64xracer

I have a set of 34pj's set up for gas I would trade ya straight up.

Well that was a good waste of an hour!!! LOL Beat the game though.

I had some trouble with Dan's domes when I had my 70mm motor, he made them too big and my compression was like 150 or so, I sent them back and he cut me some new ones for free.

Check it out!! http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZbweinhold64

Check this out!!!

Pm sent to CFM

Yep, thats the same thing that happened to me only it was LS Oklahoma so not as far of a walk!!

Anybody have a set of stock cyl's with big bore sleeves installed?? They have to be unported or ported for a 4mill stroke. I bought a set on here a few years ago for $150 but I ported them for a stock stroke so they won't work. Let me know. Thanks, Brian

You will not lose any displacement due to porting...as long as the bore and stroke stay the same the displacement will to. You will however lose compression.

Throw the 0-rings away and just put it together without them, they are just clutch cusions. I think the screws are torqued to 86inlbs but not for sure.

I have a set of 34 mm PJ's for sale. They ran great on my 4 mill bike, I just went to bigger carbs. Then are clean and ready to be shipped....$200

Don't forget to put the sharks teeth on it...like the some of the P-40's had!!!

I run VP racing 2 stroke oil (C2) in my fuel and VP racing tranny oil in the trans.

A little trick my high dollar lawyer told me when I was younger and in your situation...He said I can tell you not to drink and drive and its just gonna go in one ear and out the other so this is what you do....Always keep a sealed pint of whiskey in your vehicle at all times, if you get pulled over shut the vehical off grab your bottle get out and down it. The cop can not prove that you were drunk while you were driving because you drank after you drove so no DUI but you may get public intoxication or some other small charge. Get a good attorney and Good luck!!

try powersportspro.com or jeff at FAST

I did forget to mention that they are bored stock carbs (28mm) I took starting fluid and sprayed around the carb boots to check for leaks and nothing there. The shee that has 410's has been running that way for 3 years without any problems...well except when it gets to 100 degrees or more then we lean it down a bit. The plug chop looks excellent, and yeah I am doing it correctly. Warm engine on old plugs, put in new plugs, wot till 6th, kill engine and coast to a stop, change out plugs with old ones and the cut away on the plugs. Nice choc brown ring. I wonder why these 3 shee's have such big mains? Any ideas? Just a thought...bored stock carbs need bigger jets because signal is'nt as good as when it was stock so you have to put a bigger jet in to compensate for it. I don't know what do ya think?

No air leaks, carbs are clean. I have 3 shees in my shop right now all pretty much set up the same, one has 410 mains and runs perfect, another has 370's and the last one with 380's. All have K&N pod filters, ported to 190 ex and 126.8 transfers, +4 timing, and t-5 pipes. The only difference is the compression between them. Temp is 55 and elevation is 1500 or so.

Well I had it running good with 380 mains and the plug chop looked to be a little lean so I installed 390's and it would not idle as well and had a hell of a bog off idle to half. From half to WOT it was great. So I tried moving the needle...top, middle, bottom...no difference same with the air screw. I took the carbs completely apart and cleaned them 3 times, I even switched to a different set of clean carbs with same jetting, I just could'nt figure it out so I put the 380's back in and now it runs awesome again..?? WTF

Just a quick question...if you were way too rich on the main jet could that make it run bad from idle to half too?

Your bore is either out of round or you have a bent rod. Take cyl's to a machine shop and have them check them. A slightly bent rod could do the same thing by putting more side pressure on the piston.

A little tip to putting them in...get you a flat piece of aluiminum or steel that is at least .250 thick and is big enough to cover the whole jugs deck. Take an old head gasket and transfer the bolt holes onto your plate. Now drill the hole were you want to put the heli-coil in the right size for tapping with the heli-coil tap, and the others just a little bigger then the O.D. of the stud, use a drill press or a mill if ya got one, what ever you use make sure the holes you drill are straight. Then tap the bolt hole and chamfer it. Now you have a plate that you can bolt on your cyl and insures that you tap the cyl stud hole 90 degress from the deck. All you have to do is run the tap through the plate till it starts in the cyl, and tap away, use wd-40 for lube, it works well with aluiminum. Good luck

Could be your shift shaft. My shee did that a couple years ago when I was at the dunes, only mine stuck at 3rd, you could go up to 6th but not below 3rd. Cheep and easy to replace.

Ok I just ordered a set of haulers today so I don't need them anymore. I am still looking for a set of front shocks though, aftermarket or stock yfz450's. I will sell all four carbs together for $350 shipped. Or $200 shipped a set. Also have a stock airbox with K&N filter, stock set of a-arms with tie rods, stock exhaust (like anybody wants it), black factory seat cover, and a whole bunch of imca modified racing parts if anybody is interested.

You can get a good hard center punch and chip away at the extractor. The best bet is to tig weld a nut onto the broken extractor and unscrew it. Put a little heat on the outside of the boss and use WD-40 or bee's wax after you take the heat off. It should come out. If you can not get it or don't think you can, find a machine shop in your area and they will get it out. EDM is the best way, but that is not a home fix it yourself deal.

Take 66.5 times .03937...that is 2.618. Then take 2.618 times .004 and that is how much ring gap you should have .01047. .011 is fine....run it!!!