97redshee

sounds like someone keeps getting beat by banshee's and is gettin all butt hurt.

wtf are you talkin about 74 hp?i hope that was a joke.i seen them make 34-36rwhp on my builders dyno.

get a noss,cool head or what ever and have a set of domes cut for your motor.

whats done to your bike?

shouldnt make a diff.they both fire at the same time.

bad crank seal on that side of the motor.

i run 190 psi and run vp c-12.

i got a 4mm and i have 190 psi.built it this way cause it gives the buike a lil better botom end.im a fat ass so i neded more power down low to get me movin.

those 34mm pj's are a waste unless that thing is fully drag ported.im not that sure on the jettinfg im at sea level and have a 4mm stroker dune ported with same carbs and i run 148 main 55 pilot needle 5th clip.i make 77rwhp and 43 ft lbs.

bansheeboy where is your turf?ill run yah on my lil 4mm.

my 4 mm duner port cpi inframes did this.my builder has had bikes from another shop with dyno sheets that read 90+ rwhp and on his they make mid 70's.

22-11-8 8 paddle ultralite haulers.not extreme/kevlar paddles.

5m long rod 4m stroker.do this but dont get a hotrods crank.i had the welds break on mine.im makin 77rwhp and 43 ft lbs on new style dynojet.dont get any portwork until you decide what you are gonna do.porting for a stock stroke wont be optimum for a 4mm motor.

the 8's give you more floatation and when aired down you get more contact on the surface of the sand.

im just keepin it.aint worth sellin and startin over anyways.

im in san jose ca.

i'll take $6000.00 and no less.got $3200.00 in just gettin the motor built.

pic of bike

97 red full bore banshee ,4 mm stroker,welded and trued crank,34 mm pj's, pro design timing plate+7,cool head custom domes,v force reeds,upp intakes,duner port,cpi inframes,+6 chrome swingarm,rad dual row carrier,+2 +1 leager arms,+4 durablue eliminator axle,works dual rate remote rezzy front shocks,rear ohlins ,new coil,ricky stator 200 watt stator,eye ball light covers,new seat cover,k&n pod filters,pro taper bars.bike makes 77 rwhp and 43 ft lbs.motor has 4-5 hrs on it.3rd over bore.also has lots of billet.only has sand tires.have bumpers,skid plates,swing arm skidplate,extra +5 extended stock arm.asking $7000.00 obo.or trade for yfz or trx 450 r.

noss,do you make a billet anodized blue head? will pro design domes work?

with the shearers you are gonna be makin peak power around 10,000rpm with a drag port

http://www.planetsand.com/memberphotos/141508-4mil.jpg this is my dyno sheet.

i have a 4mm with duner port.mine made less power with the shearer by like 3 hp and the curve wasnt as good.the torque was a lil less with the sheare also.my builder said sometimes the shearer are a lil better and sometimes the cpi's are a lil better.but are ussually within a few hp of each other.

i would never ever run that single carb set up.the stock 26mm carbs are fine.gauranteed you will lose power with the single verses the stocks.if you run a low-mid pipe you will be fine.use the single carb money for a mx port job and you will be way happier.i would say mx port,any low mid pipe,razr's,noss head.with this you will destroy your friends.i ride my 77rwhp dune bike in the trails and all though the power is like a light switch i can chug up steep ass hilss off the pipe in 3rd.and if there is a strait is is over.off corners i short shift and can still keep up with my friends raptors,yfz's ,and 400ex's.

heres the best advice.don't do it.i did and came close to dyein 3 or 4 times.