Ducman

There is a GYT-R (made by Yamaha) CDI on e-bay for $183 shipped (price for buy it now) on e-bay, or a Dyna for $235 shipped. GYT-R will give you some ignition advance like the Dyna Cdi's so it is also a performance mod. There are many used cdi's for way cheaper than $175, probably like $40 shipped on e-bay. Or even look in the for sale section, there's probably one in there too for less.

I myself would be more likely to crash and break my neck from missing a shift rather than break my ankle from a crash. But I only ride recreationally, no MX racing. If you can't get the feel for stiff boots then there are boots that have some up down ankle movement but not side to side like Sidi's but they are a bit more expensive. I have 2 pair or sidi street boots, one for the street and one for dirt riding. They are soo comfortable you can wear them to the office all day like shoes, but they are pricy, and not quite as much protection as full on MX boots.

I'll pay $85 shipped for the right lower, or $150 shipped for both. If you have them to sell please PM me, as I'll be more likely to check my e-mail first. Will pay Paypal or M/O Thanks, Zack

I was mostly stock except for a Noss head with 20cc domes, foam filter with air box lid off and went from FMF Gnarlies to Rockets. I liked the Rockets better because the mid and top end was way better and reved out way higher, but it did loose some bottom. It was still torquey on bottom partly because of the cool head, it just goes into the band at a little higher RPM. It would and would have been a little better with some timing advance. I needed more top end because I ride sand too. If you have some wide open places to run, like to drag race, or big fast hill climbs, thats where the rockets will shine. If its all tight technical trails and you don't get above 3rd gear much then FMF or similar might be better. For a K&N and open air box lid a 320 main should be big enough. (I ran with a 310 W/ faom filter, lid off, and it was just a bit rich) Air box lid on and a 290 should work.

Most voice mails will go to the end of the message if you press 33. My boss used to pocket call me several times a day and I'd end up with 1/2 hours muffled messages practically every day cause the dip shit never locked his key pad.

Those are good comparisons. Its really hard to compare #'s from one dyno to another but if you put bikes on the same dyno back to back then you can compare apples to apples. I was pretty depressed about the #'s I got from my 4mm set-up because they were lower than I expected, got 60, was looking for at least 70. Plus nobbies, especially stock tires will eat a few HP and 1/4" of rubber, also a good dyno lesson I learned. The builder/ dyno operator/ owner said don't wory, we get guys that claim all kinds of HP #'s on a ported 350 motor, and then we put them on our dyno and there lucky if they get over 50 hp. One reason is because they use SAE reading rather than actual. He said that they get 43 HP every time they run a YFZ with a full system and open airbox when it is jetted optimum and its fairly hard to get them over 50 hp even with cams, piston, and porting. Even more pathetic is they get 29 HP out of a stock Z-400. The builders/ owners are a father son team. The dad has a Z-400 that is fully built but still 400cc that put out 45 HP on their dyno. He says it will spank piped YFZ's at the dunes bad, which makes them want to cry when they realize they've been wooped by a Z. But the sons +4mm banshee puts down 70 HP on their dyno with an MX type port, Dyna FS, 35mm carbs, LRD pipes. They say SAE is more consistant because for one thing their dyno is portable and the same bike will get way different #'s at different air temps, humidity, barometric pressure, ect. With SAE you will get much more repeatable results but it wont look as good. They bought the same dyno as LRD and were trained by LRD's owner.

I wasn't too impressed with FMF on my wifes blaster, except it was nice to have a built in spark arrestor. Barely passed sound DB check, borderline.

I would think one leaking carb would fill up both pipes.

You could do it that way, and it would gain a lot of low end torque, but your are much better off with 4mm stroker specific porting. You wouldn't be tapping into the huge potential HP gain. If you really want to know the result of 4mm stroking without correct porting ask a builder like passionre, he could probably tell you exactly what it would run like. You could alway get porting later I suppose, but why not do it right the first time? Heres what I wrote to the same question recently posted: (proplem#1) If you use the spacer plate your ports will be raised that amount too. Now you need to at least lower the botom of the ports a little to compensate for raising them. (problem#2) On the +4 stroker with cut domes the ports are still centerd where they were before but with the longer stroke, the flow in and out of the cylinders is going to be different because at the same RPM as the stock stroke crank, the piston speed past the ports will be faster (also true for spacer plate) so the port timing will be diferent. The ports are designed to flow for the stock stroke. Think of it as taking the intake and exhaust cam out of a raptor and putting it in a YFZ 450. It is similar and might work but it isn't as good as if the cam were disigned for the 450.

