64xracer

I had to cut 3 coils off of the idle screw springs to make them go in far enough to idle. your shee will probaly take smaller mains then mine cause I have pod filters.

I am running pretty much the same set-up. I have 55 pilots in right now and they are just a little rich. gonna put in 50 or 52's and give them a try. My shee idles with the 55's though. I also have a 168 main...plug chop shows it to be a little rich but I'm not that far off maybe 1 or 2 sizes. Cel needle in center runs the best so far. The temp here is 40 @1450ft

To find inches from mm times by .03937 To find mm from inches divide by .03937

I had this same problem with a buddys shee the other night.... make sure that the slides are in the right carbs!!!! The slide with 2 slots goes in the carb with the choke knob(left side) the slide with one slot goes in the other(right side).

I have two sets of 34pj's (4 carbs total) I need a set of 10 paddle haulers (10 inch rim) and a set of aftermarket front shocks, or yfz 450 shocks. Let me know whatcha got!!

Pm sent

Cylinders $350 Pistons $150 Domes $100 Crank $250

I have a big bore setup for sale. Cylinders are 70mm fresh bore, ported to 190 deg on ex and 126.8 on transfers with a stock stroke. Crank is stock but was just rebuilt by passion and trued/ welded. Domes are custom cut patriot racing big bore. pistons are forged WSM. I put all of these parts on my banshee about a month and a half ago and I have only been to the dunes once with it. It runs really strong pulls like a mother on top. I work in a machine shop and I put the torque plate on the cyls and honed them just enough to get the glaze off, the originaly had .0035 clearance now they have .004. I also have a set of chrome Toomey T-5s I might sell if I can find a set of chrome inframe cpis. I am selling all of this because I got a hell of a deal on a +4 setup and I don't need another top end liying around. All of the parts are cleaned up and ready for installation. Make me an offer

I was there, the bar kicked my ass saturday night too. I was the drunken idiot singing on the trailer. We stayed in the sandrat and had a 26ft white stock trailer and we were on top of it hoop'n and holler'n and drinking beer all day saturday. I got two whole cameras full of titty shots!! Drank alot of beer, seen alot of naked females and one of the guys in our group got arrested for showing off his cock right in front of the park ranger (we ran out of beads and he was getting us more) The bad part is they were gonna let him go untill he started running his mouth, yeah he's a dumbass, we picked him up in Alva on the way home. But it was by far the best time I have ever had at the dunes!!!

We are leaving tomorrow after work, should get there by 8 or 9, depends on how much beer we drink on the way!! We will have a Blue 1996 ford F-250 4X4 ext cab pulling a white 26ft cattle trailer (the RV!!!) My shee is blue and white with sand sharks on back (unless I get some haulers) and sand stars up front. I'll put duct tape just under my flag so see ya all there!!!!!

made my own out of a soild piece of T-6 aluiminum

ok I finally got it running and jetted!!! Shee really pulls!! I can't wait till I hit the sand, only 3 more days!! I ended up with a 152 main, 55 pilot, 1.5 turns out on air screw, 8 turns out on choke, needle clip is in the second groove from the top. It starts fist kick everytime and idles perfect. The needle position is what made it idle the best, when I tried it before I had the needle in the 4th groove. I do have a little problem though, when it is warmed up, at idle the right side does'nt fire all the time, when you hit the gas it runs fine. the carbs are the same at the top at WOT, they move the same off idle, they are clean, I switched the carbs and reeds, I checked the stator air gap, checked compression, checked for air leaks, switched the plug wires, changed the plugs and it still does it. If I pull up on only the right carb cable it starts fireing. I tried giving the right side more/less fuel and tried screwing the air screw in and out but no change. It use to do this once in a while when I had the stock carbs and cylinders on it, but now it pretty much does it all the time. Any other ideas??? Could one side of my flywheel be bad? CDI? Stator? I am probaly just going to leave it alone for this trip to LS but I am going back for snake hunt so I'll have time to order parts and get them installed if need be. Thanks again for all the help!!!

Stock stroke is 54mm (2.12598) stock bore is 64mm (2.51968) To convert mm to inches multipy by .03937 So 64mm X .03937 = 2.51968

We sell it at the place I work and its also what I run in my shee and racecar. The fuel will stay fresh as long as you keep it sealed up in the drum in your garage. We have had some C-21 in our fuel shed for 5 years and it still tests like the day we got it in. It will also stay fresh if you keep it sealed in your shop in a vp-racing fuel jug , but you should buy a jug that is dark in color, I like the blue jugs. The lighter the color the more sunlight gets into the jug causing the fuel to go bad over time. So stay away from the white jugs. Hope this helps

