Ducman

When my thumb gets tired and needs a rest, and I just want to cruiz around to get from point A to B, I reach over the handlebar and grab the throttle with my fingers.

Fixitrod - Exactly what I thought. Sickboy, I'd check the compression again with a different tester or something to be sure, because with 21cc domes the compresion shouldn't be that high and the power pistons should actually lower the static compression a bit. 180psi is about what you should get with a 20cc dome at sea level.

Yes sinsay, we students can be trickey in our words Oh honerable banshee master.

Holley shit! Don't get me started! I work for the CA D.O.T. construction dept. and have to deal with ALL the BS rules generated by the tree huggin MFers every day! Unfortunately it is my job to enforce upon the contractors building the highways many of the rules tree huggin rules Think about this, 1 diesel semi truck burns around 1 gallon of diesel in 4 to 5 miles and thats at cruising speed on the freeway. Thats about 10 galons per hour for every semi on the road (but your also talking about a lot of our economy riding on those wheels). I burn 5 gallons of fuel in the banshee in an entire days worth of riding and that only happens every couple of weeks! Basically it doesn't even equal a drop in the bucket in the big picture if you want to sum up all the hydrocarbon polution and divide it into each of its individual contributiors. If you really knew how many of your hard earned dollars that go to fedral and state taxes went to the enviro-bulshit waste fund it would make you sick! (need a smilie that pukes here)

You can get those little scotch brite pad like material sanding wheels for the dremmelf, about 1" diameter, from wallmart for about $2 for 2 of them. They will get into the tight corners and hard to reach spots. They will get it down to approx 320 grit. Then I take a 400 grit sand paper wet-n-dry and cut a little 1x1 square and hot glue it to te end of a dremmel sanding drum or 1/2 inch grinder stone. Then I use a little finger action with the 600 wet-n-dry to get a little random sanding pattern so you dont leave any swirl marks and then hit it with a 1" felt buffing wheel on the Rotozip with the emery compound or a 2" cloth sewn buffing wheel if it will fit in the tight spot. One more tip is, use a Rotozip instead of a dremmel if you can, they have 5 times as much power and make the buffing go 5 times as fast. The chuck will hold all the same tools as a dremmel and can hold 1/4" bits too. The only bad thing is they are a bit bulky, heavyer, harder to get into the tight spots and only have 1 speed - 35000 rpm, but wont bog down at all. I funally bought one after burning up 2 dremmels , Home Depot - $60, still going strong after much hard work.

There's so much of this scam crap going around! I was originally going to buy a used banshee and the three lowest prices on ATVtrader.com were all scams! There is real a section on ATVtrader.com that tells how the scamers operate and how to identify scams that was 100% right on the money for each of the 3 scams I came accross.

Oil, smoke, all sounds normal. It can get pretty oily if you idle it or run it and fart around without getting it up to speed and ride it at WOT every once in a while to get it cleared out and ride for long enough to stay at operating temperature for about 10 minutes. For Gnarlies, you need 270 main jets for the following: 45 degrees, air box lid on w/snorkel removed, foam and/or stock air filter and no other mods. If you got you banshee with the Gnarlies already on it, it probably has #260 mains in it which are going to be a little lean at 45 degrees, but I wouldn't just assume that. I would go ahead and put 270's in it that way you'll know it is right. If you put the pipes on yourself you must install the main jets, stock #200 mains wont work at all and will be way way way too lean.

Forged butter or cast margerine, which is the best?

300 mains are too small I think.

Thats for a 5mm stroker crank right? The question was about a 5mm long rod.

In CA it will never happen! Any rights and privleges only dissapear and will continue to go away untill were are a fully socialist and then a communist state. I really wanted to get a GP road bike for my wife like a Aprilla RS 250, but I couldn't find a way to get a street leagal one in CA (lagitimately) that was newer than 1990 or so when they quit allowing new 2 strokes bikes to be or be made street legal. Still want to get her a 1990 Yamaha TZR 250 some day through. Almost all that I have found have been made into race only machines though and would have to made back to street legal. Some states allow certain uses of roads by quads that have turn signals, ect. If you are in a state like that, you don't know how luckey you are.

If your wifes scared on the banshee the rail will probably be scary too. A couple weeks ago there was a guy getting some huge air in a rail, way more than I had the balls for going up the same hill face and it didn't look like he had way more travel than most any other rail. It seems like they would be a bitch to get unstuck though where as with the quad you can just pick up the rear, move it and go again, although I have never seen a rail stuck though. I think a turbo 4 cylinder rail would be the ticket!

