Ducman

GYTR has a different ignition curce that advances timing about +3 kind of like the Dyna FS except the GYTR only has one curve and the Dyna has 4 (top end, torque, all around, and stock) They do add power and are probably slightly better than just advancing the stock ignition but advancing the stock ignition is much cheaper.

There are a lot of creek bottoms in the Northern CA Sacramento Valley that dry up after about June that lots of people used to ride in. Then you get all the enviro Nazi city slickers moving out of the S.F. bay area buying up all the property to retire and they get their panties all in a bunch if there are motorcycles in the creek even though it is unuseable land and no dammage is being done, and it notdisturbing anyones peace and quite. They just take it upon themselfes to put an end to an unofficial riding area that has been beninely used by a small number of locals since dirtbikes were invented. 90% of the riders are just kids that need something recrational to do after school or in the summer. I can understand not riding on someones front yard, or aggricultural investments like orchards and messing up fences, but some people just want to be an asshole just because they can. There are some good legal riding areas close to me but not as fun as the wide open creek areas especially when I can go hit it out of my back yard for 15 min on any given day. Fortuneatly it is rural enough in my area that there are still some places around that have not been assimilated but I'm sure one day it will. I hope that all those people who disagree with these statements have some rich fucker move in next door and build a house so big that is bocks out the sun and you cant afford to move and theres noting you can do about it so then you will know how it feels.

Pardon me, but would you mind if I pass the brown poupon.

When my shee sence stops tingeling as much then I know its time to change, but this last time it wasn't just a percieved loss. It was slight, but a noticeable difference. I have ran the B8ES and haven't noticed any difference over the BR8ES.

For some reason the electrical problem that comes to mind is that maybe the flywheel is rubbing on the wires going into the stator which could explain why it ran and now it doesn't if thats what happend. If you kicked a banshee or any 2 stroke enough times (300 might do it) it would pull in enough fuel to aventually fill the pipes with fuel which will look dark and oily due to all the suit build up and burnt oil in the pipes. Make sure its still getting spark and the electrical is good, you may have to keep putting in new plugs if they get to wet and oil foulded to spark good. If the motor has had a couple heat cycles on it so you can take it for a drive and you do get it running, reving it a little while driving it under some load should help clear it out. If it was running on one side only it would also spit fuel into the side that wasn't running. He should have been able to tell if it was only running on one side. If it was that case I would say bad coil maybe.

What J.J. said. I had just a tiny bit of oil leak out of my FMF's with no pipe seals or silicon sealant. Check out chosenperformance.com about page #6 of the banshee parts for their pipe seals. Pipe seals are not necessary but the ones by chosen look soo damb good. Try no to look directly at their swing arms or you may involentaritly discharge your wallet contents.

Pretty friggin simple to figure it out if they have a wider power band that comes on earlier and has pretty good top end and the pipes are more suited to making power on a stock motor than rockets. I would classify a pipe with a powerband that is more useable in most situations on a stock motor as a better all around pipe for most people. Parden the pun, but its not rocket science! May be I should erase my oiriginal post, eat some paste, lick some short bus windows and just say, duhhh errrr durrr... Rockets all the way man! Oh, look at the shit stir. Umkay, Now with that said, I will now contradict myself and say that I thought Rocekets were pretty good on a stock motor. Not as good all around as my FMF's but I mainly like the banshee for the thrill of the top end power and speed so I was willing to trade bottom end for as good of top end as I could get. Iif you plan to get some porting in the near future and your TR-6's still look new, it may be a good time to e-bay them, get more money out of them now to put towards Rockets. That's what I did with my FMF's. If you don't have any porting plans in the near future, then stick with the TR-6's unless you got money to burn.

