Ducman

When I went to 34mm carbs I found that I lost a lot of clearence between the carbs and the stock airbox which made the carbs a nightmare to get on and off. This was due to a combo of larger(slightly longer) carbs, longer than stock bilit intake, and I think v-force added a caouple mm's to. I went with pod filters. I got foam filters for the dirt and K&N for the sand. Way nicer to work on now.

Sure doesn't sound like it to me. Did they give a reason other than the cosmetic screwdriver damage? Also, a new aftermarket head is no more than $265 including domes.

what supposting mods do you have and what type of fuel (what octane) do you plan on running?

Typically if your not having any problems with fuel over flowing from the carbs or starving for fuel after a long time at WOT you dont need to mess with the floats. It doesn't hurt to check and see if they are to spec but I wouldn't worry about it. About the only thing I can think of is check to make sure the O-rings are in the pipe flange that go over the exhaust ports on the cylinder and put a bit of grease on then so they slide on easy and seal good. If they are missing your stock pipe O-rings will work. Put the expansion chambers on first with springs and loosely bolted then the silencers. Somethimes it helps to unbolt the front fender on the lower bracket to get the pipes on.

Hmmm, gues I will try to hold a hose to the line into the radiator (from the water pump) and flush the whole system out then.

Sweet, make a post in the general section when we will be able to watch it on TV or tell or when we can get some details off your web site. This will be good publicity for you guys. Can't wait to see what kinda nutty bike they try to build in 5 days and see Jessy run it.

It was over a year ago so let me scroll down my shit list a ways and see if I wrote down the name. Just kidding, like I'd write down their name. We'll sounds like Trinity is trying to build a good reputation, I'll put you back on my might buy parts from someday vendor list.

I wan't to throw out a guess, Jessie James - monster garage drag banshee? Even if this doesn't happen somebody still needs to make a set of billet Malteez (SP?) Cross rims and mount them up on a drag banshee.

Woah, I hope your wearing your flame retardant suit today. Was going to say somthing about your dealings with PassionRE's stroker motor but I see that this topic in other threads is more heated that I care to dive into. As for Trinity, when I called I got people that were banshee clueless and couldn't answer any questions then called later on and asked to talk to a person that knew what they were talking about and but he seemed like he was in a hurry to get me off the phone and the price for what I wanted was too high. Customer service sucked. I wasn't impressed.

Like SDD said. You loose static compression when the exhaust port is raised so when you measure compression you will get a lower # but dynamic pressure goes when you get "on the pipe" in the upper RPMs up if done correctly. If you get a fairly top endy port job with high exhaust ports and get real low static pressure, it does hurt the bottom end a lot and can be compensated for somewhat with smaller domes but only to a certain point before the smaller domes start to hurt the top end performance. I had this delima with my 4mm stroker when I first got it going, 125 psi and a top end shaped dome/squish aprox 19cc, I got some new domes fron NOSS, 145 psi more of a midrange dome approx 18cc and it helped the botom end a lot, top end was a little better tool. To answer you question, if you do a mild port then no, if the exhaust ports are raised a lot then you might want smaller domes.

If you are set on toomy's, you've answered your own questions. I do believe that the TR-6 is better all around on a stock bike but T-5 is better with mods. If you were only considering a cool head and timing I'd go T-6, if porting/and bigger carbs is in your future then go T-5.

Only way to change port timing is to remove material from the cylinder around the port opening; making it larger. When you raise or lower the port by removing the material on the top or bottom of the port making the opening to the cylinder taller you change the timing.

If you get some reasonably mild porting with stock carbs I wouldn't worry about it.

Pick a good oil and stick with it. Mix the oil you pick at the recommended ratio on the bottle. Yamalube is best at 32:1, others are 40:1 or 50:1 What you are experiencing is not all that uncommon. You may be a litle lean on the jetting. This may sound a little strange but a good way to prevent overheating is to do a couple WOT runs up into the higher gears and get some airflow through the radiator and some fluid circulating through the radiator every 10 minutes or so. If you are only in 1rst or 2nd gear your not gettng a lot of coolant through the radiator. When I'm at the dunes and running slow windy trails it will overheat pretty easy but almost never when I'm in open spaces or on fast hill climbs doing a lot of WOT riding.

They'll fit and run fine.