A Long Rod Crank Wont increase the engines CC's, the long rod just makes a smaller angle between the centerline of the piston and the centerline of the rod when the piston is at the lowest part of the stroke which reduces the side load on piston skirts and adds reliability and potentially piston life on a high performance ported motor. It also increases dwell time where the piston is at the top and bottom of its stroke. I has the same questions a while back in this thread

Like somebody else said, I too use different colored cans and mix only one 5 gal can with oil at a time. I use the 927 also and yeah, you sure cant tell. I think I might go ahead and put another dose of 40:1 in a can that I wasn't sure if I had mixed yet that way It would be either 40:1 or 20:1. Then only put 1 gal of the unknown mix at a time in the bikes tank with 2 galons of gas that I knew was 40:1. That way I'd be either geting pure 40:1 or 33:1 which would work fine also and not waste any gas.

What... They dont do the clown car thing at the circus anymore?

You can make your own kit for cheap, or I bought the vitos kit for $25 I think. I don't think that the blaster jetting follows the same exact jetting reccomendations as the banshee mod for mod, because it is not as high performance. Its main starts at 230 and when adding pipes only you go up to about 250, 260 on the mains, on a banshee you go from #200 to at least #260 with pipes and remove snorkel. Definitly start using premix though, I regret waiting to do it, although the ol blasty probably needed rebuilding the bottom end anyway. I think the oil injection starts to get out of calibration when you start adding a lot more fuel and air because the oil injection keeps putting in the same amount of oil, although it starts out very rich, so ????

What kind of fuel do you plan on running? 91 octane pump gas, or mixed 1/2 with race fuel, or straight race fuel? If your at sea level you'll need at least 1/2 mixed or possibly straight race fuel with 19cc domes.

Those flat slide 28mm mikunis look like a pretty good deal. What about the choke though. Would you be getting 2 completely separate carbs with 2 separate chokes to turn on and can you reach the choke on the right side carb when its on the bike and behind the left side carb? Or can you get them as a pair with the chokes linked like the ones on the stock banshee carbs?

Does any body know how much if any I would need to trim my bunny ears to fit the rocket pipes. My machine sees some mud and sticky dirt a lot of times and I can't part with them and dont want to screw them up. Any body install these with the stock front fender platic? Please let me know. Also how is access to the carbs. Can you easily take them off for jetting changes with out removing the pipes? Thanks

1rst off, dont base your idle on a plug color from idleing, base it by adjusting the air screws and where they make your bike idle the strongest and give the best off idle throttle response. Worry about being lean on the top end and concerning the mains. Sometimes plugs can get wet and oily or look totally clean and the bike is still jeted fine on the pilots, but typically yes after a long time ideling they should get the plugs a little bit brown, not dark like at WOT though. Secondly you need to have both air screws adjusted evenly and you dont want them less than 1/2 turns from being all the way in or more than 3 turns out or your in the range where you need to go up or down a pilot size. If the 2 cylinders are not running evenly then it is possible that you need to check and/or resink the carb slides. The FAQ has a good description on how to do this and its really easy if you still have the TORS. You may have it adjusted too rich on the pilots if its spittin fuel, but the pipes often get loaded up with fuel when your dickin around with pilot adjustments and could be fine once you go WOT and clean her out. If you tinker with the idel too long I'd go take a rip, hit the band to clean her out, and then go back to adjusting or you may be making adjustments that are fighting the system getting loaded up with fuel at idle. Hope this helps, I'm guessing you were probably pretty close when you did the first plug test and the plugs came out looking clean.

Cast and forged have about the same yield strength material but forged have the ability to go beyond the yield point, suffer some plastic deformation, and not break where as the cast are more brittle so they fail quickly once stressed beyond the yield point. Forged material has a higher toughness value, kind of like material after it has been cryo treated, and has a slower mode of failure.

If your bog is just "off idle" I'd say try tuneing your air screws. Make sure shees warm, turn them in 1/2 turn and see if it gets any better, try another 1/2 turn in see if it gets better yet ( or keeps getting worse) and figure out what setting works best. The air screws are easy and take no time to adjust so try them first. If they dont solve your problem or the bog is a bit higher in the throttle position than "just off idle" then try going 1 clip richer on the needle.

Custom tapered needles do make a difference on the needle jet circut, change the rate at which the needle lets fuel in the carb, usually the same as stock at 1/4 throttle but let more fuel in than stock progressively from 1/4 to 3/4. Kind of runs like it is on the stock clip at 1/4 throttle and 1 clip richer by 3/4 throttle if I understand how it works correctly. You don't need them, stock is fine. Heres my jetting recommendations for your pipes and filter at sea level, 60 to 80 deg. air box lid off: #30 pilot, air screws 2.0 turns out needle in stock position (3rd clip from blunt end) #330 mains Due a plug chop to verify mains, start at #330, and tune airscrews to shees likings

Supply more fuel - yes, make a difference - no

Your pretty darn close right now if you are running near sea level, so definitely would need to mix 1/2 & 1/2 I'd say.