Running too low of octane to support the amount of compresion can result in preignition, pinging, run-on, and detonation. These symptoms are all related but different. High cylinder pressures create high temperature making the fuel want to ignite before the spark fires. More octane increases the temperatura at which the fuel will self ignite (flash point). If you are running pump fuel with 19cc domes, you may be experiencing run-on if your kill switch was working fine before. If you take your shee out for a romp you may get to hear some pinging followed by detonation. Pinging would sound like a couple of marbles boucing around inside your pipes.

If you call Vito's Racing they may be able to give you jetting advice for that carb. If you buy the 240 bigbore sleeve kit from Vitos they send it with #330 and #340 mains which is what they recommend, so if you can figure approximately what that converts to in your carbs main size. I had a 240 kit installed in my wifes blaster but it was only port matched to the bigger ports in the sleeve, not a custom port job so it only needed about #290 mains. It had FMF's and K&N no lid. Stock Blaster carb is the same size as a Banshee carb. You should be able to re-ring the piston if it is in good condition and still within clearance tolerance in the cylinder. You could also buy a new one from Vitos.

You'll need to update the port work for the 4mm stroker crank. You can use a spacer plate or get custom cut stroker domes, the port work will depend on which way you go; domes or plate. (795 series pistons offset the 5mm longer rod plate or domes account for the extra stroke) Stroker will add more low end torque if you get a port job similar to what you have now, or same low end you have now with a lot more top end if you port for more top end.

You'll probably be best at either 3rd or 4th clip. I'd try it both ways and see which way feels the best. If it feels more light switchy then its probably worse, if the band kicks in somewhat smoother and sooner then its better.

Damb, the choke tube strikes again! The only symptom that seems to be a sure tell sign is backfires out of the right side and runs like shit. Some say it bogs like its rich, some say it will start up and rev to the moon like an air leak. Its probably the easiet fix that causes people to lose the most time trouble shooting carbs.

Dumont is 700ft to 1200ft so if you were jetted perfect now for 0-1500ft then no changes are necessary.

Are they stock carbs bored to 28mm or aftermarket. An easy way to tell is aftermarket carbs will both have their own choke. If aftermarket, are they mikuni flat slides or round slides? You should be about a #30 pilot and for the mains somewhere in the 300 minimum to 380 maximum range. Pilots and main numbers for aftermarket mikunis will be similar to stock carbs. There are different styles of pilot jets and needle jets but most use the same main jets as stock carbs. The way the carb came stock, the needle may not be anywhere near the correct needle jet orafice. If its a flatslide TM carb, you may need to change the needle jet orafice but you should be able to get it to at least run (between 1/4 and 3/4) by lowering or raising the needle the carbs have now. The extra holes in the cylinder are probably added exhaust ports, usually refered to as a "tripple exhuast port job" or exhaust boost ports. Usually used in more of a top end power emphasis port job. I would start by making sure the carbs are in sync, then adjust airscrews in (since you said it would only idle with choke on) to richen up the idle maybe 0.5 to 1.5 turns out. (idle gets leaner as you turn airscrews out). Make sure both carbs have airscres adjusted evenly. Get the bike to start and idle good. (What the poing of going any further if you can't at least get the bike to start and stay running) Also make sure the main size is at least a 300, preferably about a 340. When you say its falling on its face when you give it throttle, I'm not sure if you are way to lean or too rich, but if its when you crack the throttle its probably the needle setting, and/or a combo of needle and pilot. If you get it to start and idle good W/o choke it may get better when you crack the throttle too. If you get it running good enough to ride, but your a little off on the needle, but it will run good WOT then you can get your mains somewhat dialed in. In the process of dialing in the mains you should get an idea if you are rich or lean on the needle. From experience dialing in my TM 34mm Mikunis (Flatslide), they came new with way too rich of a needle and pilot but I don't know what your 28mm's would come with. If they are flatslides, the needle jet orafice that worked good for me was a P-8, they came with a Q-2 (P-8 is 2 sizes smaller orafice,each size orafice is about equal to 3 clip positions or so) When I got the carbs and dropped my needle all the way down it was still way too rich with the Q-2, now it is good on the middle clip with the P-8. You might also call or e-mail Sudco.com, they sell mikuni carbs and pre-jet them so they are reddy to run on a particular aplication. You need to determine the model of Mikuni carbs you have first. From sudco website: Sudco can "Special Set" any Mikuni Carburetor for your particular application. Below is the information you will need to provide our Carburetor Techs so they can provide you with the correct carburetor and jetting, when you are purchasing a carburetor. 1. Carburetor Size (mm) 2. Type of carburetor (Clamp-on, Spigot Mount, Flange Mount, Flat-slide, etc.) 3. Application (Model, Year, Displacement) 4. Modifications to motorcycle (Explain) 5. Type of motorcycle use (Street, Road Race, Drag, Motocross, Enduro, etc.) 6. Type of fuel used 7. Climate Conditions (Altitude, etc.)

