from my ZX6R it was about like going from a sproty high reving Nissan Z to a road race muscle car like a Dodge Viper. If you are inexperienced then a 600 is all you need for at least 2 years. If you haven't owned a street bike before and/or cant get some insurance through your home owners insurance then a new bike, or one that you make payments on will kill your wallet on insurance alone. Even with experience and a clean record dyou have to shop around like a mo fo for a good rate, and most of the new crotch rockets are sky high for full coverage. The SV600 (v-twin) that someone suggested might not be too bad on insurace, cost only about $6K and a good entry level sport bike if your going to buy a new one, but no where near as fast as a cbr, gsxr, ect... R. I'd suggest a 92' on up CBR 600. They are bullet proof and the most comfortable of the bunch. Get one that you can pay cash for and your PL&PD won't be over $350/yr if your a good boy. If price is no object get the new CBR1000rr out this year, its suposed to be bad ass. All the newer liter bikes have insane HP and feel and handle like your on a 600. I've got about 50-60K crotch rocket street miles under my belt and I still love it!

Sand is 100% compacted at all times unless it is in a kind of airy fluffed up state from hill climbs and wheel spin but has very low cohesion unless wet and even then it is low. Plowed soil has like 40% compaction with a lot of cohesion if it has even a small water content. The sand is in essence harder than the dirt but looser. When your going slow in the sand like first gear it really bogs you down more than dirt but once your up to 3rd or so you have a lot of traction and can get on top of the sand unlike the dirt which keeps trying to compact beneath you. Hope that makes some sense to you.

I've got a big ass cresent wrench that works well and doesn't mark up the nuts like a pipe wrench. I think 2.5" is pretty darn close that would be 65mm but dont go out and buy a wrench based on that, close enough for a cresent though.

I like the wihchester bay dunes for the tall hill climbs. It is the only place you can ride all night long at if you want, kinda crazy seeing it has all the tallest doons and drifts, but it is only 5 square miles because they wont let you ride beyond a certain point and no beach access. You can ride from camp to the doons at most of the campgrounds there too. Most people on banshees run haulers. You dont need a strech swing arm unless your making a lot of HP. I was there this weekend and didn't see anybody checking for noise, on a banshee, probably any decent silencer would do, other locations might be different. The sheriff was doing donuts in the sand in the F-150, seemed way cool. At Coos bay (horse falls I think?) you can also ride from your camp to the doons and on the beach and it has a bigger riding area. From Florance (north) to Coos bay (south) approx 120? mile stretch there are many excellent places, you cant go wrong.

Maxima - Castor 927 cause it smells purrrrdy. I went from Yama 2R 36:1 to Maxima Castor 927 40:1 recently and I didnt feel a darn thing. Seemed to smoke slightly less, probably due to the slightly highr ratio. The 2R hides the smell of the race fuel and the Castor adds to it but doesn't cover it up. Yeah this might sound dumb, but does that polished water pump cover do anything for performance? No! but the bling makes ya feel good.

The compression ratio on a 4 stroke = (the volume of the cylindar with the piston all the way down pluss the head volume) / (divided by the head volume). So I guess the volume on a 2 stroke would be the (volume of the cylinder where the piston has just closed the exhaust port pluss the head volume)/( divided by the head volume). I believe the exhaust port variable is why most people just measure compression to get PSI. Also on a 2 stroke the dynamic compression can be very different than the static compression due to all the hot gasses stuffed into the cylender by the presure wave created by the pipes as the piston closes the exhaust port. Not quite as different with a 4 stroke unless you have a turbo or another type or forced induction.

At 3/4 scews out on the air screws, you should probably go up a size on the pilots, probably richen the needle 1 clip (4th clip position from the blunt end). Change the needle and add some aftermaket reeds and that may help soften the light switch effect of your pipes. 2 into 1 carb may help too. I think the pro circuts lack bottom end from what Ive heard, but have a big mid and good top, so it comes on hard. Also, my pipes felt mellower comming on the band after adding a cool head due to more torque down low. My pipes stay pretty cool most of the time but they all will get really hot after a serious hill climb even with correct jetting.

No, you putting race fuel in the tank would through! God damb I'm being such a smart ass right now. Maybe I better head back to the roosting room. Ans: Yeah, I'd say with +4 go to 1/2 race 1/2 pump to be safe, but I know I've heard a lot of people running 93 pump with 155psi and +4, too close for comfort for me though.

If your riding on the beach it helps a lot to keep it above sea level

If you want to be able to pull 5th and 6th in the sand real strong then toomeys, my Gnarlies are pretty weak in 6th unless I'm on pretty flat or packed sand. I think that for WOT hill climbs in 2nd and 3rd the FMF's are nice because with the low end you don't have to clutch it as much causing the front end to reach for sky, if you let off the throtle for a split second. With more mods, cool head with 21, 20 or 19cc domes, timing advance, airbox lid off, lightened flywheel, reeds, ect, that add some low end grunt and/or low end acceleration, you may not need the low end from the pipes as much and just loose top end HP potential with the FMF's. For all around dooning and just playing around I say FMF fatties are perfect and cost less too. If you want to get serious and plan on adding a lot of other mods then get the Toomeys.

