64xracer

A friend of mine just bought a buggy, volkswagon powered, and was wondering where to get parts??? Also, does any body know where there is a forum like this for buggys????

I don't know about the pro flow on a banshee, I have individual K&N's, but I instaled one on a kfx400. I had to grind the plastic ribs off the air box to make it fit on there flat. But the problem was, and you need to look on your banshee airbox, is that when you bolt the aluiminum adapter on, the foam o-ring on the back puts too much pressure on the plastic box and causes the airbox to bend out between the bolts, causeing a air leak. What I did to fix this is, I cut a piece of 1/8" flat iron the same size as the adapter, drilled four holes in the corners for the bolt holes and then I chucked it up in the lathe and bored out the center to the size of the backside of the box. If you don't have a lathe, a holesaw and a die grinder works too. Then I threw the foam o-ring away and siliconed the adapter to the box and instaled the 1/8" flat on the backside and bolted it all together. Now the box is sealed and will never have a air leak. Hope this helps

I ordered my parts today. The price for the drive axle $50.99, is wrong. It is $88.00. But it was still cheaper than my dealer!!!

Yeah I took mine off about a year ago when I installed boysen power reeds and I have'nt had any problems reeds still look good. Not gonna use them anymore cause I scored a set of v-force off of e-bay for $50!!!!

I did'nt have any problems with it (that I knew of) oil was always changed after every ride and I never did see any chunks of metal or anything unusal, it has never kicked back on me anyways I bought the machine in 2002 and it was all stock, it did'nt have much time on it, I took the top end off right after I bought it and honed it out to 64.5mm but it did'nt need it. I work in a machine shop and I made a torque plate and just had to try it out. I tore it all the way down this time to put some different cylinders on that I have been working on and I wanted to replace the crank berings and check for other wear. Glad I did!!!! Mabe it happened before I owned it.

The shaft I am talking about is #16 in the pic, and it is bent on the left end.

I tore down my shee today and everything looked good except that the drive axle in the tranny (the shaft that has the front chain sproket on it) was bent. It is only bent at the very end where the starter idler gear goes. I first noticed it when the idler gear had alot of slop in it, and when I turned the shaft, I saw why. Has anybody had this happen??? I put the shaft in my lathe and put a dial indicator on it and it is straight untill the second snap ring groove (about a inch in). It is .031 out of round at the end of the shaft. How did this happen?? Do I order a new shaft and gear from yamaha, or is there some stronger parts on the market??

I have a set of 22cc domes for sale if anyone is interested, they ran for about 2 hrs. Mint condition, I have cleaned them up and they are ready to go. $40 shipped.

What is the best impeller??? Pro design??

there is probaly only a $32 mark up

When I bought my shee it was all stock. I looked around on ebay and bought a set of T5's for $130 and put them on. That was the "Best bang for the buck" for me. Since then I have put about $5000 in it.....and I'm not done yet!!!!

I have decided to build my own billet intakes, and after a picture search of various websites, I have seen some intakes that use a balance tube or boost bottle, and some that are just two seperate intakes with nothing connecting the two. What would be wrong with not running one at all?? I had a thought that running the tube would give you a better bottom end, and act the same as not having one in the upper rpms. Just a thought of mine, could be wrong.

I am getting ready to do some work on my shee, and I was wondering, what size of mains to start out with, on a banshee that is 70mm bore, stock stroke, ported, with Keihin 34 pj carbs and twin K&N clamp ons. I am going to be running T-5's when I get it all back together. Elevation is 1600. Thanks

anybody???

I've got a set of almost brand new pro design 21cc domes that will fit a noss head, they were one for about 1 or 2 hours, then I put my 18's in..... $35 shipped Pm me if interested

I am in need of a set of banshee intake manifolds for 34pj carbs. Also, will my stock cable work or do I need to buy a new one?? Where do I get the right one??? Thanks

I was just wondering if anybody has used WSM pistons, I have always used wiseco but I will be needing 70mm and they don't offer any. WSM is the only one I have found so far. Anybody had good/bad luck?????

What size of domes should I get for a 68mm bore, stock stroke, to have around 175 psi?? It has 172psi now with 18cc domes, 64.5mm bore, and stock stroke at 1600 ft.

Octane is NOT a measure of how "hot" a fuel burns. Octane is the resistanse to burn. The higher the octane number, the more it resists to burn. If you raise the compression over stock you need to run a higher octane fuel because you have higher cylinder pressure and the 90 octane fuel will preignite causing detonation. (very bad) If you run a fuel that has a higher octane number than what you need you will just be hurting your HP numbers. Sometimes Dirtwheels does'nt know shit!!! If you really want to know what fuel to run call your local VP-Racing fuel dealer or visit www.vpracingfuels.com

I got a 1979 honda cb650 I will give you!!!! LOL Runs, clean title...come and pick er up!!!

looking for a set of banshee cylinders, does'nt matter what kind of shape they are in as long as they are able to be resleeved with big bore sleeves

I was just wondering if any of the performance shops offer torque plate honing to banshee cylinders?? I work in a machine shop and thats how we hone all our race blocks. I am working on building a set so I can hone my jugs.

pm me a price too!!