Those 28mm would probably work with the stock manifolds and intake boots. You'd just need a new throttle cable if you still have the TORS on the stock carbs. Stock is 26mm. If your .080 now, I'd get new sleeves installed (either stock or bigbore) or get a good set of used cylenders with a few bores left and then get the porting done. I think standard domes work up to .080

I would ONLY run out of frames on a bike that is stricktly a drag bike, otherwise stick with inframes. If you tip it over with out of frames your going to F*** up your pipes. You can run them but why do you want to? For looks? Your only going to look cool untill a real drag bike pulls up side and smokes you.

If you get top end porting and big carbs it will reduce your mileage a fair amount but not by more than about 1/4 to 1/3 less if you ride it similar to the way you did before. If you get one of those grab bars with spare gas can you should be able to make it the same distance as before. Maybe your friend just dont want you to be kickin their ass. Let me guess, they ride 4 strokes? Also, I have heard a lot of people swear that a single carb setup is a lot more fuel effiecient.

21cc domes, maybe 20 with 93 but that is pusing the envelope and probably wont work with timing advance. bigger dual carbs when you get some serious porting done or a 2 into 1 carb will improve power and throtle response from bottom to top a lot on a stock to mild ported motor.

Maybe a buyer feedback system like flee-bay except a moderator could remove a negative feedback if it was BS like retaliation for neg feedback you left when the other party screwed you over. Thats the problem with e-bay is that people are afraid to leave neutral or negative feedback when they should.

The directions on the jug says not to mix/dilute and to flush the system first and then fill with engine ice. Will engine ice not get along with standard radiator fluid or water that's in the system? Do I need to drain the system and flush with water and try to drain out every OZ of water in the system, or just keep it simple and drain whats in it and fill? I'm a moron for having to ask this question but this shits pricy and I'd like it to last a long time so I figured I'd ask. I got 2ea x (2 quart=64oz) containers, that should be plenty right? Thanks in advance.

probably like most people, when your spending $500+ on pipes, you go by a little bit more than word of mouth. 287990[/snapback] Not many people put Rockets on stock port banshees that intend to keep it stock for very long. I had them on my shee with stock port for about 2 monthes and then I got ported and stroked so here's some more word of mouth. I had FMF's before that and all I can say is for the small amount of bottom end I lost, I gained a whole shit load in the mid and top. That was measured on the seat of my pants dyno.

Banshees do fine on the trails. They can overheat if you are using a lot of power and not moving forward very fast for a long period of time (to little airflow through radiator), but overheating a little bit is typically not to big of a deal. If you were into just playing in a mudhole not moving forward very fast for long periods at a time a banshee would not be a good choise, but just going through mud on a trail is a hoot on a banshee. If you get nutty with it be prepared to be wearing mud from head to toe cause shee's like to fling the mud. You must rejet the carbs for mods like pipes K&N filters and such, but if done right you will never foul a plug or burn up a piston. Banshees can be more reliable and less expensive to maintain than a 4 stroke if you do things correctly. Your friends are just propagating misinformation that they heard from a friend of a friend.

Like FIRST BANSHEE has, mill head 25 thou, + 3 or 4 on the timing and lighten flywheel are all best bang for your buck. I know all the -2 swingarm guys swear by them, but I really don't see how they keep the front end down in any kind of terain with decent traction especially once you do some mods to get a few more ponies going to the rear wheels. Get the timing plate, I've heard many stories of aftermarket degree keys getting cracked/broken and comming out which will completely throw off the timing and possibly cause detonation if it goes in the timing advance direction = new top end. Supposedly if you torque down the flywheel good and tight with an impact wrench it shouldn't happen though. If you do get a cool head definitly go with a NOSS head. Customer service is top notch!

No. A different stroke length affects the timing of all the ports in the cylinder. If you go from a standard stroke crank to a stroker crank you will have to update the port work to account for the different port timing. Also, you will need to tell the builder that you intend to go to a stroker crank later on so they don't alter the ports beyond that which will work on the stroker setup. I think where you guys are getting mixed up with the plate it according to PassionRE, if you want to be able to go from a stroker back to a standard crank, you can if you use the spacer plate, but you can't if you don't. This is because the exhaust port in particular will be raised too high to go back to a standard stroke. If you use the plate with a stroker crank, the plate raises the ports in the cylinder in respect to the position of the piston/crank. I would seriously consider how much money you guys are planning on spending and what you really want as an end result. If you are going for the all out drag banshee for the dunes then you are on the right track. If you intend on using this bike for play, general duning, mx, trails, ect., or anything that requires decent bottom end power with user friendly riding characteristics, I think a stock cylinder +4 stroker is more than enough. You will save you $thousands of dollars, and you'll be happier in the end. A lot of the guys that have the setup that you guys are going for have a second banshee to do most of their typical riding just to have a good time.