Trinity stage IV, supposed to be a somewhat mid to top endy pipe kind of like Toomy T-5. One cool thing about them is they are available in stainless so you can always repolish them and they will look brand new and wont rust. Kinda spendy though. Not many people on the HQ run Trinity.

At least it wasn't a stud in your cylinders when your were just trying to change domes. Sometimes its easy, sometimes the cards are stacked against you.

My cylinders usually just sit there? j/k I know what you ment.

Foam uni pods will help repel water much better than K&Ns due to the foam filter oil (K&N oil and outerwear doen't repel water nearly as well) as well and they only cost about $25 shipped. Plus the foam filters dust way better too. You can also pick up a stock box cheap.

Definitely get a couple hours on it so its good and broke in before doing any performance mods. Start mixing fuel at 32:1 with Yama 2R or apropriate ratio on other oil (typicaly 40:1). Get an airfilter W/ adapter plate, then remove the airbox lid, or just the snorkel. Removing the lid or snorkel will require slightly larger mains, about #230 or 240 for removing the lid (200-240 mains comes with a new banshee). Then aventually get some pipes and rejet again. Next do a cool head or milled stock head, ignition advance, lightened flywheel. Read the jetting FAQ (click here) because mods effecting air flow on the intake, exhaust and timing or temp. an elevation changes require jetting changes for optimum performance and so you don't get too lean and cook your top end. This will tell you everything you need to do it yourself. If you can find someody that will help the first time you will learn faster and not make mistakes.

Where in CA are you located? There are some good OHV parks on the Northern end of the Sacramento valley for trails. There is Sand Mountain NV about 4 hrs east of Sacramento for some huge steep wide open hill climbs. Pismo beach dunes on the central coast. Oregon has a bunch of really beautiful senic dunes on the coast. There are a lot of areas that are on BLM land or mountainous logging roads that you can go for long rides. If you go to any OHV park or do any riding other than sand you will need spark arrestors.

The boss intake has a crossover tube which surves basically the same purpose as the boost mottle. Boost bottle is more about throttle response, not HP output. Most say boost bottle making a difference in performance is a myth anyway.

Dang it, dopeman beat me to the rocket with the shark mouth. I was thinking of the old WWII corsair with the shark mouth except on a rocket.

If you were to just use a +4mm crank you would still need a 2mm spacer plate under the cylinders or elso the pistons will go 2mm beyond the top of the cylinders. The alternative is to have 2mm of relief cut into the domes to let the pistons go into the head. {The 795 series pistons just offset the 5mm extra length in the typical long rod (+5mm rod).} (proplem#1) If you use the spacer plate your ports will be raised that amount too. Now you need to at least lower the botom of the ports a little to compensate for raising them. (problem#2) On the +4 stroker with cut domes the ports are still centerd where they were before but with the longer stroke, the flow in and out of the cylinders is going to be different because at the same RPM as the stock stroke crank, the piston speed past the ports will be faster (also true for spacer plate) so the port timing will be diferent. The ports are designed to flow for the stock stroke. Think of it as taking the intake and exhaust cam out of a raptor and putting it in a YFZ 450. It is similar and might work but it isn't as good as if the cam were disigned for the 450.