I'm going to predict that the LRD's will pull way higher RPM's than the PT's. The builder I mentioned that is local to me (Looney Tooners) runs LRD and his banshee is insanely bad ass. He had a 4mm stroker and now is back to a 350. Both motors were 70+ Hp SAE and from what I can tell their dyno is pretty stingy on handing out big numbers. I'd be willing to be his bike might hit 80+Hp on other dyno's that are callibrated to read actual HP in stead of SAE HP. Anyway, I know they will support a pretty hot built motor. He's also running 38mm Kehins and his throttle response is friggin unbelievable. He said the power is very useable power down low all the way to top which is evident on the dyno sheet he's shown me of his 4mm motor a wile back. If I were able to try out any set of pipes right now on my shee just for shits and giggles, I would like to try a set of CPI's and LRD's. In fact I want to get a set of cylinders ported by this guy for my 4mm set up and try them out, but I dont know his porting willl work as well with Rockets. The only thing I'm not sure about on the LRD's is if they have or if you can even attach a spark arrestor due to the long turned down tips on the silencer and I sometimes ride in areas that require them.

jjfizzle51, you keep saying 84 octane but do you really mean 94? I have never heard of 84 octane pump fuel in the US. Most states either have 91 (West coast) and 93 (East coast) for premium pump fuel and 87 is the min octane available. 94 octane premium is available in some cities but rare. Anyway, sice you are running at a higher evation, it would be best if you would measure your compression and use that as a guide to determine your octane. As said previosly 160 psi or less should be fine on premium pump fuel. According to the compression table on the NOSS machine web site if you interpolate to get compression at 4500 ft, 19cc domes should be at 145 psi on a typical stock port motor. At 145 psi you should be fine running 91 or 93 octane even with +3 or 4 ignition advance, but I would measure the compression to make sure you are going to be safe. Also make sure that you know your elevation and don't go riding in an area below 3000ft (which would put you at approx 160psi with 19cc domes), if you do mix in some race fuel 50/50 and you'll be safe. Also make sure you are not jetted lean, if you are at the maximum cylinder pressure which your fuel can support a lean condition can cause detonation. Also remember the cylinder pressure table is for typical conditions, if the air is very very cold and dry cylinder pressure will be higher.

I was at the OR dunes this last weekend and my BR8eix plugs with about 40+ hours on them went bad. She started breaking up ever so slightly on top and just lost a little pep. I threw in a new set of BR8ES and it ran perfectly again. Its like you dont really notice that its lost its pep untell you put the new plugs in. I guess I spoke too soon when I said the BR8EIX would last forever. The plugs still looked perfect, no electrode or strap deteriation, nice medium brown on the porcelin and strap (not even remotely fouled), very little carbon buildup. I have noticed the same results with BR8ES and they seem to go a little faster. When the motor was stock ports, carbs, and ignition the plugs seamed to last forever, but I may have changed them more regularly and not noticed due to adding a little mod here and there and doing more plug checks. Could this be due to running leaded race fuel, or just running it at WOT freequently and for several seconds at a time due to agressive dune riding? Static compression is only 145psi but it has pretty tall exhaust ports (tripple exhaust port). Just curious if it is just common to wear out spark plugs a lot faster with built motors. I know way back when I had a Husky 510 it had these long skinny ass plugs and would go through spark plugs at about this rate. They too looked fine but would just be worn out and run crappy. Maybe its just the electrode has built up resistance from hight temps, heat cycles and a lot of juice passing through them? Is this typical?

927 at 40:1, thinking about going to amsoil 100:1

I dont think pods result in a very significant power increase over a K&N in the stock air box, probably only cause you to jet up one main size, 2 at most. I wouldn't do it just for a performance increase if I already had a K&N in the box. I and most people run them because it makes installing and working on big carbs much easier, or if you only plan to run in the sand. K&N pods with outerwear work very well for me in the sand, filters and outerwear stay clean enough to run for several days, no fine particals or dirt residue ever detected on the slides. Sand sticks to any oiled surface like a mofo and the nylon outerwears prevent this. I run uni pods in the dirt. I have ran them is snow and a puddles with a little mud, and very dusty conditions with no issues. No deep water (over 1 ft deep) crossings. The best thing about the air box is that even with the lid off is that is reduces the amount of filter maintenance by quite a bit and the ability to run in water that is about as deep as the bottom of the cylinders with no issues.