Dittmer, I know that you are mostly right, I won't argue that the sole use of private property doesn't belong to its owner. My family owns probably a combined 400 ac so I know how it is. The green belt land is owned by the property owners association so in a way I own a piece of it and I want to ride on my piece. This is probably not the type of community that you are thinking of, it is an unusual gated community. Its has a very low housing density and it is in a very rural area. I only have about 8 neighbors that live within 1/4 mile of my house, although there are a lot of buildable lots accross the road and beside me but none behind my house, each lot can only be bordered on either side, not in back. If any of my neighbors had a problem I would certainly quit riding any where near them, but they are not the ones complaining, just some jackass that probably doesn't even live on my street who wants to be the neighborhood cop and hapened to drive by while I was washing the banshee. My family has owned property on the other side of the creek for over 50 years now and has never objected to people using the creek and its banks on their property for horse back riding, quads or hikers, and no other property owners on the creek does either. This is because it has been the same owners for decades and won't sell to any liberal Bay area assholes swimming in money because they are all there to stay. You can ride for probably 50 miles up the creek bank when the water is low enough in the summer to cross the creek and nobody tries to fence it off, you couldn't because the creek floods every winter and washes everything away. Hundreds of people use the creek to recreate and nobody tries to stop them cause it is understood that this is the way that it has always been and this is the way it will be in the future. If I have to push the quad 100 yards and coast down the hill I will be riding in the creek. If I have to leave the bansh across the creek at my Uncles, i will be riding in the creek. I drove 8 hrs in an RV each way this weekend to go riding and I didn't go outside the doon boundaries or ride on the restricted beach so put that in your hill billy bong and smoke it!

U huh, possibly #30 pilot air screws 2 turns out.

The sand was pretty darn good, not to cut up at all. The faces on most of the big hills were pretty moist which made for sharp edges and good jumping. I saw a few dudes (bikes and quads) do some jumps, the kind of shizzel you only see on those videos when your at the dealership counter zoning out waitng to buy some parts! Baldy got a lot of action but the ruts wern't to bad. There was a butt load of people riding, I saw more banshees than I have ever seen previously in my life out this weekend so I might have seen the shee and the R that your talking about but I don't remember.

I highly doubt it. On a Ducati 996 when you go from the stock highly restrictive stock pipe to a slip-on system (canisters only) with a straight through un obstructed flow and using an aftermarket fuel injection chip calibrated for the slip-ons you go from about 100 rear wheel HP to about 106. So on the YZF, I'd give say 5 hp tops as a high estimate with the pipe, jetted, and airbox lid removed. To get your friends 18 hp you'd have to add cams, a bigger carb and whatever else you could possibly do to it jsut short of N2O.

There is still a fallen tree right after the S turns that is pretty damb close overhead. The sand gets soo soft that you get crazy wheelspin going up that sucker towards the top making you have to "work it" a little after the s turns to get to the top. Not an experts only hill by any means, but hard enought to make it a little exciting. One of my favorites at winchester. I've got an MPEG of that hill climb on my make-shift digital camera "helmet cam" thats pretty sweet that I will post soon. Its cool because I go by a banshee that is stuck on the top section, looks realy cool.

A lot of 2 strokes like some of the newer 125 MX bikes (like 1995 up) only have 1 ring on the piston and the pistons are pretty light weight and made of softer aluminum material than the banshee and if you dont redo the top end pretty regularly and you ride it hard you can blow the top end pretty easy. The banshee motor is quite a bit tougher and longer lasting.

Ah Yes, I finally have some personal yzf450 experience. I was at Winchester Bay Oregon this weekend and was climbing a chute known as "Baldy". I went up behind a couple yzf 450s, one looked to be just piped, the other stock. I weigh 250 so weight advantage wasn't on my side. I started out quite a bit after them and I was climbing us their asses by about 2/3rds of the way up at the "S" curve section in the trees and then could accelerate past where it opened up on top as long as I didn't miss a shift or something stupid in the s turn section. I was able to shift into and pull 4th from about 1/4 of the way up to 2/3, to the "S" turn where yoiu have to slow down to make the turn. They might not have been trying to go as fast since you have to slow down at the "S" turn anyway, and it may have been different if we were actually racing, but usually most people go at it all out. My shee isn't that highly modded and I had Sand Stars, they had haulers. With my low/mid pipes my shee rips in 1rst through 4th, but gets weak in 5th and pretty wimpy in 6th in the sand. Those 4 strokes pull like tractors though and make it look like it took a lot less effort; less shifting, not needing clutch feathering like the shee sometimes does to get back in the power if when it bogs , and the YZF stay in their broader power range easier. I would have to say that the YZF would probably be easier to get on and go faster for an inexperienced or intermediate rider. I heard another story at camp though about a YZF that was fully modded, cams, carb, U name it, ect, that was drag racing anyone that would race, raced 19 banshees and only 1 fully built stroked banshee could beat it. Moral of the story... In the end a Banshee still won!