Well I took the carb, reeds and the pipe off the right side and put a pressure tester on the radaitor and shined a light in both sides and sure enough there is a small leak on the intake side. So I pulled it apart and am gonna take it to work tomorrow and fix it, tig welder time!! At least I found my smoking problem. I should be putting it together tomorrow night and then I can deal with getting it jetted. Last night I had a guy help me with it and we got it to idle and run the best with the 55 pilot and the needle all the way down (clip all the way to the top) air screw was 2 turns out. But the small amount of water it was burning probaly effected the jetting so I will have to start all over. Thanks for all the help, Brian

sent you a pm

The rod length has nothing to do with the stroke. The crankshaft is where you get your stroke. Stroke is measured from BDC to TDC. Rod length is how long the rod is from center of the big end to center of small end. The way you tell what piston you need is by the compression height. Compression height is measured from center of wrist pin to top of piston. To figure it you need the deck height of the block, the rod length, and the stroke of the crank. Since I don't know all of those specs for a banshee I will use a small block chevy for an example.....Deck height is 9", rod length is 5.7", stroke is 3.48" you take the stroke and divide by 2 = 1.74 + rod length 5.7 = 7.44. Then you take your deck height 9, and subtract the 7.44, and you get 1.560" and that is the compression height of the piston that you need to get.

Well I might have mislead you, It is 40deg tonight with the 55 in and last night it was 53deg with the 45 pilot. I need to try it on the same day to get it right. But will 13 deg make that much difference?? Am I going to be battleing this when ever the temp changes?? does anybody make a jet set that has all the sizes of main and pilots in it?? If so, who and how much.

I thought about a crank seal too but wouldn't that make it smoke out of both pipes?? I had the entire engine apart and put in new seals...I guess its possible I instaled them incorrectly it was my first time. I put them in just like the old ones came out and lubed everything up with 2-stroke oil. It is about 40 degrees here . It did idle better with the 45 pilots, at least when you get it good and warm it would idle for a min or so before dieing, with the 55 it would die imedently when I took my thumb off.

well I went to a 150 main and a 55 pilot and it pulls alot harder but it still won't idle. I started with the air screw 1.5 turns out and went both ways and no change. I adjusted the choke knobs from 5 turns out to 8.5 turns out...no change. When I pull the knobs out it dies. If I hold the throdle open just a little it idles fine and has pretty good response, no dead spot. It does have a little hesitation when I am riding it and idleing and go to WOT. The right side still runs richer than the left, still smoking really bad out the right side pipe, but not all the time. I sprayed carb cleaner all around the carbs and reeds but no air leaks. What next?? Go to a bigger pilot?? The main jet I think is pretty close.

when my shee had your combo I run 380 mains at 1600ft in 50-60 degree weather

I just got my shee back together and I did alot of mods. welded crank, Dual 34pj carbs with dual K&N's, 70mm bore, stock stroke, ported to 190 on ex and 126.8 on transfers, T-5 pipes, V-force reeds, 1/2" reed spacers, billet intake, cool head with custom domes. My question is, after running it for 10 min it started smoking out of the right side pipe real bad. If I rev her up it still smokes. I let it cool down and checked compression and they were the same 150. I started it back up and it smoked for a little bit then quit. I rode it for a 10 min and it started smoking again. I started out with 175 mains and 55 pilot and it was really rich everywhere so I switched to 155 mains and 45 pilots, plugs still look rich and I opened her up and it has a hell of a flat spot in 5th gear about half way. It pulls hard everywhere else. I don't have alot of experence with the 34 pj carbs but it does'nt idle very good either. I have the choke knobs at 7.5 turns out an 1.5 on the air screw. I can't tell any difference when I screw the air bleed in or out at all. I took the carbs apart and cleaned them up but still no difference.

I just got a set of 34pj's and just wanted to look at somebody elses to see if there was a better way to run the fuel lines and stuff. Also I am running dual K&N pods and was wondering about clearance, on each side of the frame, where the filters set, there is a little pin welded to the frame. I think it is for the stock exhaust to mount to but not sure. I was gonna just cut them off to make clearance for the filters.

I work at a machine shop where we only build race car engines, sprint car, dragster, stock car.... We only run forged pistons. Yes forged pistons do expand a little more but if its honed right with a torque plate, with the right clearance on them they will run a very long time. When I first got my banshee I built my own torque plate and honed the cylinders to 64.5mm. I bought a set of wisceo pro-lites and I have ran it for about 100 hrs and have only lost 5psi in both cylinders, when I took it apart the cylinders onlyhad .001wear. I just checked the weight of my 64mm OEM piston with no rings, no carbon, and no wrist pin ..... 187.6 grams, stock wrist pin is 45g. 64.5mm wisceo pro-lite is 185.6g wrist pin is 41.5g. So when I went from a smaller cast piston to a bigger forged piston I lost 5.5 grams. Not alot of difference in weight in that small of piston. But it is lighter.

My shee kinda starts hard when its cold too. I have found that if you turn the gas on and let it sit for a min or 2, pull the choke out and don't touch the throdle and it will start in a kick or two. I have always had 4-strokes and was used to giving it a little gas to start it but I have learned that you don't do that with my shee or you will be kicking it about 10 times. I don't know if that is how they all are but it works for me