A bulder that is local to me uses the LRD pipes. He's making 70+ HP on a 350 motor and has amasing power all the way from low end all the way to the top. They are a good all around pipe. I would say they would run about like a Toomey TR6 on a stock motor except they work well with porting also.

I had 2 600's, the CBR got 35-45, the ZX6 got 30-40, both were from 300-400 for liability, My 996 gets 50+ and full coverage is $400/year, no accidents, no points, and 10+ years experience and no lapse in insurance coverage for 10+ years but I have had to shop around a lot. Currant insurance is through GMAC. You can finance a new GSXR or ZX_-R through the dealer with liability only. So far I have never dropped a bike that was dammaged enough to make it worth filing a claim with insurance. They would jack up rates to get their money back so if dammage is under $2K you may as well fix it yourself. Although, if you total it, your F***ed. I don't think you can get loans through the dealer for crotch rockets and not get full coverage unless you get the ones I mentioned above, at least not CA that I have heard of.

Zip tie? or get some stock clamps from the dealer. I hated the tight fit with that setup, so I went to pods.

.030 and squish and crank will be fine, above about .035 and the squish needs to be recut or you will get into squish clearance issues ( piston edges will contact the domes if they get carbon buildup, or too little squish clearance can also cause detonation)

I think you need the RZ wiring harness. I'm currently looking into running RZ cylinders and you need the wiring harness, CDI, PV servo, servo controller, and a couple more things just to run the cylinders.

I'd give the repo bitch the frame and tell them it was a POS when you bought it from him so you parted it out, say here's whats left, its all yours fockers! Park it at a friends or relatives that you dont go to very often for a couple monthes. If they still come at you then part it out and have a good friend e-bay the stuff for you. The more legal alternative is to give the bike to the repo bitch and sue the guy you bought it from, unfortunately if he is down and out you'll never see a dime, thats why if it were me I'd do it the first way. Be careful and CYA!

Talked with the local builder today, he said he could get me an aftermarket light weight flywheel for somewhere between $120 - $150. Thats the route I'm probably going to go.

I have ran the BR8EIX for about 40 hours now and they are definitely a long lasting plug that stays clean and run consistant. They do put on color very slow as others have mentioned. I think they run slightly better, a little crisper and good starups when the motor is cold probably similar to how it would run when you install a brand new BR8ES.

If its 1mm over you dont need to do anything to the head, only if you install big bore Big bore sleeve and pistons. The hot rod crank comes ready to drop in. I think you have to request that it be welded when you order it, not sure on that one.

Yup, usually only fuels 104 and over are leaded.

Sweet deal. Almost 1/2 price of what I paid, $8K OTD for a new 04' LTD that I bought for the wifey in CA. CA has sales tax and BS fees that jack up the OTD price a bit. Make sure it has had the first maintenance, oil, filter, and valve adjust.

The stock air filter cannot be separated from the plastic cage. The uni filters are stiff enough that they do no need a cage to hold their shape but you do need the air box adapter flange for it to clamp on to, or at least thats how the one I had worked, the adapter came with the filter in a kit. You can buy one from Uni if you don't already have one.

I haven't read a hole lot of other posts about puking a little coolant right after the radiator and overflow are topped off but that has been mine experience ever since shee was new till now. Usually it pukes once or twice when it first gets real hot from a hard workout after you fill the radiator and you sit for a second at idle or shut if of it pukes out a fair amount of fluid from the breather vent tube. After it does this once or twice it doesn't seem to do it anymore. I'm not sure how well you can compare a 4 stroke to 2 on operating temp, but I have seen the temps as high as 220 on my ducati on a hot summer day stuck in traffic.